Samant Chauhan’s Psychic Killers collection flaunts pleated skirts for men

It was a dream run for dandies at Van Heusen India Men’s Week 2010 in the Capital where buffed six packs were flaunted as men strode down the catwalk — ogling and even feeling each other up. The mood was unapologetically flirtatious. So were the collections.

What stood out in the male beefcake parade was clothing that dared to cross over to the other side in terms of silhouettes, detailing and colour. Says designer Wendell Rodricks: “My ensembles are relaxed and soft to touch in a feminine sort of way. The entire collection can be translated as womenswear.”

The collections targeted the fashion-forward male in their over-the-top leather detailing, excessive zips and pockets, jewelled accessories and more. Travel turned out to be a strong leitmotif in some creations. Karan Johar and Varun Bahl paid full-on tribute to New York with ensembles that were attempted to evoke memories of Johar’s frequent trips to the glamourous city for his film shoots. The filmmaker- anchor turned fashion designer officially when he launched the label, Karan Johar+Varun Bahl, in partnership with Bahl at the HDIL Couture Week, Mumbai, in 2009. There were travel bags and other accoutrements for globetrotters.

Here’s a low down of what men can fill their wardrobes with this season (warning: it’s not too high on testosterone).

Feminine details

The humble kurta just got a facelift from Rohit Bal, who dressed his models in anarkali kurtas

Once upon a time men were men until they donned some pretty skirts and morphed into a new avatar. Samant Chauhan, in his collection titled Psychic Killers, (inspired by serial killer Edward Gein and necrophiliac Jeffrey Dahmer) made his models wear skirts that were pleated. If the hem flirted with the knees at times, at others it skimmed the ankles.

The clichéd florals and pretty pastels found their place in collections of Troy Costa who rooted for a beach town look while Manoviraj Khosla’s Sunshine in the Dark line was replete with girly hues like shocking pink, mauve, flaming orange, aqua blue and lime green.

And Shantanu and Nikhil went all the way with full-length gowns and uber-large rosettes in sheer net that were perched on wrap silhouettes in their collection Death of a Tree.

Also, blurring the gender boundaries was Wendell Rodricks who came up with cut out peek-a-boo vests that showed off chiselled torsos.

Kurta

The jumpsuit made a bold appearance in Narendra Kumar’s collection

The kurta got the biggest makeover of all with showman Rohit Bal going for the highly

dramatic anarkali kurta for men. Ruched and pleated, the silhouette was replete with intricately handcrafted embellishments including jewelled brooches. Opulent fabrics like muslin, taffeta, silk, satin and chanderi as well as textures like shredded chiffon, crinkled muslin and quilting added a regal element to the humble kurta.

Interesting kurta silhouettes from Rodricks’ repertoire included kurta shirts made in cotton silk voile, chenille, kurtas woven in cotton-jute blend and sailor-neck kurta shirts. “They have a very textured and luxurious finish,” says Rodricks.

As for Smit Raj Gyanani, kurtas came with a variety of detailing such as pin tucks, cowls and pleats while Anjana and Ankita Bhargav went for kurta inspired shirts with unexpected pocket placements, cowl and drape detailing in soft gauze cottons, hand-crushed silks and pashmina and tussore weave combinations.

Jumpsuits

Wendell Rodricks teamed fire-engine red zouaves with charcoal hued shirts

While the fairer sex went to town last season in edgy jumpsuits, boiler suits (loose jumpsuits) and rompers, men were quick to take a cue this year. “You will see an increasing number of men wearing jumpsuits now,” says designer Narendra Kumar. The working gear made a bold appearance in Kumar’s line in tan hues while Chauhan made a mark with linen jumpsuits in shades of beige.

Sanchita Ajjampur, who made her debut in men’s fashion this year, too paraded boiler suits. She used muslin and jersey and played with warm hues of volcanic rocks. “Rather than returning to its work-wear roots, the once-functional boiler suit is now being interpreted in a new way. The silhouette is relaxed, oversized and can be tied at the waist, mechanic-style,” says Ajjampur.

Pants

Quirky was the name of the game when it came to men’s legwear this season. Bal made a statement with his flamboyant palazzo pants and exaggerated Jodhpurs that ballooned at the thighs. Rajesh Pratap Singh too went the Jodhpur way, albeit with an innovative twist. He presented cargo Jodhpurs in crushed fabrics.

Royal Gwalior: Ode to Madhav Rao Scindia by Smit Raj Gyanani showcased churidar trousers with extensive ruching along the length.

Crotches dropped really low for men in the dramatic zouave pants. Anjana Bhargav and daughter Ankita’s line boasted super breezy lowers that were stylish and comfortable to boot. To create a splash, Wendell Rodricks teamed fire-engine red zouaves with charcoal hued shirts.

Another chic silhouette to make a debut was the culottes — a form of split skirt, or rather, loose, flowing trousers. Narendra Kumar called them ‘baggy Hakamas’ (traditional Japanese pyjamas) and made them in metallic monotones, teaming them with the traditional Japanese wooden slippers. “The metallic colours represent the shine of a Samurai-armour,” says Kumar whose collection was inspired by Japanese filmmaker Akira

Kurosawa’s Kagemusha (Shadow Warrior).(Additional reporting by Arundhati Basu and Chitra Papnai)