An example of enamelling

Jewellery fascinates everybody, especially if it’s painted! Through the ages, man has tried his hand at moulding metals, giving them textures and colour to add to their uniqueness.

One of the most popular, dignified and sophisticated ways of adding an extra dimension to jewellery has been enamelling. It’s been popular in the West as gorgeous vintage jewellery. Indian heritage jewellery has seen its rise in the East, too.

Enamelling or minakari is a decorative technique in which a glass “paste” is applied to the surface of a metal. This glass composition adheres to the metal through fusion under very high temperatures.

It’s a process that can be mastered by trial and error but requires one to study the chemical properties of these powders and the metals carefully.

As an enamel artist, you can paint the surface of a jewel with crushed glass and, through repeated applications and firings, create wonderful miniature works of art. There are different types of enamelling. Most can be mastered by trial and error but only after some training. Here are some styles:

Cloisonne: The oldest method, in which a thin metal work is fashioned on the base metal. Crushed colour powder is then put between the wire compartments and heated for the colour to spread and stay.

Guilloche: Circular patterns are engraved and colour collects on the engraved lines.

Plique-a-jour: The most beautiful and difficult style, this involves the creation of a lattice-like structure with metal wires without any metal backing. One can understand why it is so tricky!

Camaieu: White enamel is spread over the metal and then a mildly-coloured enamel is poured over it in places to create highlights.

Champleve or raised plain: A technique in which enamel is inlaid into depressions in the metal, leaving metal exposed. The depressions are typically made by an etching process.

Limoges: Different enamel colours are put next to each other without the separation of wire or surface metal.

Stencilling: A design is cut into a material, and the enamelling is done on it.

Care: Try to handle such jewellery as little as possible yourself. Take it to a responsible and trusted jeweller who also sells antique jewellery. He will understand the value and the fragility of such a piece.

Antique jewellery should never be steam-cleaned or put in an ultrasonic cleaning machine. A steam cleaner is too harsh and will remove the patina that is one of the distinguishing features of antique jewellery. An ultrasonic cleaner works on vibration and can damage your jewellery in a number of ways.

If you want to clean away a little dust, do it with a baby toothbrush and a soft, dry cloth. Enamelled jewellery also requires careful handling. Soft enamel may easily be washed out of settings when treated harshly. Dampness must be avoided because moisture can activate acid and salts and this might displace the enamel. Hard enamels may be able to withstand gentle hand-cleaning, but the emphasis is on the word ‘gentle’. Remember, such jewellery may be priceless as it could be one-of-a-kind.

If any part of your enamel is chipped/worn off, don’t take it to a jeweller to fill it in. In all probability, he will not be able to replicate the exact colour and the piece will lose its authenticity. Wear it as it is. For even the moon has spots on it!

Do you like enamelled jewellery? Tell t2@abpmail.com