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Renaissance wine

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Languedoc In France Has Now Become A Premium Wine-producing Region, Says Harshal Shah Published 09.10.10, 12:00 AM

Languedoc-Rousillon in south France along the Mediterranean, is undoubtedly France’s most important wine region in terms of the volume of wine produced. It’s the largest individual wine region in the world, spanning just under 7,50,000 acres, three times the size of Bordeaux.

About 10 years ago, it was estimated that one in 10 of the world’s wines bottles came from this region and certainly, the region has blossomed into what is sure to become a true fine wine-producing region in France. There are over 40 controlled appellations (AOC) here.

Languedoc’s wines have always been associated with inexpensive, commercially-produced quaffing juice. The wines had a generic character — sweet fruit, light tannins and very little varietal character, but with an unpleasant alcoholic hit thanks to the warm climate in which producers let the grapes ripen longer than necessary. Even today, the garden-variety, otherwise bankable grapes like Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot are perhaps the weakest offerings from here.

What does succeed here are the hardy varieties like Carignan, Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault and Mourvèdre for reds, and less-known grapes like Bourboulenc, Grenache Blanc, Clairette (Grover Vineyards in Karnataka have small plantings of this variety), Picpoul and — surprisingly — Chardonnay for white wine.

White wines from here tend to be intensely aromatic, medium to full-bodied with flowers and spice and a slight ‘oily’ weight on the palate. They’re still refreshing. The reds have a distinctive ‘herbal’ character and are generally earthy and full-bodied.

Over the last year, I’ve found an impressive range of Langeudoc wines available in India. Ignoring the ‘boring’ Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot styles from the Vin de Pays D’Oc AOC and bottled exclusively for importers to offer at rock-bottom prices, there are some world-renowned wines coming near you. Here are my three top picks.

Mas de Daumas Gassac

One of the greatest producers in the region, this winery was set up in 1970. The main red grape variety here is Cabernet Sauvignon (from Bordeaux cuttings). The wines are elegant and age-worthy and have a stellar international reputation. The flagship wine is the Mas de Daumas Gassac Rouge, a Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant blend that can last decades. In India, the more affordable Moulin de Gassac and Figaro ranges are available through Fine Wines N’More.

Gérard Bertrand

The brainchild of a former French rugby star of the same name, this is an established wine business. Aspri Spirits imports three ranges of these wines, my favourite of which is the Château de L’Hospitalet range of reds and whites. Both are from the sub-region of La Clape, in Languedoc, which is one of the sunniest enclaves in France. The red blend is Syrah and Mourvèdre, while the white is a heady blend of Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc and the Italian Vermentino. Both wines have tremendous structure and are a pleasure to drink.

Laurent Miquel

A family winery in Languedoc, its Nord-Sud range represents excellent value all across India. The 2008 Nord-Sud Viognier in particular is reminiscent of young Condrieu (from the Rhône Valley) — spice mixed with apricots and orange blossom. The wine is made in oak, but this does not detract from its elegance and long, fruity finish. Imported by Mohan Brothers.

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