Jungle transfers are usually dull and uneventful but those are the last words I’d choose to describe my experience in Madhya Pradesh. If you have the good fortune of staying with Jehan Numa Wilderness that houses two stunning lodges (Reni Pani Jungle Lodge in Satpura and Bori Safari Lodge in Bori Wildlife Sanctuary), then you have the great pleasure of taking a luxurious two-hour boat ride to go from one jungle to the other.
The Bori Wildlife Sanctuary is part of the Satpura Tiger Reserve and the Pachmarhi Biosphere Reserve. The jungles are connected through a continuous patch of land as well as the Tawa Reservoir, which skirts the jungles. While Bori is one of the oldest sanctuaries in the country, it’s also considered an up-and-coming park as it is less frequented. The animal movement has increased in Satpura but now the Bori Wildlife Sanctuary also sees a fair bit of action with the big cats moving more frequently. The last of the villages and inhabitants in Bori were relocated in 2019 and since then it has been flourishing, with wildlife sightings making it an attractive destination, especially for safari junkies that come to Satpura in search of elusive tigers.
The Tawa Reservoir and the backwaters of the Denwa river form a natural bridge between the two wildlife hotspots
Sightings on the water
After two magical nights in Satpura with incredible luck on my safaris, I am all set to head to Bori and see what it has to offer. As someone who thrives on safari adventures but really dreads the long mundane drive from one jungle to the next, this was an experience I wasn’t prepared for! While you can take a long boring drive through, Jehan Numa offers a private boat transfer where you are transported down the river with bag and baggage in tow!
Spotted owlets — one of the many feathered residents of the forests of Satpura
There’s really something about being on the water even if you aren’t a water person. The views are breathtaking, especially since most of the journey is through stunning landscapes across the river and the backwaters of the Denwa river. I’m accompanied by a naturalist and two very enthusiastic boatmen who insist that chances of spotting a tiger sunbathing on the river banks are very high. I laugh dismissively knowing the likelihood of that is zero to none but there’s a flicker of hope and excitement for that miracle. Unfortunately, despite valiant efforts and vigorous checking, my trip wasn’t blessed with a sight like that but the enthusiasm of my naturalist and boatmen certainly didn’t diminish. On many mornings herbivores like the gaur and deer are often spotted grazing by the river banks.
While spotting a tiger bathing in the river is a matter of luck, other sightings of deer, gaur, and birds are aplenty
As the boat sails down the river with crisp fresh morning air and the sun shining brightly in the piercing blue sky, it really is a sight for sore eyes. Vast patches of green on a never-ending river bank. Birds of all kinds soaring in the sky, lazing on the ground and swimming in the water. There’s a sense of ease and relaxation and despite not being very interested in bird watching, I have to admit it’s quite wonderful to witness multiple flying friends in all shapes and sizes. Birds like wooly necked storks, open billed storks, egrets and pied kingfishers are plenty but what thrilled me was a fleeting visit from my favourite Grey Headed Fish Eagle, which I’m told are also commonly spotted on this boat excursion.
Breakfast with a view
I imagined the ride to be calm, with all the happenings from a mini boat safari, but as I’ve come to learn from staying with Jehan Numa Wilderness, they’re all about the element of surprise. In the midst of me oohing and aahing at every raptor and tiny bird, the boat stops suddenly in the middle of the river. I’m perplexed and mildly terrified that we’ve had some kind of malfunction but my naturalist beams widely and says “nice spot to halt for breakfast don’t you think?”
I’m completely befuddled as I watch him and the crew synchronise and lay out an elaborate spread on the boat. I was expecting perhaps a small packed meal or something to nibble on, certainly not a spread with multiple dishes including French press coffee! I’ll admit that sweetened baked yogurt along with chicken sandwiches, egg rolls, fruit, cookies, and croissants in the middle of the river with a scenic landscape as a backdrop is the very definition of ‘Breakfast of Champions’. I stuff my face with every treat on offer as I sit back and enjoy the moment soaking it all in.
A grand breakfast spread with an enticing view
Naturalists tend to take the best photos on safari but I didn’t envisage these photography skills to extend to a mini photoshoot of me to commemorate this experience. I’m not complaining, in fact I’m grateful to have some lovely pictures of myself at breakfast that go beyond selfies. What can I say, the power and lure of the ’gram is too strong to ignore!
Post chow time and photographs, they do a swift job of packing it all in just as we’re about to reach our destination and await the adventures that Bori Wildlife Sanctuary has to offer.
The boat ride is approximately 36 kilometers and takes an easy 2 hours but it feels much quicker. I guess time really does fly when you’re having fun.
