Drawing from the Shekhawati cuisine of Rajasthan, ITC Sonar has put together a pop-up menu that redefines one’s understanding of the land that is famous for its Dal Bati Churma.
With thalis curated by master chef Kailash Meena of ITC Sonar, the festival focuses on the diversity of Rajasthani cuisine and is available for dinner for the next two weeks.
“Shekhawati offers a wealth of unique and authentic flavours crafted by Kailash maharaj, using traditional methods of preparations with ingredients sourced from the state,” said Atul Bhalla, area manager east, ITC Hotels & general manager, ITC Sonar.
What: Shekhawati pop-up
Where: Pool Cafe, ITC Sonar
On till: September 28, 7pm to 11.45pm
Meal for one: Rs 1,800-plus
The traditional starters have been given a twist, with items such as Paneer Ka Soole (escalopes of cottage cheese sandwiched with mint chutney, marinated with seasoned hung curd), Sangri Ke Tikki (dessert beans mashed and flavoured with Mathania chillies) and Matar Panifal Ki Chaat (fresh green peas and water chestnuts tossed with chaat masala). The winner on this platter is the mint chutney that comes in a tube!
A special tasting session was held at Pool Cafe on September 12 with foodpreneur Manjri Agarwal and nine other ladies from the Marwari community. (From left in back row) Vasundhara Mantri, Shradha Murarka, Mitakshara Kumari, Anu Jalan, Kamna Saraf, Sumedha Saraogi and Pooja Goenka. (From left in front row) Gitanjali Khemka, Manjri and Neha Kasliwal Arya. “The menu has taken the traditional elements into account and they have also modernised a few things, like they have made tikkis out of Sangri and a chaat out of Panifal. They have incorporated paneer as it is very popular here, therefore catering to the local community. All my friends here today said that they went back in time when they were dining here and what is food if it can’t evoke memories!” Manjri said.
Manjri Agarwal and maharaj Kailash Meena decode Shekhawati cuisine for t2
For the uninitiated, tell us about Shekhawati cuisine…
This is a Marwari cuisine, predominantly from Jaipur and the region around it, and probably one of the most popular cuisines from Rajasthan. Some of the highlights are Dal Bati Churma, Bajra Ki Khichdi, Gatta and Missi Ki Roti, which are now available all over and are found in almost every Marwari home. It’s easy-to-make food that we have all grown up eating and is very close to our hearts. We can relate this food to our childhood, our families and our ancestors. These are recipes that have been passed down within our families for generations.
Do the geography and the topography of the land have something to do with the food?
Rajasthan is mostly a desert with very dry climate. So whatever food is made there is meant to stay for long as the original community was nomadic and would travel a lot. Most of their food does not have a lot of green vegetables because they did not have access to it, so a lot of it is wheat-gluten, besan, tomato-and-onion gravy and a lot of ghee that is a source of energy and protein as it is essentially vegetarian.
What are the dominant flavours and ingredients?
It’s a lot of khara masala like cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, Mathania red chillies and turmeric. Even now, a lot of Marwari families get their spices from Rajasthan because they are dried and ground over there and it’s not the same as the ones available here. We use a lot of Mangori and dried fruits (like almonds, pistachios and cashew nuts) and the region’s vegetables.
Has the cooking style evolved or been modernised?
The techniques are the same but they have been tweaked to make the food more accessible. We used to make Bati in a natural oven made of coal and cow dung on the floor but now we make it in an oven.
Does the cuisine factor in health?
Gluten-free and dairy-free options are doable. This food is convenient for the Rajasthani climate but when made in Calcutta, we go easy on the ghee and butter. Moreover, this traditional menu is now restricted to occasions as it is an indulgent affair.
Text: Anannya Sarkar
Pictures: Arnab Mondal
