Why are you still based in Calcutta? Isn’t the money in Delhi or Mumbai?

I believe that my roots, inspirations and entire thinking process are ingrained in the heart of Calcutta. I feel that my work has a sensibility that essentially belongs here. I had moved to Antwerp (Belgium) in 1991 to trade and set up my company Solitaire but returned in 1999-2000 because my soul was missing.

Calcutta has always been culturally up there, but in terms of fashion we were looked down upon. Now we have created a snobbish fashion alternative hub that is like a slap on the face of rest of the nation. We stand for bespoke. We stand for chic. All the fashion that originates here is revolutionary and so are my jewels!

Did you always want to join your family business Satramdas Dhalamal?

Not really. I wanted to be an actor. I also took part in a play by Deepika Roy titled After Magritte. This was for Doordarshan and then I did a small play for BBC’s Channel 4. I was so terribly interested in theatre. After a while, I thought of taking up fashion.... After my dad fell ill, I turned to the family business. I didn’t have a clue so I took a long break and travelled to Europe for six months to figure out my mind and inclination. It was during this time that I was sure I needed to do something creative to fulfil my soul. I came back and decided that this was it.

From his personal album

Raj as a stylish four-year-old

Raj (in a hat) with his college gang

Raj and family with Mother Teresa

Chinese fashionista Tina Tan Lee, the Sultan of Malaysia and Raj with his model at a Singapore showing

What is an early lesson you learnt?

My father wanted to see me tough. As a result he never patted me on the back, leaving me craving for appreciation all the time. This made me a cynical person, always cautious of other people. I have no expectations from anyone and don’t take people for granted from an early age. This has left in me a constant sense of wanting to achieve.

How involved is your sister Sumi in the business?

Sumi looks after our shows. She runs her own company called Sumi Fine Jewels. She also looks after the promotion of Raj Mahtani Jewels.

How old is the flagship Park Street store?

The company Satramdas Dhalamal was founded in 1880 and the first store was where the restaurant Moulin Rouge is today. The present Park Street store opened in 1924.

Who is your right-hand business help?

My right hand is my right-hand business help! Also, my assistant Deepa does a great job of co-existing with me and also just letting me be! She has been with me for the past 14 years.

Who are the people who come to visit you in their private jets?

Jets are the latest toys in the corporate world. So you can say a lot of people come in their toys!

And who are they…

A cross-section of the society…. The Mittals, Ambanis, Goenkas, Birlas, Bhartias and also the who’s who of Bollywood.

But why are they so hush-hush about the jewellery they buy?

See, for them, jewellery is just a part of their lives. It’s too banal a thing for them to discuss. They are all achievers and jewels are not party talk for them.

What is your signature style?

For me, the bigger the better! I look at jewellery as an artist treats canvas and then interpret it with metals, stones and gold.

At the moment I would describe my style as one in which I marry ancient art forms with modern connotations. My next collection will show women how casually and effortlessly they can wear my jewels, almost like second skin.

Why does size matter so much to Raj Mahtani?

Everyone knows that size is important! If a woman is confident, she can carry off a large piece. I like chunky, big pieces. I love the ethos, drama and energy of an oversized jewel. It is undeniably fantastic and the cynosure of all eyes. I love shocking people!

Which is your favourite stone?

Diamond.

And after diamonds?

I like emeralds, rubies and rubilites.

What is your inspiration?

Everything that I see every day. It could be architecture, paintings, cutlery…. It is the everyday things that one tends to notice the most. Design is born at that disconnected moment when everything is juxtaposed against nothing.

What is your vision for Satramdas Dhalamal?

Satramdas Dhalamal is a brand in Calcutta and will always be. It holds a sentimental place in my heart. It is a reputed label and part of history. The brand that will go forward is Raj Mahtani, my couture label. It will be travelling the world.

What are the international expansion plans?

High-end serious jewellery is not something that you can physically travel with. Traditionally, all over the world, major jewellery brands like Van Cleef & Arpels or Cartier have one or two main stores and several satellite stores that are used to titillate the senses of clients and also for advertising the brand. Raj Mahtani will follow the same strategy.

Do you say no to clients?

All the time!

How much time do you give a client?

Most women who come to me know their minds. If they don’t know it, they are most welcome to come and spend time in my parlour. If the client is on the same wavelength as me I can spend a lot of time with her.

But how much time do you give a client?

About 30 to 40 minutes per client.

Do celebrities get more time from you?

Only if they are friendly, otherwise no.

And better designs?

No. I would brainstorm for anyone. I love getting inside the mind of a woman!

Should men wear jewellery?

Yes, but very occasionally. More importantly, guys should only wear what they can carry off. I’ve seen some men wear brooches, pendants or rings very well.

What should they never wear?

Hair ornaments!

Which are your favourite fashion labels?

Comme des Garçons, Alexander McQueen, John Galliano and Vivienne Westwood.

Do you shop in Calcutta?

Yes. I buy my jeans from Levis.

Who is your best friend?

Anamika (Khanna), Antoinette (Khetawat) and Komal (Sood). These girls are my best friends and my muses, who I talk to for hours. I have great regard for Karan Paul. And I love to hang out with Ashish Sharma and Abhishek Bansal.

How do you keep fit?

I watch what I eat for dinner and try to cut out carbohydrates. Also, I squeeze in a workout at Solace once or twice a week.

SNAPSHOTS

Date of birth: December 18

Grew up in: Calcutta and Darjeeling

School: La Martiniere till Class V; St Paul’s School Darjeeling

College: I started out in St Xavier’s College but had to drop out to take over the family business after my father’s death.

First day in office: As a child I used to visit the store and was overwhelmed with all the bling that I was never allowed to touch! My first day of work was a rude shock! I started going to office during the transit between school and college and my father made me clean the glass window at our store Sataramdas Dhalamal. My first few days involved more menial work.

When I joined the business formally I didn’t know what was happening! I can’t say I fell in love with the jewels at first sight but they grew on me eventually.

On my wish list: I want to be able to fly down to my clients for appointments. Hence I want to be able to work when I want to, how I want to and most importantly, with whom I want to. Basically, I want a client to give me an idea and let me work on it. And then I would love to fly down and place it on her neck. I want to be a jeweller and not a jewellery designer.

On a more macro level, I want to see the jewellery industry on the same page as the fashion industry. Serious jewellery has always been viewed as investment but I want to change that. I would love to see a Jewellery Week. Jewellery need not be seen as accessory to a fashion designer. It is as mainstream as fashion with forecasts and trends. I also want to make a film on Calcutta, capturing the city’s sights, sounds and smells! The city forms a perfect backdrop with its decadence, drama and ethos, no less than an Italian town.

RAPID FIRE
Rajasthan Royalty or Ambanis: Ambanis

Preity or Ash: Preity

Best-dressed Calcuttan:Sunita Kumar

iPhone or Blackberry: iPhone

Fashion shows or private showings? Private showings

Cricket or concerts? Concerts

Anamika or Sabyasachi? No comments!

Your muse? Audrey Hepburn.