The corals and reefs surrounding the archipelago makes it a hit with underwater adventurers

The legend is that this is the original Garden of Eden. And it wasn’t tough to believe as we walked under the gigantic palm leaves. The path ahead was crisscrossed by the sun’s dancing rays filtering through the dense foliage. I found myself suddenly believing the Garden of Eden story I had been told by my guide Sindy.

We were in the Vallee de Mai a very special nature reserve on Praslin Island in the Seychelles. This nature reserve is the only home of the Coco de Mer tree — of which more later.

There’s only one word for this archipelago in the Indian ocean: breathtaking. My first glimpse of the country was from the aeroplane window. I saw the sea looking like a dazzling bed of turquoise gemstones and beaches that were like an endless sheet of ivory.

The Lorloz in the town of Victoria is a popular landmark for tourists

Our trip began on Mahe Island, the capital. Our guide Chris who made the trip infinitely more memorable first took us up Morne Blanc to see the tea gardens and factory. Then we went further up to the cool summit which is a viewpoint where lovers exchange marital vows.

Dubbed the ‘Islands of Love’, Seychelles is a popular wedding destination full of spots like the famed Anse Source d’Argent beach on La Digue Island.

The next day we started out at Trois Freres distillery at Takamaka where the famous local cane rum is brewed. We arrived early before the distillery opened but I was quite happy to settle down for a tot of rum at the restaurant-cum-tasting room. Our next stop was the Jardin du Roi, a spice garden, where I walked on pathways flanked by ferns and trees, marvelling at the variety of exotic herbs and flowers.

Our lunch stop was at Marie Antoinette, a restaurant that is housed in a colonial mansion that is also a national monument. The restaurant serves authentic Creole cuisine and I sampled delicious curries and salads.

After lunch, Chris took me to Victoria, the small but buzzing settlement which the locals refer to as ‘town’ — it’s a commercial and residential centre which is a sharp contrast to the otherwise laidback island. I walked around Victoria peering into vibrant markets selling groceries and colourful parrot fish, and lots of high-end stores.

Ambling past the landmark ‘Lorloz’ or the Victoria clock tower, I stopped at a souvenir shop. On display were pelvic-shaped wooden key chains and other mementos. Curious, I asked Chris what it was. This was when I was first introduced to the Coco de Mer or Nut of the Sea, the largest nut in the world and the reason why Seychelles is called the original site of the Garden of Eden.

In search of the Coco de Mer, I left on a boat the next morning for Praslin, the country’s second largest island. Sindy, my sprightly guide picked me up, and we drove straight to the Vallee de Mai nature reserve.

Seychelles is a favourite among fans of destination weddings

This is a Unesco World Heritage Site where the Coco de Mer grows. It’s a unique tree that takes 20 years to reveal its sex. The female tree produces the Coco de Mer which has an uncanny resemblance to the female pelvis, and the male tree produces phallic-like catkins studded with small yellow flowers. This is the only place in the world where this tree is found, and today the Seychelles government has controlled its commercial sale.

Coco de Mer is the largest nut in the world

It was the eccentric British soldier General Gordon (who died at Khartoum) who offered the opinion that Vallee de Mai was the original Garden of Eden. He also believed that the Coco de Mer was the ‘forbidden fruit’ that grew on what he strongly believed was the Tree of Knowledge. General Gordon was an eccentric but he knew what he was talking about when it came to the Seychelles.

My last destination on my island-hopping spree was the Isle of La Digue, the small island where only a few vehicles are allowed. The charming, sleepy island is home to picture-perfect beaches like Anse Source d’Argent. Also a large part of the island is taken up by the L’Union Estate, which was once a coconut plantation and which today is an informal theme park. I ambled through its vanilla plantations and then past the tortoise pens where Aldabra giant tortoises found in the region are bred.

Finally I made my way to Anse Source d’Argent. Not far away a beach wedding was in progress. But I didn’t notice it till someone pointed out a couple of people in beach clothes sipping champagne near an abandoned flower arch — and the bride and groom were part of the group of picnickers.

Soak in the beauty of the ocean on a quiet vacation in Seychelles

I ended my day in the hot sun with a refreshing dip in the lapis-lazuli waters. Then I returned to Praslin where Sindy gave me a pack of breadfruit chips to eat before I left. It’s a popular belief that if you eat breadfruit, you will return to Seychelles. I munched on them till I was certain I had guaranteed my return — for it’s not every day that you find paradise.

TRAVEL TALK

• Getting there: Currently there are no direct flights from India to Seychelles, but the recently started flights to Mahe via Addis Ababa by Ethiopian Airlines offers great deals for fares as low as Rs 25,000 return (www.ethiopianairlines.com) Seychelles offers visa on arrival.
• Where to stay: Seychelles calls for indulgence, and though there are plenty of budget guesthouses, the best place to stay in Mahe island is The Constance Ephelia Resort (www.epheliaresort. constancehotels.com) and in Praslin island, Raffles. (www.raffles.com/praslin)