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Regular-article-logo Friday, 27 June 2025

t2 goes tucking into a feast fit for kings

Rajbarir Khawa Dawa — a Bengali food festival Where: Buzz, The Gateway Hotel On till: July 1 Timings: Noon to 3pm, 7pm to 11.30pm Meal for two: Rs 1,000-plus

TT Bureau Published 19.06.18, 12:00 AM
The a la carte menu aside, there’s also a set meal option, veg (Rs 850) and non-veg (Rs 950). We enjoyed the non-veg platter with dishes such as Posto Narkel-er Bora, Bhetki Chingrir Melbondhon and Roshun Bhapa Bhetki.

What: Rajbarir Khawa Dawa — a Bengali food festival
Where: Buzz, The Gateway Hotel
On till: July 1
Timings: Noon to 3pm, 7pm to 11.30pm
Meal for two: Rs 1,000-plus

It was a warm, humid afternoon when I stepped into Buzz, the all-day dining at The Gateway Hotel. It was my first visit to the hotel and my first exposure to Bengali cuisine.

Nawabi Pulao: This Rajasthani Laal Maas-inspired rice dish cooked with chunks of lamb has a rich flavour with a hint of sweetness. Rs 350-plus

I came with the idea that Indian food is spicy. I was a little worried the night before, apprehending that the food would be overwhelming. I was not sure whether my British tastebuds would take to the new taste in a friendly way. But I was excited at the same time with the prospect of trying a new cuisine, and getting to learn the stories behind them.

Even before the dishes arrived on the table, the hotel’s general manager, Sourav Ghosal, had started filling me in on the history of the rajas or kings of Bengal, who were the first connoisseurs to reform the Bengali cuisine. He also spoke about the Turkish, British, French and other European influences that got reflected in the local cuisine with time.
The hotel has laid out a festival menu — Rajbarir Khawa Dawa— celebrating Bengali cuisine as experienced by the kings of yesteryears.

“Rajbari means a palace and whatever the kings used to have, we will have for lunch today,” announced Deep Mitra Thakur, the hotel’s executive chef.

Each dish was as unfamiliar as expected, yet I instantly fell in love with the new meat, flavours and spices. By the end, I had a bittersweet feeling, with a rite of passage into Bengali cuisine that I only wish had occured  sooner.

Shukto: This one’s a soothing, rustic curry made with mixed vegetables in a creamy, milky gravy. The chef recommended this as the perfect dish to clear your palate before digging into further courses. Rs 500-plus
Monbhora Potol: Pointed gourd stuffed with cottage cheese and nuts, cooked in a silky gravy — this dish isn’t very spicy. The soft texture of the potol was complemented by the flavourful and creamy sauce. Rs 550-plus
Gumo Aanch-er Mangsho: Good things come to those who wait. This slow-cooked Mughlai lamb with the addition of home-ground garam masala and onion was a finger-licking experience. 
Rs 650-plus
Chal-er Payesh: A combination of rice and milk to finish off your dinner, this sweet and fairly light dessert gets even better with the raisins and cashews thrown in. Rs 250-plus

Text: Emily Whitaker
Pictures: Rashbehari Das

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