(From top): The American Falls and the Bridal Veil Falls; the entertainment zone of Niagara City; the Horseshoe Falls on the Canadian side

Here?s a quick quiz for armchair travellers: what?s the first image that springs to mind when someone mentions Niagara? That?s easy. People immediately think of the awesome cascade of water that tumbles down in milky white sheets.

Well, that?s both right and wrong. Everyone goes to Niagara to hear and see the amazing waterfalls. But there?s more to Niagara than just the falls. Perhaps, I?m just an easily impressed Indian and I like kitsch, but the entertainment district on the Canadian side is as much an experience as the gigantic waterfalls.

First, a word of explanation. Niagara can be approached from both the state of New York in the US and Ontario province in Canada. But the smarter tourists who?ve done their homework (and who can get a visa), usually approach the great waters from the Canadian side. Niagara City also lies on this side of the river.

There?s something for everyone here. For some there are vineyards with the heady aroma of ripening grapes and the taste of fresh fruit. For families, there are the numerous theme parks where kids can be let loose. And for history buffs there are an extraordinary 20 historical museums and two reconstructed forts where you expect John Wayne to appear at any moment. And there?s the historic charm of Niagara-on-the-Lake, a picturesque village.

Not convinced? For sport-lovers there?re 40 golf courses and the adventure of fishing on Lakes Ontario and Erie. Or, if you like putting your money where your mouth is, there are the casinos and racetracks. And, of course, for newly-weds, it is the honeymoon capital of the world!

We drove from Toronto (about an hour-and-a-half). Our first stop was in the picture-book-pretty Niagara-on-the-Lake. If you aren?t in a hurry, this is a great spot to stop and watch the passing steamer-boats.

This isn?t the warmest part of the world. But amazingly, Niagara is a stone?s throw from one of Ontario?s major wine-growing regions. So, the tour companies have created a Niagara Wine Route as another tourist attraction. We settled for a tour of four vineyards, finally parking ourselves at the outdoor bar in the Pillitteri vineyard and sipping wine.

Once you?ve had a few glasses of wine and taken in the scenery, it?s time to head off to the Entertainment District from where one can hear the sound of the falls. Straddling the boundaries of the United States and Canada, the Niagara Falls is one destination that has never lost its pulling power for tourists.

What can one say about the falls? There are actually three falls, the American, Bridal Veil and the Horseshoe Falls on the Canadian side. Of these, the Horseshoe is probably the most famous and the one you usually see in photographs.

But, no matter what you?ve seen in photos or the movies, Niagara is always breathtaking as you stand by watching the mighty gush of water tumbling down. Water from the four Upper Great Lakes ? Michigan, Huron, Superior and Erie ? empty into the river and cascade over the falls, the height of which is similar to a 20-storey building. The water from here finally ends up meeting the fifth Great Lake, Ontario.

A short cruise on the river in a steamer called the Maid of the Mist is a must (there have been steamer rides since 1834). The steamer goes up to the Rainbow Bridge that connects the US border with the Canadian, closes in on the American side of the falls and then goes straight into the Horseshoe Falls where you?d be drenched by the mist if it hadn?t been for the blue jacket they make all passengers wear. The majesty of the thundering cataract above, the white doves trying to fly against the falls, the high embankments on both sides and of course, the ever-visible rainbow across the river combine to create an awesome sight. Later, at nightfall, the falls are bathed in differently coloured spotlights.

After sundown, Niagara City comes into its own. This is kitsch turned almost into an art form. There is, for instance, the Guinness Book of World Records Museum and the Movieland Wax Museum. Or, if that?s not outlandish enough for you, there?s the Daredevil Gallery about the stuntmen who?ve tried to cross the falls in barrels or on tightropes.

Aimed mainly at children, there are places like Ripley?s Believe it or Not, Dinosaur Park and Ripley?s 4D Theatre and horror houses like Ghost Blaster. Each one of these advertises itself in the most lurid manner. One museum has a life-size car hanging from a two-storey building.

For older folks, there are scores of casinos and bars in the city that never sleeps. After a ghostly figure jumped out at us in one of the horror houses, we decided that casinos were a safer bet and headed to Clifton Hill where they?re located. Casino Niagara is the biggest and we decided to investigate the tower-like building.

As casino first-timers, a steward showed us around and taught us some of the games. We tried our hand at some but came out losers.

One day is not enough to experience Niagara. It is always a good idea to stay the night and head off the next morning on the Freedom Trail, a self-guided tour tracing the journey of 19th century fugitive slaves.

An aerial view of the city is an experience in itself. Besides a breathtaking view of the 54m-high waterfall, one also gets a glimpse of the hundreds of sailboats at the mouth of the river as well as the historic forts that once defended the border.

There?s plenty more: a bird sanctuary, a butterfly conservatory, a horticultural school and the largest maple syrup operation in the world to choose from. I?m told that Niagara is just as charming in winter ? perhaps that?ll have to be another time.

Photographs by Paula Ray and Joy Guha

ROUTE MAP

• So, you?ve been meaning to go on that cruise, right? Well, there?s some good news for you. Come September and Star Cruises will station a liner in Mumbai that will take short cruises on India?s west coast and occasionally stop at Lakshadweep. Star?s cruise vessel can accommodate about 1,500 passengers and the ship is currently plying between Houston and the Caribbean. The company will also be marketing the ship for overnight parties and it expects plenty of demand for this service. What about the east coast? Perhaps, that?s only a matter of time.

• It might be time to start checking the weather charts in Singapore. Jetstar Asia, the new low-cost joint venture between Qantas and Singapore financial company Temasek, is gearing up to launch its Singapore-Calcutta service in the not-too-distant future. The airline has said it will slash two-way fares to around Rs 10,000. There?s already a battle in the skies between Malaysian Airlines and Singapore Airlines for Calcutta passengers, so this should turn into a fierce dogfight when Jetstar starts its flights. Why is the airline looking at Calcutta ahead of richer metros like Mumbai and Delhi? That?s apparently because it?s easier to get permission to fly to the city. Whatever the reasons, a quick trip to the island-state could be just the way to unwind.

• Richard Branson, the one-man publicity machine, touched down in India to publicise his newest service from Mumbai to London. Passengers can now get airborne between Mumbai and London with Virgin?s three-times-a-week service that was launched last week. Virgin?s flights will take off from Mumbai at around 4pm in the afternoons and touchdown in Heathrow at 8pm local time. That?s not the best time to get onward connections but not bad if you want to go straight to bed.

• Indian travellers have never been so spoilt. Air Arabia the UAE-based low-cost airline has just started from Sharjah to Mumbai at the unbelievable one-way price of Rs 3,000. The airline will be flying daily to Mumbai and is likely to have a dramatic impact on fares in the Gulf sector. It?s also looking at other destinations in India in the not-too-distant future. Air Arabia was launched two years ago with the aim of becoming the region?s top low-cost airline.

• Spain?s calling. To spread the good word about the country, the Spain Tourism Board is gearing up to set up shop in Mumbai in the coming months. Paloma Notario, director, New Markets, Spain Tourism Board, promises that the country is a great holiday option as well as a prime destination for corporate travellers. Her advice: head for Madrid and Barcelona. It?s not a favourite tourist spot for Indians ? one reason, is because there are no direct flights ? but Spain got about 85 million tourists in 2004. Further information: TRAC Representations, Tel: 11-23312294 or email: pr1@tracrep.com.

My favourite holiday
Krishna Mehta, fashion designer

I am an avid skiier and have been skiing with my family and friends for the last 18 years. So, ski holidays are my all-time favourite. My favourite ski holiday destinations are Zermatt in Switzerland and Courcheval in France.

Every year, during February or March, we book our tickets for either one of the destinations. I enjoy both the resorts but I tend to favour Zermatt more. We book ourselves for a week and spend all the time skiing. Earlier, when my kids were small, my husband and I used to meet up with friends from Sweden and the US for the trip. Now, however, our kids have grown up and it is usually 16-17 of us doing the annual trip.

Ski holidays are great fun, what with the many snow-capped mountains around. We start the day at 9am with our backpacks and goodies. Once on top of a mountain, we stop for a drink, then ski down and climb another peak. It?s exhausting, but if you love the snow, the crisp air and of course, skiing, then it?s awesome. But most of these places do not allow you to ski after 4pm as the sun goes down. So, after that, it is time for barbecues, more drinks and conversation.