(From top) the stunning coastline at Ganapatipule; the famed 400-year-old Ganesh Temple; a view of the beach; the picturesque MTDC resort

What’s the ultimate dream for any beach, sand and surf lover? There may be a few who travel to the seaside to watch other people frolic in the water. But for most, paradise is a deserted, undiscovered beach far from the madding crowd that isn’t strewn with semi-naked bodies and beach-umbrellas.

So, should you head to Goa? Perhaps not. Baga and Calangute are hopelessly crowded with holidaymakers from around the country and the world.

Ganapatipule in Ratnagiri district, Maharashtra could not be more different. There’s a breathtaking, clean almost virginal beach. There are no unauthorised hawkers peddling their wares. There’s sand and sea alright, and there’s also peace and serenity, punctuated only by the delightful chirruping of birds.

What are the key points of holidaying in Ganapatipule? Well, you can start the day by walking along a deserted beach. Follow that up with a visit to a nearby Konkan village. And, then just hang around and keep one eye on the pretty sun-drenched landscape. Of course, there’s another reason why you should visit this place ? you’ll find heaps of Alphonso mangoes everywhere because these divine fruits are crucial to the economy of this little town.

Always on the lookout for unusual and interesting places, my antenna perked up the moment I heard about this sleepy beach town. It’s a 350km drive from Mumbai and it’s better to start early in the morning to avoid the traffic at the NH-17. On the way, we passed through Karnala, Mahad, Chiplun and Sangameshwar ? all very scenic and attractive. In fact, part of the fun of going to Ganapatipule is the drive through the Western Ghats ? the chain of hills along the Konkan coast, which looks awesome even with scanty green cover. One can also reach Ganapatipule via Konkan Railway. The nearest station is Ratnagiri.

The scenery changes quite suddenly as you take a turn from Ratnagiri towards Ganapatipule (it’s only 20km from Ratnagiri) as there’s acres and acres of barren land interspersed with mango orchards on both sides of the road. Tourists started coming to this place after the Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation (MTDC) set up a resort overlooking the sea. But it’s better to book in advance to avoid any difficulties.

Adding to Ganapatipule’s allure is the splendid 400-year-old Ganesh (Swayambhu) Temple near the beach from where the town gets its name. Every year during Ganesh Chaturthi locals from the surrounding Konkan region flock to this temple. Interestingly, everybody in Ganapatipule offers their prayers in this temple during the Ganesh festival and don’t keep Ganesh idols separately in their houses.

Walk out of the temple and you’re right at the beach. Here, there are dozens of young men playing beach cricket right by the water. In fact, walking up and down the 2km beach is the best way to absorb the spirit of the place. The pace is slower here, the people friendly and the azure waters of the Arabian Sea, a visual treat. And if you are staying at the MTDC tourist resort, you can just watch the rolling waves from the cottage balconies overlooking the sea. Once the sun sets, there isn’t really much to do except, take leisurely strolls or do a bit of local shopping.

If beach boredom kicks in, you can soak in the many tourist haunts that dot this little town. Close to Ganapatipule is Malgund, a small village and the birthplace of the famous Marathi poet, Keshavsoot. Pawas, an equally beautiful place is also worth visiting for the ashram of Swami Swaroopanand (a spiritual leader who influenced an entire generation of Maharashtrians). Even if Marathi poets aren’t your thing, the villages are pretty.

But perhaps the best excursion is a drive to the Jaigad Fort, about 18km from Ganapatipule. We headed to the fort at about 8am to beat the afternoon heat. As you drive up the road to the fort, the sea is always visible. At each and every curve, there’s a breathtaking view. And there are places along the way where you can park alongside the road and hit the beach. The vast stretches of water lure you to just camp on the beach, sipping coconut water. Thankfully there are no stalls on the beach hawking their fare. Make sure you hire a local boatman if you decide to have a swim.

There’s nothing especially remarkable about the Jaigad fort, which is mostly in ruins today. But this 17th century sea-fort perched on the cliff offers a panoramic view of the sea below with waves lashing against the rocky terrain. We climbed its crumbling walls to get a better view of the sea and also saw the place where the Sangameshwar river meets the Arabian Sea. On our way back, we halted at the Jaigad Lighthouse built in 1832 and the ancient Shiva Temple about 1.5km away. It’s a small temple housing the Shivalinga and during Maha Shivratri, it attracts lots of locals.

Ganapatipule’s major sights done, we explored the area around. We went ambling along to the fishing village and ate at the roadside stalls where the food is scrumptious. If you’re a foodie, try the coconut-based Konkani seafood and if you visit in summer, you should opt for Alphonso mangoes.

Time permitting you can also make an excursion to Ratnagiri. There are two main attractions here: the Thibaw Palace and the Ratnadurg fort. The former is a forlorn building where the dethroned king of Burma spent his years in exile around 1910, gazing at the sea. The Ratnadurg fort is also worth visiting though it’s in ruins today. Inside the fort is the Bhagwati Mandir from where you can watch the coastline below.

There is scope for developing tourism in this quaint little town famous for its mango orchards. But one word of advice: make sure that you fill up on petrol because Ganapatipule doesn’t have a petrol pump. The nearest petrol station is 20km away in Ratnagiri. Apparently, the farmers feel that a petrol pump would destroy the droves of mango orchards here. Don’t ask them what they think about hordes of tourists.

Lead photograph by Sushmita Biswas

Ganapatipule at a glance

• State: Maharashtra
• Distance: 350 km
• Journey time: 8 hours by road
• Route: NH-17 via Vashi, Panvel, Mahad, Chiplun and Sangameshwar
• Rail: Konkan Railway. Howrah-Gyaneshwari Express to Mumbai/Geetanjali Mail/Mumbai Mail. From Mumbai, it’s best to take Konkan Kanya Express, which halts at Ratnagiri.
• Accommodation: MTDC Ganapatipule. Bookings are done from MTDC Mumbai office: 022-22026713. Rack rates: Rs 800 (non-A/C), Rs 1200 (A/C). Krishnali Beach Resort: Tel no: 022-23860918 Hotel Landmark: 022-26354124