What’s the best birthday treat that an adventure and spa junkie can ask for? Obviously, one that features both of the above (cakes and parties be damned). And when my special day came tripping along this year that’s exactly what I found myself doing — in Bali no less. A breathless two-hour rafting excursion down the Telaga Waja River followed by a Balinese massage at a top spa qualified as my kind of celebration.

But then, everything in Bali, right from the touchdown at the airstrip (you can mistake it for a water landing!), is anything but ordinary. Denpasar city, the capital of Bali is just a three-hour flight from Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia.

Bali, the most popular of Indonesia’s 13,000 islands, was a revelation. While the lush greenery — a constant across the 5,780sqkm of the island — makes one feel completely invigorated, the friendly locals make you feel instantly comfortable. So, it’s not surprising that it attracted four million tourists last year! The Australians, Dutch, Americans and, now, an increasing number of Indians arrive here lured by its beaches and swinging nightlife.

We headed south from Ngurah Rai International Airport, Denpasar, for about half-an-hour to reach Jimbaran. Dubbed as the Beverly Hills of Bali or Millionaire’s Row, it’s home to lavish five-star resorts and high-end residential villas.

Our guide told us that though an island, Bali isn’t compact. Travel time between its cities and myriad villages can be over three hours. The drive to the hotel took us through areas with not-so-tall buildings. The guide explained that no building in Bali can be built taller than coconut trees (that’s 15m or 49ft high) and must include Balinese elements. He promised drives by lush green paddy fields, coconut trees and banana plantations. We were told to hold our breaths for the active volcanoes and beautiful beaches that we would be led to in the coming days.

Unlike the rest of Indonesia which is predominantly Muslim, the majority of the population in Bali is Hindu. The Balinese follow a distinct version of Hinduism, which, though similar in many respects to ours, is also unique. For one, their offerings at temples can go from flowers to toffees/chocolates while the Balinese are robust beef-eating Hindus.

We checked in at the beautiful Sintesa Hotel, which is just 15 km away from both Kuta and Seminyak — prime beach resort destinations known for their party-centric atmosphere and amazing surfing and watersports.

The next morning dawned bright and clear and, after a hearty breakfast, we were on our way to Uluwatu Temple or Cliff Temple in Pecatu Village about 40 minutes away from Jimbaran.

The undulating road winded its way through villages and paddy fields, single-storeyed houses with thatched roofs and temples. Flanking the road were workshops of wood and stone artisans who could be seen chiselling away at the local stones to carve massive Buddha stone-heads and sculptures, while others carved on beautiful furniture. We couldn’t resist stopping at small shops selling silver jewellery and batik cloth to watch the artisans making them.

We arrived at the temple, which is spectacularly located on a cliff-top at the edge of a plateau 250ft above the glittering blue sea. This temple is special as it’s where tourist love to catch the Kecak dance performance every evening, against the backdrop of a setting sun. (Bali is said to have over a 1,000 temples of which we could visit just four, including the Pura Besakih temple with its spectacular carvings on the slopes of Mount Agung.)

Now that I was in Bali there was no way that I would miss out on a visit to a coffee plantation. Known for its coffees, especially Luwak, one of the most expensive coffees in the world, we made our way to Jambe Asri Agro Tourism and Coffee Plantation in Gianyar. A pebbled path was bordered by plants as varied as lemon grass, bananas, herbs and, of course, coffee. I tasted 20 varieties of tea and coffee with variations as exotic as mangosteen tea and coconut coffee, all on the house. But the freebies ended at the famous Coffee Luwak — which was for 50,000 Indonesian Rupiah (around $4).

Though I’m an adventurous foodie, sipping on coffee made with coffee berries that have passed through the innards of a civet cat is a bit extreme — even for me. But sipping on sweet-tart Rosella tea while I gazed at verdant forests was certainly up my alley.

The Balinese love to capitalise on drop dead gorgeous island views. On another day, lunch was at The Lake View restaurant near Mount Batur, an active volcano which has a caldera (a volcanic depression or crater) lake. The volcano last erupted in 2000, but the darkened path of the lava overgrown with foliage is visible even today. The thought of a possible eruption had a shiver run down my spine.

From beaches to misty mountains, Bali has them all. Leaving behind the tropical heat we drove up for two-and-a-half hours to Lake Bratan, 1,200m above sea level. On the shore of the lake we went exploring Pura Ulun Danu Bratan, a major Shaivite and water temple. No sooner had I reached the entrance that my guide for the day asked me to whip out a 50,000 Indonesian rupiah note, leaving me befuddled. The note, it transpired, bears the image of the temple. Clicking a picture at the temple while holding the note, is considered a given.

Water was central to many of the memorable things that I did during my island stay. A sunset dinner cruise with the Bali Hai Cruises took us around the Benoa Harbour. We took the Bali Mandara toll road which cuts through the sea to reach Benoa. The boat left just as the sun was setting. The two-hour cruise throws in a buffet dinner and live cultural performances ($60 for adults and $40 for children).

So, what was the high point of my trip? Well, rafting on River Telaga Waja most certainly. The river, which runs through the Muncan village, wasn’t too deep, but there were enough rapids to throw us off balance (thankfully not enough to dunk us in the water!). Lush green forests, banana plantations, rice fields swept past as we went down the river for a good two hours.

And there was only one way to end the day: A relaxing Balanese massage at Anika Spa in Kuta. As birthdays go, this was perhaps the most memorable.

READY RECKONER

• How to get there: Air Asia and Silk Air have one-stop flights from Calcutta to Denpasar, Bali.

• Where to stay: Sintesa Hotel and Four Seasons at Jimbaran are in the quieter areas. Ramada 
Bintang Bali Resort at Kuta is closer to the nightlife.

• What to do: Go rafting, visit temples, catch cultural shows and shop till you drop. Then relax with a Balinese massage.