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regular-article-logo Monday, 13 May 2024

Candid chat with designer Ruchika

Inspired by the theme #MiniPlayMegaSlay, Ruchika Sachdeva’s Bodice creation was like an ideal state of mind – easy, free flowing, uncomplicated

Saionee Chakraborty Published 31.03.21, 12:50 AM
Ananya Panday and Ruchika Sachdeva took a bow after the show (extreme right)

Ananya Panday and Ruchika Sachdeva took a bow after the show (extreme right) Pictures: Sandip Das

Ruchika Sachdeva’s Bodice creations are like an ideal state of mind. Easy, free-flowing, uncomplicated. Just like a deep breath. Her Lakme Absolute Grand Finale collection, Ready. Set. Play, at FDCI X Lakme Fashion Week, held as part of the phygital week and inspired by Lakme’s beauty theme #MiniPlayMegaSlay, took place at Bayview, Princess Dock, Mumbai Port Trust, Mazgaon. Guests drove in and watched Ruchika’s signature minimal story unfold on a “life-sized Scrabble board”, from the comfort of their cars. Easy silhouettes like dresses and separates doused with “geometry” and simplicity in colours like pale pinks, ice blue, pistachios, white and yellows, made for a sporty-feminine collection, for the woman on the go. Ruchika used colour blocking generously and also put her Lakme Absolute Grand Finale showstopper Ananya Panday into one — a pleated skirt and top.

The Telegraph had chatted with Ruchika ahead of her showing on Bodice turning 10 and why she finally feels “mature enough to do something with” all that she has learned.

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Congratulations for landing the fianle! What is your interpretation of a ‘grand’ finale though?

I feel like these terms like ‘grand’ are very subjective. Our brand believes in celebrating every day. It’s empowering women every day. For me, every day is grand. At the same time, it feels really special while sitting in the middle of a pandemic, I still cannot believe we are doing a fashion show. Very grateful, excited, thankful that finally some high-energy (things) are happening after the lockdown.

What has been the prep like?

I am working all the time. I feel, ‘what 10 years?!’ I am still the same, just how I started.... The first day I slept at five and there was constant back and forth happening with the production. I really like to do special things and things with an original approach, which takes time, energy and effort. Lakme being Lakme is really open to people like me and I guess that’s why they got me on board in the first place. I am really glad that I am being able to express my creativity. I am not being able to travel and I wish I could go and see the location in person and there are a lot of Zoom calls and photos being shared, but it is so special just to be able to make it happen. I’ll be there for the show and fittings.

It’s crazy though. I am a total workaholic and I don’t know if being a perfectionist is a good thing any more. (Laughs)... it’s taken a lot, but, I love it. I love the adrenaline that comes with putting a show together.

How have you interpreted the Lakme theme for the season?

To be very honest, I feel there has been a shift in India from wanting to be completely make-up less to now this empowerment movement... and you love a good lipstick. I quite enjoy make-up. I don’t do a lot of it.... I live in my studio. I wake up from my bedroom to go to my living room to work, which is my office but I would dress up. It makes me feel it is a fresh new day. I do value make-up to be honest and I feel like it’s become a more personal thing rather than a validation thing for women around the globe now. It’s almost a revolution.

It’s great to be able to carry a colour in your pocket, which you can pop on your lips and feel great. So, I have translated it in my collection and it is such a harmonious marriage. It was such a happy coincidence that I am in the 10th year of Bodice and after Covid, I was feeling like I wanted to have fun with my collection. We all had gratitude for the things we took for granted. I have added colour to my collection, bright, solid colours. This has given me confidence. After 10 years, I feel I am in a secure place as a designer, which has come from 10 years of hard work.

(The collection) is in the signature Bodice aesthetic, questioning things and questioning what it means to do a finale... looking at things not necessarily to disrupt it if it is not needed, but are we just following norms for the sake of it.... Though I feel very old now that 10 years of Bodice are done, could I bring something new to the table, could I bring a shift because culture does ripple down in many ways... how women dress, how men dress, why is it that a woman is more ornamented at a wedding vs a man, why is it that a man is more comfortable. All this has trickled down through the more cultural movements that are happening. As I am growing older, I am less harsh on myself, less critical of my work and that is reflecting in my collections.

Ananya Panday is an unlikely muse for your collection...

I feel we box people too soon. She is a young girl and I feel there might be a side to her that we don’t know and we might see at the finale... she brings something new. Some of my friends are really mature and the amount I learn from them is amazing, but I see that struggle in a young person, that hustle, that finding yourself.

Because maybe I work in clothing, I have empathy and complete non-judgment towards what people wear because I can see where it comes from, what is it that defines classy and non-classy, mature and immature.... It is my job to make the best out of them come out. Question certain norms and challenge them.

What was the role of the International Woolmark Prize in your career?

It came with a $235,000 grant. That can add a lot to your business, especially when you are creative, and on top of that it gave me at least 15 international accounts. We started to sell at Harvey Nichols, five stores in Tokyo.... I was glad that I got a platform where I could put my clothes and people valued me for my work rather than anything else.

We are putting this whole show in a game set at the end and I like to look at life as a game and that makes winning a lot more worthwhile and losing a little easier. You can play again and then we die. Sorry, it got a bit dark. (Laughs)

What do you want to do with the brand going forward?

I want it to be a global fashion (brand). I am hoping I am able sell my clothes to a larger audience, beyond geography, boundaries, culture, boxes, stereotype where I can push my own boundaries.

Quick six with Ananya Panday...

• I think my finale look is kind of Bodice classic, a lot to do with a fun structure and also there is a lot of colour in it

• Being the Lakme Absolute Grand Finale showstopper is a dream come true

• I am crushing on Timothee (Chalamet) (this summer)

• Zendaya is an all-time fashion favourite

• (2020 was all about) Gratitude. Patience. Growth

• My favourite shade from Lakme Absolute Matte Melt Mini Collection is Nomad Pink. The collection is tied up with the theme which is all about fun in small packages, the little things in life and feeling grateful and finding joy in that. It has a velvet finish, which feels lovely on the lips and it’s super hydrating. It comes in 10 colours, is limited edition and I love the packaging. I love the themes like winter, music festival, rainfall. You can put all 10 in your bag as they are so small

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