Pic by Rupinder Sharma

So what does the New Year hold for us? Will there be a poor monsoon, political upsets, mass movements and cricketing disasters? And, more important, will there be good food?

Yes, say three top chefs I had a chat with. Watch out for 2013, which will underline new trends. Such as, I asked them. Such as, they replied:

Action

Time was when kitchens were neither seen nor heard. Then restaurants started showcasing their kitchens, with live counters. In the future, says chef Sharad Dewan of The Park, Calcutta, the action will move to the table. “Kitchens have become art installations. Performances by chefs are live. But now chefs are all set to become personal. So, tables will have chefs who will cook for you as per your taste and desire, right there in front of you.” So, don’t be surprised if you find chef Dewan’s team steaming a mutton vindaloo momo or even preparing eichor kalia (jackfruit) shots right in front of you.

Tuna belly

Bellies

Don’t be surprised if you find chefs poring over pieces of meat and fish that you’d been discarding all these years. Chef Ranveer Brar, who has just returned to India after a satisfying stint in the United States and is now with the Novotel Mumbai Juhu Beach Hotel, believes that a cut like the belly will be something that gourmets will zero in on. Pork bellies are already much loved, but people will take to something like a tuna belly with gusto.

“We have a subconscious acceptability of the not-so-common cuts,” he says. “Lamb bellies have been used in Indian cuisine in Lucknow for stews and pouches. Pork belly is the ultimate cut of meat for a pickle, used essentially by the Portuguese in Goa,” he says. The Indian diner’s acceptability of tuna in sushi and sashimi will, he says, lend “a definite nod of affirmation” to tuna belly.

New menus will feature veal, salmon, and lamb bellies — “all rich with fatty flavour, all (not coincidentally) cheap cuts that used to be trimmed away once,” stresses chef Brar.

Wheat, leek, asparagus and parmesan khichdi

More greens

Greens have been on our minds for some years now, but chefs predict that the world of food will become even greener in the coming months. Chiranjib Chatterjee, executive chef of Pipal Tree Hotels, believes that green vegetables increasingly will not be served as side dishes but as an entrée — even for non-vegetarians. “People are being drawn to vegetarianism for various reasons. Some of us want to live longer, healthier lives. Then there are others who want to preserve the Earth’s natural resources or are ethically opposed to eating animals,” he says.

That would mean, instead of the usual sushi — which can endanger our marine life — innovators like chef Dewan will present diners with mochar sushi — sushi prepared with banana flower. And chef Chiranjib will whip up a melon or a roasted beet salad with marinated feta, bitter gourd chips and with a roasted pepper dressing to woo the firmest of carnivores.

Chef Chiranjib stresses that dishes with local greens such as morning glory leaves, laal saag, methi leaves or mustard greens will be a part of many salads. Greens such as kale, collard greens, turnip, Chinese cabbage and other Asian greens will become more popular.

“And these leaves are great for different kinds of cooking. You can stir fry them or braise them or toss them in a salad with some exotic dressing,” he says. “Wild leeks, garlic chives and green onions will be playing a major role in 2013’s exotic tables.” So, look out for his broken wheat, leek, asparagus and Parmesan khichdi — served with a fresh tomato salad and coffee caramelised cauliflower florets.

Organic and local sources

Indeed, organic is a word that has been gaining currency — and will do so with renewed vigour in the coming months. Those who believe in the environment and have strong views about pesticides will demand organic food and local produce that’s not had to travel kilometres to reach their plates.

Mochar sushi

“It makes sense that a particular vegetable grown by a local farmer and never refrigerated will retain more of its delicate flavour than one shipped in a plane from a different country,” chef Chiranjib stresses, pointing out that he has been using something like the local aromatic gondhoraj lebu (lime) and its leaves for his Asian curries, salads, soups and sorbets.

Local ingredients will find their place in all kinds of cuisine, adds chef Dewan, who is area director (food production) of the hotel. “Fresh local produce is going to be preferred over off-season cold storage produce and perhaps even imported stuff wherever possible,” he says. “This not only ensures freshness, but also best prices.”

Hotdogs and burgers

Of course, not all of us are going into the New Year with a halo over our heads — some of us, I am sure, will want our meats and everything nice and fatty that goes along with them. But even here there will be difference. Special burgers and others of the ilk, chef Brar maintains, will occupy the high table.

Bratwurst hotdog

“Hamburgers and hot dogs will go haute,” he says, predicting menus featuring such delicacies as high-end Japanese wagyu beef burgers and foie gras burgers. “And there will be hot dogs with pedigree,” he says. Watch out for his corn bread bratwurst hotdog — with green pea mash, caramelised onion and sauerkraut, topped with sausages.

So, forget all those cricket disasters and political upheavals — there’s always food to look forward to. And here’s wishing you a delectable New Year.

For the tempura: Put iced water in a bowl. Add sifted flour to the water and mix lightly. (Be careful not to over mix.) Wash and dry the flowers. Dip each flower in the batter and put in hot oil. If it loses some batter, immediately add more batter to the flower but very carefully. Fry till they are crisp. The tempura should never be browned too much, so control the heat accordingly. The excess pieces of batter which also get fried may be served as a garnish. Serve immediately with the dipping sauce.

Chef Dewan’s Bok Phool/ Kumro Phool Tempura (serves 4)

Ingredients:

• 25-30 bok phool or kumro phool • 1 cup tempura flour or all-purpose flour • 1 cup chilled water • 1 litre refined oil for frying

For the dip:

• 1 cup water • ¼ cup mirin • ¼ cup soy sauce • ½ tbs sugar
• ½ tsp grated ginger • 1 tbs radish paste

Method:

For the dip: Put mirin in a pan and bring to a boil on medium heat. Add water, soy sauce and sugar. Bring the sauce to a boil. Remove from the heat. Add grated ginger and radish to the dipping sauce.

For the tempura: Put iced water in a bowl. Add sifted flour to the water and mix lightly. (Be careful not to over mix.) Wash and dry the flowers. Dip each flower in the batter and put in hot oil. If it loses some batter, immediately add more batter to the flower but very carefully. Fry till they are crisp. The tempura should never be browned too much, so control the heat accordingly. The excess pieces of batter which also get fried
may be served as a garnish. Serve immediately with the dipping sauce.

Chef Brar’s Pork Belly(serves 8-10)

Ingredients:

• 2kg pork belly • 300g salt • 70g sugar • 1 tbs powdered clove • 1 tbs powdered cinnamon • 1 tsp crushed all spice • 100g saltpetre • pepper to taste • 2 butternut squash • ½ kg broccoli rabe • 200g cherry tomato • 300g white onion • 60ml dark honey • 150ml dry white wine • 1 tsp mustard paste • juice of two lemons

Method:

Mix the spices with salt and sugar. Score the fat side of the belly ¼ inch deep. Rub the mix on the belly and leave it overnight. Scrub and wash and re-season the belly with salt and pepper. Slowly cook the fat side of the belly on a skillet till it becomes crisp. Sear the other side. Cook covered in an oven at 165°-170°C for an hour (don’t remove the fat.) Allow it to rest and then refrigerate. Cut 150g rectangles of the belly and keep aside. Cut butternut squash wedges and marinate with salt and pepper and roast in the oven with the remaining pork fat. Drain and keep aside. Sauté sliced white onions and broccoli rabe. Add white wine, mustard and honey and finish with lemon juice. Add cherry
tomato. To plate, crisp the fat side of the belly and re-heat in the oven at 180°C. Use the leftover sauce for the glaze. Plate and serve hot.

Chef Chatterjee’s This Morning’s Fresh Iceberg, Ginger and Gruyere Cheese Soup with Spiced Popcorn (serves 4)

Ingredients:

• 1 kg crunchy iceberg lettuce • 200g sliced onions • 10g chopped garlic • 25g chopped ginger • 150g grated cheese • 20ml olive oil • 15g melted butter • 20g flour • 1 litre
vegetable stock • 20ml fresh double cream • salt and pepper to taste • 10g fresh thyme leaves

For spiced popcorn:

• popcorn: as desired • 10g Cajun spice • 5g chopped spring onions

Method:

Sauté garlic, ginger, thyme and onion in a heavy bottom pan in butter and oil. Add torn iceberg leaves, sauté them quickly with a bit of flour till they are cooked. Add stock and seasonings. Now add cream and cheese and then blend the mix in a blender till smooth and creamy. Strain the liquid. In a non-stick pan toss the popcorn with butter, spring onion and Cajun spices. Serve hot with the soup.