It was an extravaganza with plenty of attitude. There was something old and something new and it was all accompanied by heaps of stylish accessories. Delhi’s hot fashion gala, Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week (WLIFW), celebrated style over five trendy days and unleashed a kaleidoscope of colours, cuts and styles on the fashion firmament.

From start to finish it was a veritable orchestra of puffed hems, fitted regal jackets, palazzo pants, capes and very sheer and naughty chiffon and net trousers. Empire-line gowns and dresses ? that have fitted bodices and flow to the knee or ankle ? appear to be a key shape for the season. So watch out for them. The skirt continues to make huge style news and can be worn long or just as you like it. Thigh-grazing mini dresses that are permanent fixtures on international catwalks are lingering on Indian fashion runways as well. And asymmetrical hemlines ? which first made their appearance a few seasons ago ? have now become a defining part of this year’s style sheet. While women can wade their way through plenty, the look for men is pretty much what it was last year.

So take a cue from the ramps. You’re not in tune with style unless you’ve got a frill here, a touch of lace there, a sparkle here and a shocker of a print there. Read on...

Black and white: two-tone effect

Shantanu and Nikhil

The colour bar is looking sombre this season. And so it’s no surprise that some designers have settled for the two stark, yet classic, colours: black and white. Shantanu and Nikhil insist that the colours epitomise effortless chic and their latest collection called Audrey Hepburn Travels To India On A Camel Safari is a medley of the two tones. They have brought the theme to life with camel motifs, delicate kantha work, floral motifs and jaal work ? all in black and white. Accessories such as wide hair-bands and huge bags in startling blacks and whites complement the no-jewellery look.

The simple yet sophisticated colour theme is repeated in other designers’ lines. Anju Modi puts black thread embroidery on white skirts, Tahiliani’s collection is heavy on black what with black tailored shirts, silk jersey blouses, twill silk capri pants and cable knits. On the other end of the spectrum, Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna have settled for pristine whites.

Denim: moody blues

Manoviraj Khosla

In the recent past, designers have been taking denim very seriously. And they are going for every technique in the book to make it the flavour of the season. The once humble fabric is now the stuff of fashion catwalks around the world and is making a hot statement in a variety of ways. It is being stone-washed, bleached and patched before being sent out on the ramp. Sometimes the edges are left raw for effect. Most of the designers appear partial to its texture and have used it lavishly in their collections for men and women: Raghavendra Rathore, Manoviraj Khosla, Ritu Kumar, Rina Dhaka and even Wills Lifestyle. “Distressing denim makes it look worn-out and well-used ? and the look works,” explains Dhaka.

The fabric is a winner as it can be worn by itself or paired with separates in a variety of other fabrics. On the ramps, designers have unleashed cropped jackets that are being worn over jeans (and they go just as well with flowing skirts). Meanwhile distressed jeans also look really good with sexy tops ? in linen or silk. Says Ritu Kumar, “Denim has come to symbolise casual cool and is certainly an integral part of high fashion.”

Romance: whimsical notes

Ritu Kumar

Ranna Gill

The overall mood is of romance ? and everything that goes with it. And top designers showed off a medley of feminine elements ? puffed sleeves, frills, lace fringes, ruching (which entails gathering, pleating or ruffling the fabric), crochet trims ? to emphasise the look. The dominant colours of the season ? the antique pinks, faded peaches, muted greens and beiges ? add to the feminine appeal. Malini Ramani revives the ‘60s look with pretty peasant tops, frilly baby doll dresses and Lycra cowl necks, while Aparna Chandra banks on lace-edged short skirts in pink, slim back dresses textured with ruffles and loads of polka dot patterns. Paras and Shalini of Geisha Designs bring on the Mix Fruit Tart line where polka dots and ruched hemlines rule the roost. Sisters Gauri & Nainika believe women should step out in silken flowing gowns.

Lace dominates the collections of Rina Dhaka, Varun Bahl, Ranna Gill, and Siddarth Tytler (and he adds an exotic touch with flimsy Chantilly lace from France). “The feel is undeniably flamboyant yet feminine,” says Ranna Gill. The dresses of Ritu Kumar had the vintage look too with plenty of crochet in the form of patchwork, skirt hemlines and bags. Crochet is the backbone of the romantic/feminine look and comes in the form of patchwork, trimmings and potli bags. And let’s not forget that white frilly shirts have a charm of their own.

Nets: sheer elegance

Rohit Bal

Rina Dhaka

Sheer is in ? and how. And what better way to go for it than with the excessive use of fine nets. Nets are everywhere and the designers have decreed that the fabric translates into a truly sizzling look. Designer Rina Dhaka adds oomph to the fabric and converts it into sheer trousers made glam with much glitter ? perfect attire for a night about town.

Tarun Tahiliani’s black lace net jackets are worn over chikan embroidered net dresses. The designer contrasts the net texture by finishing the ensemble with silk and satin lining.

While Rohit Bal’s collection for the season is heavy on voluminous skirts (yes, for both men and women), he puts net to effective use by teaming it with royal brocade and velvet. Indian miniature art and Mughal motifs are delicately woven and printed on the fabric. Aparna Chandra too goes for it: take your pick of cropped net jackets that are as feminine as feminine can be.

Digital Prints: go hi-tech

Tarun Tahiliani

Prints are in ? and in their new avatar. It’s time to bring on the tees and kurtas, and pants that have been digitally printed. Tarun Tahiliani has made this technique his hallmark, while other designers too are experimenting with it. Manish Arora has used them in his collection of skirts and jackets while Calcutta-based designer Shantanu Goenka digitally transposes wallpaper patterns and cupids on gowns and jackets.

But here’s what makes Tahiliani’s clothes different: while the march of his digitally-printed kurtas and tees continues, he presents them in a slightly different style. He adds a glamorous touch to his digital images by giving them a generous dose of coloured stones. Silk and georgette get an opulent feel as crystals and stonework fill the digital images.

Colour: going natural

Malini Ramani

After years of riotous colours ruling catwalks, the focus has shifted to a soulful palette for the reigning summer months and the upcoming winter. However, two designers who stand out for their splashy use of rainbow hues are resortwear diva Malini Ramani and the unputdownable Manish Arora who’s mint fresh from his London Fashion Week success. Bright splashes of colour, according to the designers, continue to inspire them. Arora says, “I embrace colour and feel that clashing hues can be put together for a startling effect.” Ramani’s colour bar too throws in every shade of the sunset ? that’s oranges, reds and rusts ? while other staples are fluorescent pinks, yellows and lime green. “Strong, vibrant colours are the perfect accents to tart up this season’s neutrals,” says Ramani.

The two designers stand out because the runways have been filled with nature-inspired neutrals in flesh tones, beiges, browns, in-your-face golds and cappuccinos. Most designers have veered towards neutrals and nude colours in their collections. And often the neutrals melt into classic old rose hues and lavender touches. So it’s time to redo the wardrobe with all of the above as well as sun-kissed bronze, rust, ochre and antique gold.

Embellishments: God’s in the details

Varun Bahl

So what’s adding zing to the ensembles? The answer is almost everything: cutwork, patchwork, hand-embroidery. One hot favourite is metal embroidery in gold and silver threads that usher in the bling factor.

Manish Arora for his part has stunning Kathakali faces and Indian gods embroidered in multi-coloured threads. Other designers have also pulled out all the stops and thrown in sparkling sequins and beads, intricate zardosi patterns and extensive stone embroidery. Luxurious fabrics like silks, satins and velvets are being worked upon with leather details and Victorian lace to add a hint of opulence. And, of course, don’t forget those Swarovski crystals. A battery of designers have opted to keep the bling flag flying by tying up with Swarovski to add a sparkling touch to outfits. On this count look out for Rina Dhaka, Tarun Tahiliani, J J Valaya, Manish Arora, Shantanu Goenka, Kavita Bhartia and Aparna Chandra.

Also, designer Varun Bahl, master of surface textures has not let his fans down this time around. “Accents are imperative for a complete look and lace details, beads, sequins and embroidery are the current front-runners,” he says.

Silhouettes: shaping up

Raghavendra Rathore

Let’s get this straight. Demystified, a silhouette simply refers to the outline of a look as created by the design of the garment and the way it is constructed. This season, it’s a mixed bag of silhouettes: they balloon, they flow ? but above all they cling. They vacillate from the billowing (Rohit Bal’s flowing full-length skirts) to the carefully structured or body-fitting (take a look at jackets by Raghavendra Rathore and Rajesh Pratap Singh). The look is layered at one moment (Paras and Shalini of Geisha Designs love that) but slim line the next (trim dresses are the way to go as far as Rina Dhaka and Aparna Chandra are concerned). By and large, the designer brigade has given volume a miss.

The long trench coat style jacket is around like never before but it stays close to the body (even when it is in velvet courtesy Manish Arora). Other jackets are short and come with the ultra-modern clean boxy look. Bell-sleeves are going on fitted tops, balloon skirts (that are ruched at the hem) are tight at the waist, and corsets are teamed with slinky saris. So, the verdict is: keep it close.

Photographs by Rupinder Sharma,
Jagan Negi and Prem Singh