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regular-article-logo Monday, 28 April 2025

Spotlighting 10 trailblazing women leading the world’s top fashion houses

Sarah Burton’s appointment as Givenchy’s creative director in late 2024 marked a pivotal moment in fashion, cementing her role as one of the most revered designers of her generation

Sanjali Brahma Published 08.03.25, 07:55 AM
Sarah Burton, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Chemena Kamali

Sarah Burton, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Chemena Kamali Getty Images

Sarah Burton, creative director, Givenchy

Sarah Burton’s appointment as Givenchy’s creative director in late 2024 marked a pivotal moment in fashion, cementing her role as one of the most revered designers of her generation. With 26 years at Alexander McQueen, she became synonymous with a masterful interplay between the avant-garde and the wearable, sculpting silhouettes that embrace the female form with boldness and precision.

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Her intricate embroidery, striking colour palettes, and dramatic yet poetic designs have been worn by the likes of the Princess of Wales, Cate Blanchett, and Lady Gaga, each look defined by meticulous craftsmanship. At Givenchy, she is revitalising the house’s heritage, unearthing archival patterns while infusing them with her distinct artistic language.

Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director, Dior

As Dior’s first female creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri has redefined the house with a distinctly feminine perspective, intertwining contemporary ideals with its storied legacy. Her haute couture collections seamlessly merge punk-rock energy with ethereal, structured silhouettes—recently drawing inspiration from Yves Saint Laurent’s earliest work at Dior.

Chiuri is renowned for her poetic storytelling through fashion. Her revival of corsetry, Grecian draping, and delicate lacework are always infused with a modern sensibility, ensuring each piece feels both historical and utterly contemporary. Her collections champion femininity as a force of power, whether through slogan-emblazoned T-shirts advocating for women’s rights or breathtaking couture pieces that blend fragile beauty with bold statements. From her Mumbai-inspired showcase honouring traditional artisanship to her embroidered tarot motifs and beadwork-laden creations, Chiuri’s work embodies a reverence for culture and history.

Chemena Kamali, creative director, Chloé

Chemena Kamali’s journey in fashion is one of intuition, perseverance, and an unwavering passion for craftsmanship. Inspired by Karl Lagerfeld, she trained in Trier and Central Saint Martins before securing an internship at Chloé under Phoebe Philo. She later honed her skills at Alberta Ferretti, returned to Chloé under Clare Waight Keller, and refined her artistry further at Saint Laurent.

Now, as Chloé’s creative director, Kamali seamlessly merges the brand’s signature bohemian spirit with a deeply modern sensibility. Her designs encapsulate effortless femininity, balancing fluidity and structure with intricate textures and thoughtful detailing. With an extensive personal collection of over 1,500 vintage blouses, Kamali’s appreciation for volume, cut, and drape is evident in every piece she creates.

Pelagia Kolotouros, creative director, Lacoste

Pelagia Kolotouros stands at the intersection of innovation and sustainability, making her one of the most dynamic figures in contemporary fashion. Her tenure at Nike and Adidas saw her leading groundbreaking projects that redefined performance wear, and now, at Lacoste, she is infusing the house’s legacy with a radical, forward-thinking energy.

A graduate of Parsons School of Design, Kolotouros has long been an advocate for sustainability, championing circular fashion and spearheading eco-conscious initiatives. At Lacoste, she is redefining sport-luxury, merging technical precision with elevated design and ensuring that heritage and responsibility can coexist seamlessly. Her collections exude a refined athleticism, proving that innovation and sustainability are the true markers of modern luxury.

Simone Rocha, founder, Simone Rocha

Voluminous silhouettes, intricate embroidery, and unexpected contrasts define Simone Rocha’s distinct aesthetic. Since launching her eponymous label in 2010, she has captivated the fashion world with her unique ability to juxtapose delicate fabrics like tulle and lace with bold, sculptural shapes.

Drawing on her Irish-Chinese heritage, Rocha frequently explores themes of identity and tradition, reinterpreting classic womenswear with avant-garde sensibilities. Her ethereal yet structured designs have garnered a devoted following, redefining what femininity means in a modern context. Rocha’s work embodies strength through softness, a quiet yet powerful rebellion against conventional norms of beauty.

Miuccia Prada, co-creative director, Prada & founder,
Miu Miu

With over four decades of influence, Miuccia Prada remains a pillar of intellectual fashion, challenging conventions with her avant-garde approach. From her innovative use of materials like nylon to her bold explorations of proportion and texture, she has continuously redefined luxury.

Launching Miu Miu as an extension of her creative vision, she has explored the intersection of rebellion and refinement, making bold statements on gender, identity, and culture. In an industry often obsessed with fleeting trends, Prada’s ability to merge intellectualism with timeless design has cemented her as one of the most formidable women in fashion.

Stella McCartney, founder, Stella McCartney

A pioneer in sustainable fashion, Stella McCartney has built a brand that seamlessly fuses ethical responsibility with impeccable design. Known for her sharp tailoring, fluid silhouettes, and dedication to cruelty-free luxury, she has redefined what it means to be a designer in the 21st century.

Her influence extends beyond fashion—she is a vocal advocate for sustainability, proving that high fashion and environmental consciousness are not mutually exclusive. With every collection, McCartney pushes the industry forward, making her one of the most important voices in contemporary design.

Donatella Versace, artistic director & vice president, Versace

Unapologetic glamour defines Donatella Versace’s reign. Since taking the helm of Versace, she has elevated the brand’s seductive aesthetic, blending bold silhouettes with a rock-chic edge.

Her collections are a masterclass in confidence, from dazzling metallics to daring cuts, ensuring that Versace remains synonymous with empowerment. She has successfully maintained Gianni Versace’s legacy while propelling the house into a new era of modern sensuality.

Silvia Venturini Fendi, creative director, Fendi

At the heart of Fendi’s creative vision, Silvia Venturini Fendi has shaped the brand’s accessories and ready-to-wear divisions with a balance of tradition and modernity. Her meticulous craftsmanship is evident in the house’s iconic Baguette bags and the seamless integration of luxury with avant-garde elements.

Veronica Leoni, creative director, Calvin Klein

Minimalism with monumentality defines Veronica Leoni’s design approach. Having honed her craft at Céline under Phoebe Philo, The Row, Jil Sander, and Moncler, she has built a career on precision, sharp tailoring, and an unwavering attention to detail.

In 2020, she founded Quira, earning an LVMH Prize nomination in 2023. Now at Calvin Klein, she is redefining the house’s sensuality with what she calls sexitude—an effortless, quiet confidence. Her debut blended archival reverence with modern sensuality — nubby coats, crisp anoraks, golden beaded gowns, and CK One-inspired minaudières. Her muse? “My wife—the sexiest woman I know,” she says.



Who is your favourite woman in fashion? Tell t2@abp.in

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