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Brunton Boatyard is a recreated heritage hotel built on what used to be a disused boatyard, Geo Brunton and Sons
The inscription above the arched main entrance says it all: 1506 AD. Fort Kochi's Le Colonial boasts of a long and tangled past and history has been made on the premises. This building was once the home of St Francis Xavier and then the Portuguese and Dutch governors of the region. Legend has it that there's a tunnel to the historic St Francis Church that's right next door, where explorer Vasco Da Gama was first buried. Today, it's a seven-room heritage hotel where guests can take a sip of their tea by the pool and gaze at the historic church next door.
Not far away, if you explore the tangle of lanes radiating o ut of Fort Kochi's Vasco Da Gama Square, you're bound to spot The Malabar House, an 18th-century Dutch colonial residence that's been reborn in a new avatar as a boutique hotel. The hotel's owned by German artist Joerg Drechsel and his Spanish wife Txuku Iriarte Solana, who figured early on that Fort Kochi would be the perfect place for a heritage hotel experience.
A discreet and definitely tasteful battle is underway and it's aimed at upmarket travellers both from India and abroad. Le Colonial and The Malabar House are two among the growing number of heritage hotels in Kochi. 'Right now everyone is in the process of converting their residences into hotels, shops and home stays. I have a feeling the entire town is going to be one big hotel very soon, much like Venice,' says George Dominic, director of CGH Earth, a Kochi-based hospitality chain that owns Brunton Boatyard, a recreated period hotel on the site of a Victorian ship-building yard and the newer Eighth Bastion, both in Fort Kochi.
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A few rooms in The Malabar House come with beds made from pillars reclaimed from old buildings.Pic by Retheesh Kariyam
The allure of Fort Kochi for heritage tourism is not tough to understand. The district's dotted with old and historic bungalows that with a bit of renovation can be turned into spectacularly beautiful and atmosphere-rich heritage hotels.
Take a look at Koder House, a quaint three-storey red and white structure, built almost in the shadow of an ancient rain tree. It was constructed in 1808 by Samuel Koder, an honorary consul to The Netherlands, and has made it to the Indian National Trust For Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH) list of heritage sites. The stories around the hotel are an extra attraction — the ornamentation on the building's wooden gabling is said to have been done in Europe before being shipped to Kochi. 'The property was owned by the illustrious Iraqi Jewish Koder family which migrated to India in the early 1800s. It's very important to tell visitors about the rich past of the hotel, which once played host to viceroys, ambassadors and other dignitaries,' says Vicky Raj, the current owner.
It goes without saying that these heritage hotels are strongly playing up their rich past. At Le Colonial, the staff will tell you about Jan van Spall, the last Dutch governor, during whose time, the property changed hands and was bought by an Englishman. 'We have framed the original sales deed of the house on one of our walls to remind us of times gone by,' says Smita Daruvala of Le Colonial, which is run by the Neemrana Group.
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Le Colonial, an ancient property located next to St Francis Church, has seven rooms named after famous personalities who’ve played a role in Fort Kochi’s history.Pic by Retheesh Kariyam
Each of these heritage hotels has its own stories from yesteryear. A short boat-ride away from Fort Kochi is Bolgatty Palace on Bolgatty Island. This was built by the Dutch and later sold to the British who made it the home of their representative to the Cochin state. In recent years it's being run by the Kerala Tourism Development Corporation which renovated it extensively.
Or, look at the Old Harbour Hotel, hemmed in between Koder House and the avant-garde Kashi Art Gallery, that has variously been a Portuguese hospice, a Dutch residence and home to employees of a tea broking firm during the last 300 years. 'The original Portuguese-Dutch architecture has been restored painstakingly while local architectural features like cement benches with red oxide finishes have been recreated,' says Jude Vibin, general manager, Old Harbour Hotel.
Of course, the historic elements have been carefully played up at each of these hotels. At Brunton Boatyard, for instance, there are portraits of old Portuguese and British grandees and illustrious Indians from yesteryear. Many of the rooms open out onto a busy shipping highway.
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Jewish tourists from across the world drop by Koder House to check out the property. Pic by Retheesh Kariyam
And Le Colonial has just two grand rooms and five superior rooms named after personalities, who have either resided here or played major roles in Fort Kochi's development. The Major Petrie Room, for instance, is named after a senior East India Company officer who conquered Fort Kochi from the Dutch in 1795 and has etchings and lithographs on the walls. And the Jan Van Spall Room has wooden rafters and a wood-panelled bathroom and also a private verandah. 'The property was restored by noted architect Ramesh Tharakan though Francis Wacziarg and Aman Nath of Neemrana as well as Le Colonial's owner John Persenda had a lot to do with the interiors,' says Daruvala.
Similarly, at The Malabar House the rooms come with beds made from pillars reclaimed from ancient buildings. Other suites are outfitted with terracotta tiles, platform beds and even open-air washrooms. Other extra touches include lithographs by M.F. Husain and even Japanese sandals for guests. 'Our premium rooms have perks like no other,' says Mervin Isaac, corporate general manager of hospitality outfit Malabar Escapes, which has six luxury boutique properties and a cruise boat called Discovery.
Meals served at these properties are also aimed at the upmarket tourist who is consciously seeking out-of-the-ordinary experiences. Take Brunton Boatyard's History Restaurant, which offers a menu that reflects influences from all the 29 ethnic communities that have, over the centuries, settled in Fort Kochi — that includes everyone from Gowda Saraswat Brahmins to Jews, Konkanis and Kutch Muslims. 'We have gone into these households and have borrowed traditional recipes,' says chef Ajeeth Janardhanan. So guests might sample Portuguese Anglo-Indian dishes like Fernandes Roast Pork, the recipe of which has been passed on through generations.
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Old Harbour Hotel has variously been a Portuguese hospice, a Dutch residence and home to employees of a tea broking firm since its construction 300 years ago, Pic by Retheesh Kariyam
Others like Koder House are putting their own spin on Kochi Jewish dining. The hotel's kosher restaurant Menorah serves up a raft of local delicacies including mulagirachi, a spicy chicken dish tarted up with tamarind pulp. Another highlight is the Jewish pudding that rounds off every meal in this old three-storey property. 'The local food movement is gaining traction all across the world. Our menu is simply a reaffirmation of this hugely popular concept. It's impossible for travellers to savour Jewish food with an Indian twist anywhere else in the world,' says Raj.
All these heritage hotels are, of course, trying to offer the best of what's called 'experiential tourism'. 'As the luxury quotient is ratcheted up, there are expectations of experiential elements from a vacation package,' says Dominic.
So, other hotels like Spice Fort, another smart property that was once owned by a branch of the Koder family stands out for its Kathakali performances in the heart of its sprawling garden.
And taking the authentic vacation experience to a whole new level is The Tower House, a Neemrana property where a 17th-century lighthouse stood once upon a time. One of The Tower House's specialities is that it offers to organise Cochin weddings for its guests. Everything from rose petals to fireworks could mark your auspicious occasion at a suitable price.
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Bolgatty Palace, built by Dutch traders in 1744, has now been reinvented as a resort and an upscale wedding venue
At a different level, The Malabar House, which calls itself a design hotel, is a showcase for its owner's extensive art collection. In addition, The Malabar House plans unique itineraries for its guests with innovative travel outfit Blue Yonder. 'You can come with us to see how the red Pokkali rice — a saline-resistant variety — is planted in Kerala or check out an oyster farm in Parur,' says Isaac.
Brunton Boatyard also offers new experiences like regular cooking sessions where chefs give guests a quick guide on how to tackle Kerala recipes. The cooking lesson is followed by a tour at sundown in the hotel's motorised boat that sets off from its private jetty. 'No two experiences at the Boatyard will be the same,' says Radhakrishna Shenoi, the hotel's general manager.
The reasons for the boom in heritage hotels in Kochi are not tough to figure out. In recent years tourism to Kerala has boomed — and crucially, the state has been able to attract high-spending tourists. 'Hoteliers always realised the destination's potential for high-end clients. But ever since 2007 the trickle of upscale tourists has turned into a flood,' says Isaac.
Obviously, Kochi is also the gateway to the state's most popular tourist destinations, like Alleppey and Kumarakom. Says S.Harikishore, director, Kerala Tourism: 'Kerala's six key domestic tourist markets are best-connected to Kochi even though there are two other international airports in the state.' Kochi is also a good starting point for tourists who want to try the state's Ayurvedic offerings.
It goes without saying that the price tags at Kochi's hotels are steep. While deluxe rooms at Brunton Boatyard come for Rs 39,500 per night, a night at the Malabar House Suite at the eponymous hotel can set you back by the same amount. Le Colonial with its prized artworks is also placed at the higher end of the price spectrum. During peak season the Viceroy and Jan Van Spall Rooms can be yours for a night at Rs 31,200.
Despite their steep prices, the heritage hotels seem to be prospering. And they're constantly looking at ways of creating the right atmosphere and newer and more exotic experiences for tourists who've been everywhere and done it all.