The stunningly beautiful Remarkables is a visual treat; (above) Arrowtown is a popular destination for art- adventurers

How can you go wrong with mountains on one side and lakes on the other? It’s hardly surprising that I leapt out of bed in the morning to gaze from my window at the dramatic Remarkables Mountain range of Queenstown in New Zealand’s South Island.

Queenstown is an adventure sports destination and visitors come here to try their hand at everything from bungee jumping to skydiving, jet-boating and even canyon-swinging. But I’d decided to be a contrarian and travel in the opposite direction from the herd. So I signed up for an ‘art-adventure’.

Alice, the artist guide, drove us from the mountains to the lakes and even to a quaint traditional village near Arrowtown. She started by handing each of us a sketchbook and a set of charcoal crayons and every now and then we stopped to draw what we saw. Obviously, this isn’t conventional tourism in which you press the camera shutter and move on to the next sight. I found myself studying what I saw and asking questions. Why did one mountain seem darker than the other? How does a very beautiful scene look from another angle? I ended up noticing the different degrees of light and shade — as if for the first time.

Next it was time for a spot of adventure and strenuous physical activity. David Macleod owns the Independent Mountain Guides Adventure Company and organises treks through the wonderfully alpine Queenstown terrain. I put my faith in him and set out for a heli-hike.

After being dropped by a helicopter on a dizzily high mountain peak, it was a tough trek down the treacherous slopes back to flat land. It was made slightly easier by David’s endless chatter including how he only agreed to live-in with his present partner after she did several climbs with him. Whenever I wanted to flop down by a shrub or linger at a particularly good viewpoint, David urged my weary limbs on, with his cheerful but indefatigable motto: “All pain is weakness leaving the body”. Though, to give him credit, he navigates the hillside fearlessly and helps novices down, despite a knee injury. Exhilarated, inspired and a few kilos lighter, we completed our descent several hours later.

Anyone who goes to New Zealand should take time off to watch a Kiwi Haka or Maori war dance. The Haka — which involves energetic hand movements and ferocious facial expressions (glaring eyes and protruding tongues) — provided a glimpse of the energy that charges up Maori life. It’s all about the passion that motivates a warrior to push his limits and express his unique identity.

A Kiwi Haka in progress

The writer, Charles Bukowski, once said: “Some people never go crazy. What truly horrible lives they must lead.” Those are the words that come to your mind when you watch a Maori war dance. And the best part is that you’re encouraged to leave your inhibitions at the door, go up to the stage and participate.

A woman performing in the Haka also doubled as a masseuse at the Sofitel Queenstown Hotel and Spa. So I headed back to the hotel with her, assuming she’d give me the usual Maori exotica: that’s a full body wrap with local Manuka honey and volcanic mud from Rotorua.

But she was the real deal and after an intuitive glance in my direction, declared: “You’d be best off with a Leaf Miri Miri.” The next thing I knew, I was lying on a massage table while she began to unclench my taut muscles by tapping on them with leaves extending from a branch. I was left with little alternative in the face of this onslaught of leaf-tapping, traditional chanting and being swathed in a heavy blanket, but to relax.

Next on the cards was a nomad safari. The company specialises in tours to venues where the movie The Lord of the Rings was filmed. But I decided to head off on slightly lesser-known trails. As we drove through rivers, past little towns, mountains and bush, one could hardly not be enchanted by the beauty of it all. I was even more thrilled when I was allowed to keep the tiny gold flakes that my river panning threw up. Gold was discovered in the River Arrow back in the 1860s.

Ferg’s gourmet hamburgers aren’t objects of natural beauty — or perhaps they are. Poets, travellers and locals have all written odes to them. So, it wasn’t surprising that I found myself standing at 2am in a queue of 29 people, waiting patiently for an artfully prepared burger that completely redefines juicy.

Ferg is open 21 hours a day to cater to the needs of even the most tireless party animal. And that, in some ways, sums up the spirit of this town. It’s non-judgmental, free-spirited and you’ve the feeling that you are truly alive.

Ready reckoner

Getting there: Singapore Airlines flies twice daily between Mumbai and Auckland. From Auckland, there are direct connecting flights to Queenstown on Air New Zealand.

Staying there: The Queenstown Park Boutique Hotel is a designer luxury property. Go to queenstownpark.co.nz. For information on the activities, visit artadventures.co. nz; fergburger.com; skyline.co.nz; independentmountainguides.co.nz, nomadsafaris.co.nz; sofitel.com.