Designer Abhishek Dutta recommends smart waistcoats in bright colours for less formal occasions; Model: Abhilash Paul while Medhavini Khaitan offers a different look with pinstripe waistcoats (below);Model: Tanvir

There was a time when no Victorian gentleman would be seen outside his home without his waistcoat below his smartly tailored jacket. Now waistcoats have made their comeback, but in an incarnation that no Victorian gent would recognise.

Consider Bollywood superstar Shah Rukh Khan in colourfully patterned waistcoats on Kya Aap Panchvi Pass Se Tez Hain. There’s also Aamir Khan who breezes in and out of movie premieres sporting this versatile garment with aplomb. Others like Saif Ali Khan, Abhishek Bachchan and VJ Ranvijay look equally at ease with their waistcoats adding dash to their outfits.

No surprises then that waistcoats are making their appearance into many designer collections this season. They can be worn for a formal look or more frequently teamed with a pair of jeans for a more casual effect.

So what would you prefer? Would you prefer the fitted style worn with skinny jeans or with a white shirt? Designer Arjun Khanna, who is a self-confessed waistcoat lover, says “A well-fitted waistcoat can be worn either underneath your coat or paired with jeans.” Khanna has waistcoats in denim, silk, wool and brocades in colours ranging from navy blue, brown, black to orange. Prices are on request. “The idea is to experiment with the cut and turn the waistcoat into partywear which can then be coordinated with jeans or corduroys,” he adds.

If the occasion happens to be a less formal one, then designer Abhishek Dutta says that a trendy waistcoat in a bright colour fits the bill perfectly. He has casual and evening lines that are part of his forthcoming Autumn/Winter collection in fabrics like corduroy, denim, dobby (a mix of cotton and polyester), satin, leather and cotton.

Couturier Arjun Khanna is all for turning the waistcoat into partywear

Dutta’s casual line boasts of digital printed waistcoats that are covered with old photographs of Calcutta. “These come either as backless or with a back and with buckles and buttons on them to enhance the look. There are also corduroy waistcoats with pleated lapels and brooch-like buttons,” he adds. These also come with cargo-style pockets (two on the chest and two on the sides).

Dutta’s evening line has double-breasted waistcoats in satin and corduroy. Embellishments include tone-on-tone appliqués with tattoo motifs at the back, pockets with a flap and also welt pockets (with trimming).

Designer Digvijay Singh’s creations come mostly in khadi and tweed

Dutta has given the waistcoat a revolutionary twist — he has stitched it together with the shirt and it comes without a back. Says Dutta: “I have attached the waistcoat with the shirt so that you needn’t slip it on separately.” His waistcoats cost between Rs 3,000 and Rs 5,000.

For a more relaxed look, designer Medhavini Khaitan has a line of slim-fitted waistcoats inspired by the floral motifs in her Autumn/Winter collection. She also offers an entirely different look with pinstripe waistcoats. The colour palette ranges from sky blue, beige, grey and white in fabrics like heavy linens, silks, and cotton. The price range is between Rs 3,000 and Rs 6,000.

Designer brothers Shantanu and Nikhil Mehra are wooing fashionistas with more experimental styles in muted colours. They are using Indian handloom like matka silk, Benarasi fabric and brocade to give it a more luxurious feel. “Since it’s a stylish outfit for the metrosexual man, we make sure that it is appealing to the eyes,” says Nikhil. They are also giving quirky details in the form of pocket detailing and leather appliqué work on the waistcoats. Prices range from Rs 8,000 to Rs 14,000.

Designer Digvijay Singh believes that waistcoats lie somewhere between casuals and formals. “You can slip on a waistcoat as workwear or team it with jeans or trousers for a casual look,” he adds. Slim- fitted or loose — Singh’s creations come mostly in khadi and tweed.

“My waistcoats can be teamed with ethnicwear like churidars or Jodhpurs,” he explains. To enhance the look, Singh uses different kinds of buttons from ceramic to glass and dokra on the waistcoats.

So if you want to give a new spin to your wardrobe, just slip into a waistcoat and make the season hotter.