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WAILING WALL, JERUSALEM, ISRAEL |
What?s the first thing that comes to mind when someone says West Asia? That?s an easy one: a three-letter word, oil. But that?s not the whole story. West Asia is home to both oil sheikhs and some of the world?s oldest civilisations. It stretches from Jerusalem to places like Damascus and other ancient sites like Aleppo. And, if you want more, there are always shopping paradises like Dubai.
Contrary to what you might think, the locals even in countries like Syria, will go out of their way to be friendly to travellers. What are the region?s hottest travel spots? Travel agents say Jordan, Syria, Israel, Dubai, Bahrain and the Sultanate of Oman are the most popular destinations.
Jordan
• The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan was carved out in the 20th century but its territories have seen a great deal of history. It has lost cities, was the scene of action of many biblical stories and also the stamping ground of T.E. Lawrence aka Lawrence of Arabia. Jordan is also home to two of the most spectacular sights in West Asia ? Petra and Wadi Rum.
Petra is the sort of place that usually exists only in the imagination. The city was hewn from stone that takes on deep rusty hues interlaced with bands of grey and yellow. But don?t expect a serene visit: up to 3,000 people come here every day.
For a slightly more contemplative experience, the startling desert scenery of Wadi Rum enraptured Lawrence of Arabia and has caused more than one traveller to don a kaffiyeh and gaze into the middle distance.
Jordan?s capital, Amman, won?t win any prizes as the most interesting city in the world, but all roads lead here, so you?re bound to wind up here sooner or later. Do visit the Desert Castle Loop in the desert east of Amman and don?t miss the ruins at Jerash, the Byzantine-era mosaics at Madaba, or the oasis town of Azraq.
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CITADEL HILL, AMMAN, JORDAN |
Syria
• If there?s one place you have to see in Syria, it?s Palmyra. Unlike Petra, Palmyra is a relatively quiet spot where you won?t be peering between package tourists to view the ruins. That?s one thing in plenty here. Ruins.
Syria might still be on the US State Department?s list of seven countries sponsoring terrorism, but don?t let that put you off. The Syrians love to welcome strangers. So when you hear the word tafaddal, it?s a sign of a warm welcome in this land.
In Damascus, Syria?s largest city and capital, you come across mysterious Oriental bazaars and the somewhat decayed charm of some of Islam?s greatest monuments. Though it?s unlikely to hear traditional Arab tunes on the streets, you?ll find interesting variations by way of Arab-style singers backed by orchestras of Western and traditional instruments everywhere you go.
Known as Halab by locals, Aleppo is famous for the Dead Cities ? Jerada, Ruweiha, Serjilla and Al-Bara. The mystery remains: why were these towns abandoned? There are some 600 sites, ranging from single monuments to whole villages complete with houses, churches, baths and even wine presses. Of these, Serjilla is the most eerie with its well-maintained houses, yet with no human inhabitants.
A sight not to be missed is the Krak des Chevaliers, a remarkably well-preserved Crusader castle, which looks almost exactly as it would have 800 years ago. It would put you in mind of the author Paul Theroux who described it as the epitome of the dream castle of childhood fantasies.
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DAMASCUS, SYRIA |
Israel
• Considering how small it is, Israel has lots to offer the tourist. It?s the Promised Land with historical monuments that are sacred to more than one religion.
For most people, it means Jerusalem, which boasts of the famous Wailing Wall (called the Western Wall in Israel). Near this are other must-sees: Yad Vashem (the Holocaust memorial and museum), the Citadel of David, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and Dome of the Rock.
If you have had an overdose of the historical wonders of Jerusalem, then Tel Aviv will definitely appeal to you. From the spicy Orientalism of the Yemenite Quarter, the seedy vodka caf?s of Allenby St and the Miami chic of pastel-pink beachfront condos, Tel Aviv is a hub of finance and business.
A visit to the Dead Sea may be clich?d, but that doesn?t mean you shouldn?t do it. No trip to Israel is complete without a float in its waters full of invigorating minerals.
Dubai
• About 50 years ago this Emirate was a tranquil town, whose coral-and-gypsum huts housed Bedouin traders and pearl-divers. Now most Indians probably think of it as an all-year shopping paradise, though January-February is the time when you can have your fill of everything imaginable, from gold, perfume, haute couture, cars, and electronics to handicrafts and textiles at the Dubai shopping festival.
There are other events as well, including fashion shows, children?s events, streetside performances, fireworks and film festivals that reflect the Emirate?s cosmopolitan character. Plus one of the biggest events of them all, the Dubai World Cup takes place during the festival. With a staggering $12 million purse, it is the richest horse race in the world.
While roaming around, you will realise that there aren?t really any street addresses here. If someone offers you directions like ?It?s in the white villa, next to the big tree, across from the Avari Hotel,? don?t fret. Your taxi driver will know the way.
Spend two nights at the Al Maha Desert Resort, a collection of luxurious Bedouin ?tents? nestled among sand dunes and wandering herds of Arabian oryx. While you are at it, catch a tour of the over-the-top sail-shaped Burj Al Arab hotel. Have a drink at the Skyview Bar on the 27th floor; it offers a prime view of the Palm Jumeirah, the first of two $1.5 billion man-made island chains fashioned into the shape of a palm tree.
After dinner, try hookahs at the One & Only Royal Mirage rooftop lounge. Or explore Dubai?s multicultural nightlife at downtown hotels like Quality Inn Horizon and Marco Polo, where you?ll find Indian bars with dancers and Iranian and Mexican bars with live bands.
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GOLD SOUK, DUBAI |
Bahrain
• Bahrain is a favourite with travellers in this part of the world as a relatively liberal and modern Gulf state.
As flashy and modern as central Manama is, the basic rhythms of life in the island?s many villages remain traditional. Women cover themselves from head to foot and female travellers are expected to wear long skirts and one-piece bathing suits.
One of the mainstays of Bahraini culture is the drinking of traditional Arabian coffee. You can?t go far without finding a coffee-pot in a shop or a souk. Traditional Arabian street food like shawarma (lamb or chicken carved from a spit and served in pita bread) and desserts like baklava are ubiquitous.
At Bani Jamrah, a village famous for its weavers, you?ll find them going about their trade in shacks located a few hundred metres outside the village. It?s a subtle indication that visitors are welcome to drop in on the weavers ? but not on the villagers.
Muharraq has been spared much of the modernising that?s transformed Manama in recent years. Don?t miss the Royal Tombs, in A?ali that are up to 50 feet high and 150 feet in diameter.
Oman
• Locals will vouch for the fact that the Sultanate of Oman is as safe as a deserted island. What?s more, it?s also said to be the best scuba-diving spot in the world. Thus, be prepared for the magnificent blue waters of the Gulf of Oman, pristine beaches and typical white Oriental buildings in the background.
Muscat is a clean city without the slightly artificial feel that typifies much of the region. The Old Muttrah Souk hasn?t changed. Small shops display fruits, vegetables, jewellery, souvenirs like the khangar (traditional dagger) and fabrics. This is the real Orient; a place where Aladdin would find his magic lamp.
The village of Nizwa is very interesting, for the inhabitants here are highly respected. It is said that they are magicians who can change you into a donkey! At the souk or market, it?s usual to spot storytellers while you can also check out the local handicrafts and the traditional birka, a glittering embroidered face mask worn by local ladies.
A striking change from Muscat, Salalah is about the only corner of Arabia that catches the Indian summer monsoon, and it?s also the best base for exploring the villages and archaeological sites of southern Oman. The Jabbal mountains are a good place to go hiking if you have a taste for adventure.
The Omanis are a cultured lot who?ll welcome you and invite you to share a plate with the family. That means literally sharing one. There are a few things you have to remember, like taking your shoes off before entering, always covering your shoulders and knees and eating a lot because it is expected.
Travellers? tips
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BURJ AL ARAB HOTEL, DUBAI |
• The situation in Israel remains volatile. The West Bank and Gaza Strip, in particular, are unsafe.
• The main hassle in Israel is avoiding having your passport stamped ? most Arab countries will deny you entry if you?ve visited Israel. Try to get officials to stamp your entry permit rather than your passport.
• Avoid visiting during Ramadan when accommodation becomes very hard to find, especially at the lower end of the scale, where prices sometimes double.