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Regular-article-logo Thursday, 15 May 2025

Falling in line

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TT Bureau Published 30.10.04, 12:00 AM

Fashion rained down on the style-conscious in Mumbai with two top-notch designers presenting their latest collections. In Delhi, too, another stylist showcased her take on the season while a high-profile art exhibition had connoisseurs lining up for a dekko

Global takes

The unveiling of J.J. Valaya?s Fall-Winter 2004 collection had it all: rich colours, opulent surface ornamentation and a turnout of Delhi?s hottest party animals. Called Ethnosphere, the collection was a blend of the designer?s couture line, J.J. Valaya, and his pr?t line, Studio Valaya and attempted to capture nuances of cultures across the globe.

The pasha of bridalwear also celebrated four years of his association with Swarovski Crystal Components by showcasing Swarovski?s colour of the moment: khaki. The colour emerged in every line that graced the ramp. The collection was rich with the deep colours of the forest, spice and jewel tones with a liberal sprinkling of pastels and neutral hues such as ivory and burnished gold. Swarovski crystals twinkled from most of the ensembles that he showcased.

The Studio Valaya line came in a variety of fabrics, cut into skirts, blouses, pants and jackets. Mashru, the rugged fabric from Gujarat, was teamed with antique brocade and sheer fabrics and embellished with intricate embroidery inspired by henna designs. In his Shamiana line, Valaya took inspiration from the shamianas of the Mughal period, paying tribute to the art of appliqu? embroidery, fine resham-work, quilting and tassels. Reversible jackets, embroidered saris and jackets for men completed the look. Chiffons, georgettes, organzas, tweeds and silks were the fabrics of the season.

Valaya?s collection of bridal lehngas came on last in an array of colours and heavily-embroidered motifs. The collection was all that Valaya has always been obsessed with: Asia, the Orient, Arabia and of course, Swarovski crystals. So what?s Valaya?s fashion message for winter? Khaki is in and the rough textured look makes a beautiful blend with a smooth silken one.

Colour crush

This season, fashion designer Anjana Bhargav?s latest collection is all about ?Riding High?. And showcasing her designs for fall-winter at her studio in the Capital, she literally had models Jayashree and Charu riding the high horse: the two made quite an entrance astride a horse, which thankfully didn?t indulge in any bucking or rearing.

According to Anjana, the upcoming season uplifts the mood with lots of glimmer and shimmer complemented by a riot of colours. Thus, her collection revolves around vibrant pinks, reds, blues and oranges. While the formalwear comprises saris in eclectic colours and combinations teamed with interesting cholis, it was the bejeweled T-shirt line that scored the most points with young fashionistas. With the emphasis on mix--match, Bhargav teamed embroidered tops with skirts and churidars. And whoever thought kurtis were over and done with, Bhargav?s beige and cream versions complete with embroidery and tassels kept the kurti flag flying high.

Complementing Bhargav?s designs all the way were jewellery designer Anu Chawla?s glittering creations.

Homage to the Highest

Art lovers in Mumbai recently had the rare opportunity to view a fabulous selection of works by some of India?s leading artists. Sponsored by industrialist and avid art collector Harsh Goenka, the exhibition titled ?Sacred Spaces? gave pride of place to works based on the themes of ?Reverence? and ?In the Name of God?.

Speaking on the occasion, Goenka said, ?My association with art has always been unconventional. This exhibition is a tribute to the need for communion with greater powers.?

Held at the prestigious Jehangir Art Gallery, Mumbai, the showing comprised works by 34 acclaimed artists from across India and even overseas. The ?Reverence? section included six shrines and two floor installations and here, Delhi-based artist Satish Gupta?s Buddhist-inspired shrines deserve special mention.

The auditorium gallery on the other hand, displayed paintings and sculptural floor works based on the theme, ?In the Name of God?. Here, acclaimed artist Anjolie Ela Menon?s large exhibit won much praise fusing as it did popular imagery with physical expressions of worship such as prayer flags and sounds.

Other participating artists included Chittrovanu Mazumdar, Paresh Maity, Sanjay Bhattacharya, Laxman Shreshtha and Jitish Kallat among others.

Past perfect

Veteran designer Ritu Kumar showcased her Winter 2004 collection at a fashion extravaganza at the Taj Lands End in Mumbai recently. Drawing inspiration from her very own creations designed back in the 60s, Ritu unveiled a battery of new designs that managed to create a sense of nostalgia.

Ritu began designing in the late 60s, using colours and silhouettes that accentuated the hippie style of the time. Her current collection, despite taking a cue from the bohemian look, is much more cosmopolitan and ideal for today?s woman. Thus, while silken gypsy skirts swirled prettily on the ramp, offering that modern edge to the ensemble were structured leather jackets, hats and boots.

The latter half of the show moved from the soft, flowing silhouettes of spring into the rich hues and textures synonymous with winter. Here, Ritu played around with leather, denim, soft whites and sophisticated blacks with dollops of glitter. For the finale, the designer showcased a bridal line that had all her signature touches. Yet the difference lay in the fact that the collection reflected a feel of Benares? famed handlooms, epitomising the elegance and revival-work that Ritu is so well-known for.

Walking the ramp at the show, choreographed by Anu Ahuja, were a bevy of beauties including Sheetal Malhar, Tupur, Fleur Xavier and Vidisha Pavate.

Photograph of JJ. Valaya show by V. Rajagopal

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