(From top): A tiger in the wilds; langurs; deer and people on an elephant ride — all snapshots from the Bandhavgarh jungle

The redolence of spring was slowly giving way to a cruel summer when I first met a tiger in the wilds. And he roared. Right into my face. The confrontation was unexpected and spectacular and I am still reeling. But, thank heavens, I have lived to tell the tale!

Bandhavgarh in Madhya Pradesh is still considered one of India?s best forest reserves. We had driven from Myhar the previous night with friends to stay at the Royal Tiger Resort at Bandhavgarh, about a hundred kilometres away. Madhya Pradesh roads are temperamental. Vast stretches of excellent highway suddenly turned into potholed nightmares. But the skyline at dusk, even after the sun had set and an afterglow of gold hugged the sky, more than made up for sore derri?res!

Then, the inky black of night took over as we did the last stretch through jungle country, with an occasional hare scampering across the tarmac, a flock of wild fowl flying low across small stretches of grassland and then, finally, a herd of long-horned deer racing through a bubble-bath of yellow moonlight. The mood for things untamed was set at that very moment when the imposition of man on nature seemed to hold no ground. The nearest airport to Bandhavgarh is the airstrip at Khajuraho. Umaria is the nearest railway station after Katni. But the many resorts within the forest reserve help you out with transport once you let them know your mode of travel.

The Royal Tiger Resort has about it a charm that could make any safari special. The tent accommodation had every creature comfort you could think of, from luxurious double beds to private dressing rooms and excellent bathrooms. On a slight promontory, away from the cluster of tents, stood a lone gazebo where guests could relax and read or have a drink. Beyond the gazebo stretched an open-air swimming pool. Meals were served in a common dining room, magnificently appointed. And dinner did not let us down. The best thing about the resort was its warm and courteous staff. Many celebrity visitors had stayed here and gone back charmed. Dhirubhai Ambani and Kokilaben had been guests, along with a smattering of Bollywood stars, foreign tourists and many members of royal families.

We were advised to hit the tiger trail at the crack of dawn but I could not resist a walk in the moonlight. There was something so primeval, so eternal about that night. Dark against the sky towered the trees and above them hung the full-blown moon like a wreck cast ashore by some titanic storm. The air was calm and the only sound came from an invisible chorus of humming insects. The hours seemed to weave their own mystery as I strolled to the edge of the resort where civilisation was slowly smudged out by the feral enchantment of the woods. And then, over the hum hanging in the air like a gossamer net of fantasy, a lone roar broke the spell.

We were up and ready the next morning at 4 am to be confronted by bitterly cold winds, a spray of mist and a posse of jeeps. At the main gate of the reserve, a veritable cavalcade of open Landrovers waited their turn to ride into the wild. Most visitors were foreigners ? nature lovers, photographers with their intimidating tele-zoom lenses attached to cameras and a gaggle of college kids from England who may have heard exotic Raj stories.

Our guide, Sitaram, was a local lad. He seemed quite nonchalant about the forest denizens. When we finally drove into the reserve a sense of exhilaration filled my heart. The trees were ancient and had about their shadows the shelter of unshared secrets. Parrots chattered on their branches. Monkeys and langurs tossed from one clump to the next, fiercely protective about their young.

Further on, as we went deeper and deeper into the forest, skirting a stretch of water stood a pair of antlers gazing at us with disdain. Then came a herd of deer to have a drink but they seemed nervous and ready to flee at the slightest sound or rustle. The wild grass grew almost six-foot tall. Our jeep slowed down and we glimpsed a wild boar scuttling into a thicket. Overhead glided a flock of kites, swooping down now and then to take a closer look at the carcass of a young deer. It had been attacked a few hours ago. We took a closer look to see the exposed flesh on its neck that had been snapped. Sitaram told us in an excited voice that a tiger could be lurking nearby. He suggested we stop for a while and be on the ready. After almost half-an-hour, our patience began running out. Sitaram wouldn?t give up but we asked the driver to move on. Yet there was a sense of disappointment. We hadn?t seen the beast that had dragged us out of bed.

After almost two hours of aimless driving, we were halted by a herd of elephants. The forest ranger was escorting those who could brave the ride to a spot in the heart of the forest where some workers had spotted the king. It was a mad scramble. In the confusion I forgot to take my camera from our jeep. But the journey had begun already and riding a barebacked elephant was, indeed, a feat! Not knowing where such an uncertain expedition would end, an unexpected jerk jolted me out of my thoughts.

And there, before my eyes, in a clump cleared of grass, sat the most magnificent tiger I had ever seen. Unconcerned about the many pairs of eyes piercing it, it stretched out and licked its paws in a great show of languorous condescension. Like a seasoned mannequin it allowed us to ogle, without any signs of irritation. Then, lifting its head high, as if it had had enough, it let out a single roar, bringing, as it were, the durbar to an end. But before we turned, I could see it stare at me directly. The look we exchanged was mesmeric.

I came away with a series of snapshots in my mind. And now, in the mad traffic of Calcutta, I can still see him as soon as I close my eyes ? his flashing tail, his lean, striped mien, his nonchalant expression. I can see his perfect calm hide a veritable storm of ferocious temper. And I think I finally know what the poet means when he says:

?Tiger! Tiger! Burning bright

In the forests of the night,

What immortal hand or eye,

Dare frame thy fearful symmetry??

Photographs of deer and elephant by author

Monsoon magic

Love discount holidays and don’t mind getting wet? Try Goa in the rains, says Arundhati Basu

Let’s face it. Goa during the monsoon months isn’t a patch on Goa during winter. So, why should you pack your bags and head to the seaside when you are sure to be met by grumpy grey clouds and snarling, angry waves?

There are two answers to that one: first, the stormy sea and the overcast sky have a fascinating charm of their own. Anyone who saw the Hollywood flick Monsoon, made by NRI Jag (mohan) Mundhra will understand what that means.

By itself, that might not be enough to lure holidaymakers. But there is an added incentive: the monsoon packages on offer from almost every establishment along the Goa coast. Study the market carefully and it’s possible to get packages that throw in everything from all kinds of extras from meals to free bottles of wine on arrival. At some five stars, they even offer extra courses like basket-weaving.

Starting at the top, the 2 night-3 day and 3 night-4 day packages at the Taj Holiday Village and Taj Fort Aguada Beach Resort range from Rs 8,900-23,500 with complimentary airport and rail transfers, meals, head and shoulder massages and bottles of wine thrown in. If this it still a bit beyond your budget, there are cheaper options: book a week in advance and enjoy a 4 night-5 day stay for Rs 5,555 at the Ramada Beach Resort or a 3 night-4 day package at the Coconut Grove Beach Resort for Rs 3,999.

The state tourism department has also been putting its muscle behind the campaign to lure tourists to Goa during the monsoons. For the last two years it has launched the ‘Go Goa 365 Days’ campaign to promote off-season tourism. Says Ratan Singh Luhara, a tourism department official, “The fact that an air-conditioned room at a resort costs around Rs 500 is a big attraction. Looking at the positive response, we intend to continue with the same kind of promotions in future.”

Regular visitors like model Shefali Talwar describe the monsoon experience in Goa with nostalgia. “It’s sans party madness. And the gushing of the waves and the sound of the rain creates the perfect ambience. Of course there is the humidity to deal with. My hair becomes a mess,” she laughs.

A sight of activity and revelry at year end, Goan beaches in the monsoon present a forlorn picture. The calm and inviting blue sea metamorphoses into a turbulent grey, an intimidating yet enchanting sight. Most of the shacks from the beaches disappear and only a few stay open. “Last time we went, we were sitting in a shack sipping steaming tea and watching the angry sea,” says model Aditya Bal. If you are lucky, you might even spot giant sea turtles crawling on the beaches.

If sitting on a damp beach and taking long walks in the rain isn’t enough, there are other options. Why not set out for some sightseeing? Visit the 200-metre Sakla-Vazra water fall which can be spotted from the road linking Goa to Belgaum via Sanquelim.The hinterland dotted with undulating thickly forested hills is a nature lover’s paradise. You can escape to the jungles of Sanguem Taluka. “The never-ending vista of a thick canopy of green glistening in the sunlight is mesmerising,” says artist Roy Fernandes. A must-see is the cloudy-milky appearance of the Dudhsagar Waterfalls crashing down 603 metres.

It is also a good time to visit one of the famous spice plantations in Savoi, in Phonda. The plantation is filled with fruit trees such as guava, jackfruit, mango, grape and spices like cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg, ginger, turmeric, curry leaves. The walk around the hilly terrain is a heady aromatic experience.

Equally enchanting is an hour-long evening cruise along the Mandovi River from Panjim. Do board the floating casino, the Caravela.

How can a holiday be complete without any mention of food? Try out the tastiest Goan fast food — pork sausages sandwiched in bakri, a type of Goan bread. And seafood is available even though boats only go out on days when the sea is calm. If you have a kitchenette in your apartment, don’t miss out on the throwaway prices at which you can get prawns at the local fish market. And, there is the local alcohol — the cashew feni and coconut arak — to gulp down in generous quantities.

The Goans love the monsoons and celebrate it with Sao Joao, a feast held on June 24 in honour of St John the Baptist. Well-owners throw dozens of feni bottles into their well and young men jump in to retrieve them. The bottles are emptied along with a festive lunch. A long siesta follows. Goan hotels have added a twist to this festival by floating packages for the day. The feast is celebrated by guests who jump into the pool to retrieve feni bottles.

The island of Divar celebrates the Bonderam on the third Saturday of August. A visit here provides a glimpse of ancient Goa with its beautiful villas. The day starts with a flag march with a procession of floats culminating in a dance to the music of popular bands.

There are things to be taken care of when on the roads. First of all transport during the showers is not a dream. You have to look high and low for a cab. So it is advisable to hire one on a weekly basis. And the chance of road accidents also goes up. But then these are general precautions, so gear up and head off for a rainy holiday by the sea.

My favourite holiday

Tanmoy Bose,
musician

I have been very lucky in that my career as a performing artist has taken me across the world. My latest favourite is Morocco, which I visited while performing in the Sacred Music Festival in Fez, 200 miles from Casablanca. It was an awesome trip and I was bowled over by the culture and beauty of the ancient city of Medina, where the tomb of Imam Idris is the main attraction. I visited Morocco along with Pandit Ravi Shankarji and Anoushka and we performed in the festival’s closing ceremony. What contributes to Morroco’s magic is the fact that it is a country helmed in by the Mediterranean on one side and the Atlantic Ocean on the other. Even the food is delicious and I enjoyed digging into native dishes like couscous and tajin. All in all, Morocco is fascinating. I just wish my family was there with me to enjoy it.

nHere’s a happening package that goes easy on the pocket while taking you places. Tourism Malaysia is offering the ‘6-sixer land and cruise package’ for Rs 16,999. The 6 nights-7 days package bungs in 2 nights in Kuala Lumpur, another 2 nights on Star Cruise’s SuperStar Virgo and 2 nights in Singapore. But the downer is that the cost does not include the airfare.

On-board SuperStar Virgo, accommodation will be on twin-sharing basis including breakfast, and when on terra firma, it includes half-day city tours in Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. Since the package is valid till September, tourists will catch the tail end of the Great Singapore Sale while enjoying Malaysia as it celebrates the month-long Colours of Malaysia. Shopping in Kuala Lumpur promises to be fun what with the Annual Mega Sale Carnival on right up to September.

Route map

• Here’s a happening package that goes easy on the pocket while taking you places. Tourism Malaysia is offering the ‘6-sixer land and cruise package’ for Rs 16,999. The 6 nights-7 days package bungs in 2 nights in Kuala Lumpur, another 2 nights on Star Cruise’s SuperStar Virgo and 2 nights in Singapore. But the downer is that the cost does not include the airfare.

On-board SuperStar Virgo, accommodation will be on twin-sharing basis including breakfast, and when on terra firma, it includes half-day city tours in Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. Since the package is valid till September, tourists will catch the tail end of the Great Singapore Sale while enjoying Malaysia as it celebrates the month-long Colours of Malaysia. Shopping in Kuala Lumpur promises to be fun what with the Annual Mega Sale Carnival on right up to September.

• So you are an Internet junkie and travel frequently? Well, Lufthansa has just the thing for you if you fly Business or First Class. Now you can surf the Net rather than sleep or watch a movie when flying Lufthansa. FlyNet, the airline’s latest in-flight facility allows passengers access to the Internet on long haul routes.

All you need is a laptop with IEEE 802.11b-standard WLAN technology as well as the standard settings for public Internet access points on the ground. There are two ways to pay up — by the minute or a flat rate. The pay-per-minute plan has a 30-minute starter package of $ 9.95 with additional minutes costing $ 0.25. If you opt for the flat rate fee then it will be a fixed amount of $ 29.95 for the entire flight duration. On long haul flights of less than six hours, you pay $19.95. Initially the payment can be made by credit card.