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Nao Yagi and Hokuto Katso (above) of Mint Design showcased knee-skimming numbers with sheer overdresses worn with vibrant sneakers; Pic by Rupinder Sharma |
They came armed with design blueprints from Shibuya and Harajuku, the famous fashion districts of Tokyo, and stormed the catwalks of India. Their look books boasted of avant garde designs — from pixellated ensembles to ritzy fishnets and sassy dishevelled looks.
Four cutting-edge Japanese designers —Suzuki Takayuki, Kunihiko Morinaga and the designer duo of Nao Yagi and Hokuto Katso — recently came calling on India. The designers, who are all Tokyo Fashion Week regulars, pulled out all the stops and rocked the ramps with baby doll silhouettes, organic fabrics, a play on visual imagery and much on-ramp theatrics.
So, if you simply refuse to look beyond kimonos and edgy Japanese designers Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, it’s time for a refresher course.
In the past decade, Takayuki has garnered a cult following in Tokyo with his signature dishevelled style, while Morinaga has climbed the style-- meter by designing for the iconic Lady Gaga. And Yagi and Katso, both graduates of the famed design school, Central Saint Martins in London, boast of design sensibilities that challenge the dividing line between art and fashion. And what’s more, the two have worked with British-Turkish designer Hussein Chalayan and the late Alexander McQueen.
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A Tokyo Fashion Week regular, Suzuki Takayuki (above) made a debut in India with a line of organic cotton clothing that’s all about multiple layering; Pic by Rupinder Sharma |
The designers landed in India to celebrate the 60th year of diplomatic ties between India and Japan. The Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) collaborated with the Japan Fashion Week Organization to showcase these topnotch Japanese labels on the Wills Lifestyle Fashion Week ramps. Sunil Sethi, FDCI president, says: “It’s about promoting cross-cultural relations.”
Out of the green box: The carefully careless look of Suzuki Takayuki was achieved through empire line/ baby doll dresses, easy-fit trousers, sturdy sleeveless jackets and flimsy, sheer tops. Takayuki’s spring/ summer collection comes only in whites, beiges and blacks.
The 36-year-old designer, with his eponymous label, has been famous for his eco-conscious sensibility ever since he launched his label in Tokyo in 2002. “The emphasis is on the highest quality organic cotton and natural dyes. I want the wearers of my garments to see how my clothes age,” says Takayuki.
A self-taught fashion designer, Takayuki studied graphic design at the Tokyo Zokei University in Hachioji. His collections have been regulars at the Tokyo Fashion Week since 2007.
Currently, he’s setting up a new flagship store in Tokyo — after downing shutters of his old one in Shibuya — besides retailing through boutiques in Hong Kong and the US.
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Kunihiko Morinaga’s label, Anrealage, is all about pixellation and includes pixellated eye-gear, dresses and tights;Pic by Rupinder Sharma |
Going low-res: Pixellation was the focus of Anrealage (pronounced ‘un-real-age’, playing on the words ‘real’, ‘unreal’, and ‘age’). The label was launched in 2003 by Kunihiko Morinaga, now 31, who graduated from Waseda University and Vantan Design Academy in Tokyo.
Morinaga’s brought a completely pixellated look to India — pixellated, floral, knee-length dresses transformed into something straight out of a computer screen, and these were accessorised with pixellated tights. There was more: pixellated neckpieces, eyewear, sneakers and even stubby heels. Says Morinaga: “In this digital era, people are obsessed with clarity of images, but I wanted to pursue the beauty of low-resolution.”
It’s all in the stars: Mint Design epitomises the cutting-edge look you expect from Tokyo and even everyday-wear — like socks — make a huge fashion statement. The WIFW ramps pepped up with funky fishnet socks with neon yellow polka dots, zigzag stripes and chequered patterns.
With their quirky, playful design sensibilities, Nao Yagi and Hokuto Katsui showcased a collection that was about preppy knee-skimming dresses and sheer overdresses, accessorised with plain ol’ Mary Janes and sneakers in bright colours. Their signature style however, is about incorporating their ensembles with 3D lace prints, prints and patterning.
“It’s our label’s 10th anniversary year and to summarise our history we used patterns and prints from the Mint Design archives such as the dresses with prints of lips that we did in the past,” say Yagi who began participating in the Tokyo Fashion Week in 2003 with Katsui. Their flagship store is in Shibuya.