(From top): A view of Waikiki from the Diamond Head crater; Lake Wai’au, which is located at 13,000 feet on Mauna Kea; a sculpture at the Pu’uhonua o Honaunau cultural reserve; hula dancers get into the groove; Waikiki Beach is choc-a-bloc with camera-toting tourists and locals

A manta ray night dive is considered one of the top 10 dives in the world. Now, a certified diver I’m not, but the powers-that-be agreed to take me along on the basis of my snorkeling ability. That night, 15 of us took a boat to the diving area and I watched spellbound as the mantas glided around gracefully in the waters illuminated by powerful torches. It’s a good thing these creatures, some of which grow up to 30 feet wide, are harmless because a few came right up to me. Nothing really prepares you for the feeling of being inches away from a ray that weighs over 200kg. In fact, that’s just it ? nothing really prepares you for the many pleasures that a holiday in Hawaii can throw up. No glossy photograph ? never mind how flattering ? can really do justice to the Aloha State up close and personal.

It took a daunting 33 hours by plane to Hawaii. Not for nothing is it known as the most remote group of islands in the world! My first glimpse of the state was of a volcanic mountain rising through a frothy confection of clouds. This almost immediately gave way to the clear azure sea. As I passed one island after another, this scene was replayed to breath-taking effect. Hawaii is a group of small volcanic islands formed in succession a few million years ago. It comprises four big islands ? Kauai, Oahu, Maui, the Big Island ? and a host of smaller ones. Each of these has its own attractions and is well worth a visit, but since I’d just 14 days, a week each in Oahu and The Big Island was all I could pack in.

I first touched down at the Hawaiian capital of Honolulu on the island of Oahu. This is home to the famous Waikiki Beach, a beachfront avenue crammed with five-star hotels and designer boutiques. Waikiki almost felt like little Tokyo given its hordes of Japanese tourists and innumerable sushi joints ? not that I’m complaining since I love Japanese food. A while later, I took a short bus ride to Diamond Head, a 1,200-feet high crater that overlooks Honolulu and Waikiki. The trip to the top of the crater is a steep one-mile trek, but is worth the effort, for the view is to-die-for!

I began my walking tour of Honolulu at the statue of King Kamehamea I, the first king to unite all the Hawaiian Islands more than 300 years ago. Opposite the statue is Iolani Palace, the residence of King Kalakaua IV and his sister Queen Liliuokalani, the last monarch to rule over Hawaii before it became an American state. Take a guided tour of the palace to soak in some Hawaiian history.

The next day I hit the morning bazaar in Chinatown, which is reminiscent of Hong Kong’s narrow markets. A short walk away is the Honolulu Academy of Arts, one of the most beautiful museums I’ve ever seen. Housed in a striking classical styled mansion, the various courtyards open to galleries devoted to Pacific, Asian, European and American Art.

While there’s plenty of action within the city, there are several attractions outside Honolulu as well, and the easiest way to get around is to rent a car. You can do a whirlwind tour of the entire island in less than four hours. I started by driving west to Pearl Harbour, where the US Navy has built a memorial to mark the sinking of Battleship Arizona. More than a thousand lives were lost on this ship during the Japanese bombings. There is a small museum that covers the history of WWII and includes a free ferry ride to the memorial built over the sunken ship. I managed to visit the Battleship Missouri on which the surrender of the Japanese forces was formally signed in Tokyo Bay, marking the end of WWII.

It’s also a good idea to drive eastwards from Waikiki, up the shore of Oahu. Hanuma Bay is a hub for snorkeling enthusiasts as the coral reefs here harbour hordes of colourful fish. Driving up the island, I also passed the beautiful Sandy Beach, famous for its sunbathers and body surfers, and Kailua Beach, which was choc-a-bloc with windsurfers. North Shore, at the head of the island, boasts some of the biggest waves off the coast of Hawaii and during winter, the 30-foot-high waves attract the top guns in the surfing world.

The second week of my Hawaiian odyssey began at Kona, one of the two major cities on Big Island. This is the largest of the Hawaiian Islands and is a 45-minute flight away from Honolulu. Driving north from the airport, I reached Kohala with its exquisite resorts and pristine beaches. Further ahead lay Waipio Valley, Hawaii’s cowboy county, and a perfect setting to enjoy a leisurely horseback ride. It also proved a good place to stop for the night.

The next morning, I was treated to some mountain magic courtesy Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea, the two highest peaks on the island. Mauna Kea, at nearly 14,000ft is home to some of the world’s largest telescopes and astronomers head here from all over the world. I parked my car at the Visitor Center at 9,000ft and trekked up to the summit, following the eight-mile Humu’ula Trail. The views of the barren moon-like landscape were breath-taking and at the end, I was rewarded with the sight of Lake Wai’au at 13,000 feet.

I drove down to Hilo, the other big city on the island, to rest for the night. Hilo on the windward side of the island is the wettest place in the US and you can safely bet on getting drenched at least once. I chose to spend the night at a bed and breakfast run by a friendly family.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is a short drive from Hilo and is easily the most popular attraction on the island. The park is the home of Pele, the Hawaiian Goddess of Fire, and locals believe that she resides in the still- active Kilauea Caldera. I start by walking down to the Little Kilauea Crater, formed after a fiery eruption 30 years ago. Steam still emanates from the cracks beneath. I also walked into a deep lava tube, which stretches on for nearly half a mile. Later that night, I even saw molten rock flowing into the ocean amidst billowing spirals of steam ? an intimidating and awe-inspiring reminder of nature’s power.

After my explorations at the National Park were done, I headed back to Kona well in time before my very first luau at the hotel. A luau is a traditional Hawaiian feast complete with hula dancers. That night, the luau menu boasted kalua pua (roasted pig), poi (fish paste) and haupia (heavenly coconut pudding) among other delicacies.

The next morning took in a culture caper. I visited Pu’uhonua Honaunau, a beautifully-maintained cultural reserve south of Kona. With its tall palm trees and sea turtles, this bay was once home to the Hawaiian alii (or ruling class). It was also a place of refuge for people who’d broken the tapu (sacred laws), the penalty for which was death. Being pursued by warriors, they’d swim across shark-infested waters to reach this sanctuary, where a priest would grant them amnesty. I also used the free time to shop around in Kona, which is much cheaper than Waikiki and a good place to buy souvenirs and jewellery.

My holiday in Hawaii was fast drawing to a close. Two weeks were not nearly enough to take in every aspect of what makes up the beauty of the islands. I hadn’t visited the dramatic cliffs in Kauai nor seen the incredible vistas of Maui. I hadn’t had surfing lessons nor sighted a whale. I also had not ? and this one I really regret ? summoned up the courage to meet up with a beautiful native. But then again, I console myself, that’s just one of the many reasons for me to return to these distant yet delightful shores once again!

Photographs by the author