PROFILE

Designer Anargha Chowdhury is tuned into the city’s fashion pulse. The 28-year-old creative head and co-owner of Anjali Jewellers launched a new line of fashion jewellery in Calcutta last September. Nnoni, his brand new line, aims to woo women of all ages with offerings in silver and pearl as well as easy-on-the-pocket costume jewellery.

“I feel I have an instinct for designing the kind of jewellery women want,” says Chowdhury.

He was just 12 years old when he started frequenting the family store with his mother Anannya, a talented jewellery designer herself. The La Martiniere student spent most of his weekends picking up the nuances of jewellery designing and dealing with clients.

He learnt on the job and began designing for Anjali Jewellers when he was all of 13 years. When an inspiration for a new design would strike him, he’d simply reach for the nearest sheet of paper and draw it out immediately. The designs would then be executed by his karigars. “I had hands-on training and even today I feel that I’m still learning,” says the self-taught designer.

Though he’s still designing for Anjali Jewellers, Chowdhury is trying his hand at something new and far removed from the traditional gold and diamond jewellery associated with the brand. Says Chowdhury: “The market for fashion jewellery is booming and is yet to be tapped by jewellers. The idea behind Nnoni was to give women jewellery that is stylish yet inexpensive, so they can wear it anytime, anywhere.”

Since he opened the first store, he’s been on an expansion spree and now there are 11 Nnoni stores in Calcutta and around. In the near future, Chowdhury plans to open Nnoni stores in Orissa, Bihar, Jharkhand and Assam, before setting up shop overseas.

You could say that the designer is indeed going places. For the last six years he has been showcasing his designs at The North American Bengali Conference or Banga Sammelan organised annually by Bengalis living in the US. The exhibitions are organised in different US cities each year and this year’s show was held in San Francisco. “We’ve had a phenomenal response in the US,” says Chowdhury.

Chowdhury has catered to many celebrity clients over the years, but he cherishes his experience of dealing with the Bachchan family. He met Jaya Bachchan before the much-hyped Abhi-Ash wedding. “I was very nervous but had faith that my decade-old training would see me through,” he says. She chose a pair of beautiful golap pata balas — or gold bangles carved with blooming roses that cost about Rs 2.5 lakh — which Jaya’s mother presented Aishwarya as the nazrana.

Trends

Chowdhury does not believe in specific trends when it comes to jewellery. “A woman should always wear jewellery that complements her personality. Fashion, I feel, is a very personal statement,” he says.

But going by what’s in, people are choosing designs which are traditional but lightweight. His designs for Nnoni range from the contemporary to the traditional. Take the chic silver bracelet he has designed, which appears to have been made of a mesh of silver wires. Or even the pearl necklace with its shield-shaped pendant. The pendant has white and gold meenakari work, an example of the age-old Rajasthani Thewa work.

For those who like to flaunt heavy stuff, there are costume jewellery bridal sets complete with stone-studded necklaces, bangles and earrings.

PROducts

The silver section of Nnoni showcases sets (a necklace and earrings) that are both chic and unconventional. Ranging anywhere between Rs 1,200 and Rs 10,000, the pieces reflect tribal and antique designs. An eye-catcher here is the intricately carved heavy kangan like those worn by Odissi dancers. It costs about Rs 8,000, while the silver-wire bracelet costs Rs 4,800. An amethyst pendant and earrings set is tagged at Rs 900.

Chowdhury uses a lot of real stones but manages to keep the prices low. Check out the teen lahari set which has three long pearl strings with two ruby and emerald-studded flowers attached on the sides. This can be yours for Rs 6,800. An unusual piece is the Chinese pearl necklace set with a pendant of black Macao stone embossed with the bust of a woman. With a pair of earrings thrown in, expect to shell out Rs 2,250 for it. A Thewa set meanwhile, comes for Rs 1,500.

The brand’s costume jewellery is made of an alloy of copper and silver with gold plating, and set with precious, semi-precious or lab-made stones. The prices start at Rs 750 and the most expensive are the kundan sets that come for Rs 25,000.

A showstopper here is the chunky choker-style necklace heavily studded with uncut emeralds, rubies and American diamonds and lined by dangling large red and green stones. This one comes for Rs 6,500 along with a pair of earrings and a tikli. Bangles studded with American diamonds, uncut rubies, pearls and emeralds or kundan, cost between Rs 1,100 and Rs 3,000 per piece. Rings set with stones cost between Rs 400 and Rs 1,000.