The tough get going: A reasonable degree of physical fitness is required for a trek on the frozen Zanskar river in Kargil

Dare to tread on thin ice? Just do it, provided you are game for an adventurous trek on the frozen river of Zanskar in Kargil. Despite the freezing temperatures and the risks of walking on a white sheet of ice, a ‘Chadar’ trek — denoting a white blanket — is sure to reward you with an unparalleled experience.

Once this white, frozen Zanskar river was the only way in and out for Zanskaris in winter when all the other routes were closed by heavy snowfall in the high passes. In fact, the ice sheet on the river was then better known as the trade route for Zanskari people, who traded butter, a product of summer farming. Today, the route is as popular among avid trekkers and adventure lovers.

The temperature, at its lowest best, may leave your teeth chattering, especially in the morning. You need to be up by 8 am and start walking around 9:30 am. By then, the sun is up in the azure blue sky and makes the day typically sunny. As the sun climbs higher, the temperature is more tolerable and the view is simply overwhelming.

This trekking route takes you into some of the most isolated regions of the Zanskar mountains, most notably the village of Lingshed. While trekking on the frozen river, you need to do an average of five to seven hours daily at an easy pace. Mind you, a reasonable degree of physical fitness is imperative to walk for nine days at a stretch during winter.

The trek commences from the village of Chiling located not far from the confluence of the Indus and Zanskar rivers. The trek follows the river gorge through a spectacular landscape — a photographer’s paradise — offering occasional glimpses of wildlife. Many of these spots cannot be accessed during the summer as they run through deep canyons and gorges.

Although pleasant on sunny days, the weather conditions can change abruptly, with wind temperatures plummeting to –20 to –30°C. Chiling and Lingshed are the only sizeable villages on this trek; the rest are names of places and caves along the route.

You must also be equipped for sub-zero conditions and simple camping conditions. While the trek is non-technical (crampons are not recommended), occasional scrambles along the sides of the valley may be necessary. So you must be fit. As you are not climbing passes, you will not gain extreme elevation as the maximum altitude is 3,800 m.

The trek is graded five as per the international grading system where “one” is considered to be the easiest. The reasons are justified by the unpredictability of the conditions encountered and the remoteness of the area visited. Also, the amount and condition of ice on the Zanskar river varies from year to year and from day to day, which is why a positive and flexible attitude is essential. Ideally, a person going for this kind of a trek should have some mountaineering experience and must be aware of the use of ice axe and crampons on steeper ice. He or she must also be prepared to put up with the extreme low temperature (down to –35°C at night).

You can fly down to Leh, contact a travel agent and book a total package. The cost increases because at this time of the year, the roads are blocked. So you have to fly in and out of Leh. On an average, the agencies charge anything between Rs 1,000 and Rs 1,500 a day, depending on the facilities they offer.

Need to know

Surroundings: Before starting out, acclimatise yourself by visiting the nearby monasteries and palaces.

Clothing: Be prepared in terms of clothing. It is very cold.

• For the feet: You should carry an extra pair of shoes and warm socks.

• Light your way: A head torch always comes in handy.

• Protect the batteries: If you are carrying a digital camera, carry extra batteries and protect your batteries from the extreme cold.

• Identity issues: Carry an ID card and photocopies as the authorities may ask for it at odd times.

• Tidbits: Always carry some chocolates and dry food with you.