Amit Aggarwal takes you by surprise every single time. With his sheer artistry with metallic polymer sheets. The twists and turns of reimagined Benarasis. The luminous dazzle of drapes and folds. The drama and the storytelling are imbued with Amit’s take on life and living. It starts conversations that go beyond the realm of fashion and style.

The Grey Goose Altius X Amit Aggarwal ‘Cocktail Couture’ at Delhi’s The Upper HSE by Tivoli, was sculptural and stark yet gorgeous and determinedly bold. Kalki Koechlin introduced the show, and a live piano performance by Sahil Vasudeva added to the mood.

Sharvari and Ibrahim Ali Khan walked for Amit. Post wrapping up all his commitments, Amit sat down with t2, for a candid conversation on his process and more.

Let’s start with the set. What was your inspiration for the inverted installation?

So, as you know, this was Grey Goose Vive Le Voyage, and the Altius (a new luxury vodka) is inspired by the French Alps. I always feel that we look at the Alps and we love to see the tip of the Alps. And at the tip, of course, is glamour, glitz, you see all the models walking, beautiful fineries and showstoppers and muses and the designer. I wanted to invert the entire Alps and bring attention to the base, because without the base, there wouldn’t be any tip. And I felt that this was a symbolic way of representing the millions of people who put the show together. They might not be in the spotlight, but that’s the reason the pinnacle or the tip exists.

Also, because the collection always talks about textiles that are bygones or things that need to be pushed forward. This was also a moment to celebrate the Grey Goose team that has put endless hours of work, the videography team, the choreographer, the make-up artist, my own team, every designer, every tailor, every bit of it.

How did you interpret nature in Exon: The Code of Light?

Metaphorically, the French Alps also really speak of how light actually truly illuminates every aspect of our being. At the heart of Exon, which is our ceremonial couture, is the light that we hold within. That is the true thing that connects all of us together in one story.

We build a story together, we colour our dreams together, and we build a heritage and think of a legacy. I think in an Amit Aggarwal narrative, this was almost a love story of the connection of two people getting attracted to each other, falling in love and painting a world of colours. That’s when the colours actually start to come in. And, towards the end, the Benarasis came in, which is actually my ode to heritage.

The detailing was mind-blowing…

Of course, as you know, the evolution of material language is something that I love to grapple with every season. But I think how material can be intrinsically used along with Indian crafts is what this collection was about. I think meticulous embroidery, the art of how a cutdana can be ombred, how beads can be laid out, that can have a reference from an African motif to an Indian, Gujarati (one)... the inferences are various. I think I do like to put a lot of thought and different ideas together when the collection builds up.

At the end of it, it is also a styling job. I think this collection is truly celebrating the lightness of being. Today I do feel that we do want to invest hard-earned money, but not in pieces that you can only wear once.

When did you fall in love with colours?

I know that I’m always in black or a dark blue or a grey, but truly, I’m someone who is really inspired by colour. In a certain narrative, the form may be more important. So, I subdue the colour because, you know, when two aspects come together, then sometimes it can be a little bit of a struggle. But I do feel that there’s probably this dichotomous thing in me where I can move effortlessly between pastels to colours.

Is there a technique on how you interpret colours in the collections?

I actually have to give credit where it’s due. You know, at a show, a lot of things look extremely wonderful with the kind of light. However, to answer that, I think that I do like how there is a mathematical way, I like to look at how the grading of a colour happens, and I enjoy doing that. There needs to be a math… and I’m blessed with a team that understands that and really pushes it to the next level every single time.

How are grooms and brides changing, and who is this collection for?

I think at the heart of the collection is the person who truly is liberated, comfortable in their skin. I know that there’s a lot of seriousness in the clothes, but I also feel, if you don’t live in the moment where you are going to celebrate the most important day of your life and just worry about pictures being immaculate and perfect, you’ve lost that moment. I think I really look forward to celebrating this journey with brides and grooms or people in love, who are in love with themselves first before they fall in love with another, so it’s really for them.

What are your first memories of Paris?

My boss and I were travelling to Paris for work, and he, of course, had all the money in the world, but he was simply dressed and didn’t like to show off. This was back in 2003, and he said he’d like to take me to the Prada store. I can’t even tell you the excitement…. We were at the gate, and I could feel that sense of being judged, that ‘Okay, why on earth would I even open the door for you?’

When my boss just swiped a card of, I think an €8,000 dress, back in the time, every single person’s jaw dropped.

Fortunately, things have changed today. India is looked at with so much respect. You walk into a store in France, and they’ll probably open the door for you even before you want to enter. I think the tables have turned, but that’s my first memory.

What has love done to you?

I think love gave me birth. Love is the seed for all of us. If I’m not in love, I cannot create. Love for me is not just this mushy love. It is also despair, longing, craving, having it but not wanting to have it, like being able to get it but leaving it so that you can come back and enjoy it. So, love has so many different aspects, and I think love is the epitome of creation.

How does Amit Aggarwal create magic, collection after collection?

The truth is, I don’t know anything else to do in life. This feels like breathing for me. If I don’t create, I feel like I’m dead. I try and do my best. I do enjoy the art of experimenting, and I do like things going wrong. Sharvari’s dress for the show was an utter disaster the night before, and we had fittings with her at 11am. We sat till 8am, cracked the dress, which otherwise would have taken a month to construct. When you have that drive to do something, time becomes inconsequential. No one slept. I think I’m just blessed