A biryani buff who likes it with the aloo, Novotel Kolkata’s new executive chef Thomas Joseph shares with t2 his plans to take Bengal food to an international platform. 

Your idea about Bengal’s food?

Since my parents used to work, I was sent to a day care centre run by Bengalis (in Ranchi), where I acquired the taste for Bengali food, eating khichuri and fish curry.

Bong food you like?

I am a pure non-vegetarian but I like begun bhaja, chorchori, aloo dum, aloo posto. The Bengali-style deemer jhol (egg curry) is my favourite. And I absolutely love Bengali sweets.

Do you have a sweet tooth?

Definitely. One Sunday I had only sweets for lunch at a sweet shop in New Town. I started with rosogolla, then ate sandesh, then chomchom....

Any Calcutta street food you’ve tried? 

I had the phuchka here. It is better than the Mumbai and Delhi version. I also liked the kati rolls. 

Five things you like about Calcutta...

• First, people here genuinely like food. They enjoy eating. They don’t mind oily and fried food. 

• Second, Calcuttans are very helpful. They are willing to communicate, even if that means a mix of Bengali, Hindi and English.

• Third, the women here dress up very nicely and respect themselves.

• Fourth, during festivals like Holi and Durga Puja everyone is so excited to be with their families. For any festival in Bangalore, they see it as an excuse to leave the city.

4Fifth, people here are well travelled. That way they know how food in different parts of India tastes.

Which city has impressed you the most with its food? 

You will say I am flattering, but honestly I find Calcutta amazing in terms of food options. People here want to impress you with their food. Have a sandesh from this shop, rosogolla from that shop, try the jilipi there, mishti doi here... they are proud of their food. And the variety and quality of food justifies their pride.

Five must-visit places to eat out?

Not just five, there’s so much to explore. I will buy 
The Telegraph Food Guide and make sure that I visit all the places (laughs).

Your aim as the executive chef at Novotel?

People who come from outside are not much aware of Calcutta food. Bengali food is not the only thing about Calcutta. There is Anglo-Indian food, Tangra Chinese, street food… different aspects of Calcutta food. My aim would be to reach out to them and show them how Calcutta food is. I would also want to promote French cuisine. 

What do you plan to bring to the Novotel menu?

I will try to connect the local Bengali culture to the French culture in terms of food. For our international guests, I want to promote Bengali desserts. When you go to Switzerland you bring back chocolates. From Dubai you get liqueur bottles. Coming from Bengal, it should be sandesh or something Bengali. Mishti is the best choice. 

What international food trends can we expect here?

I would encourage food with wine pairing and also promote more formal sit-down dinners to create a market for people who feel a little overwhelmed with loud music of the disco culture. Live cooking and barbecue will be seen frequently. I would want to promote actual meat taste, where we will reduce the spices so that you can taste the meat with its actual flavour. For example, many people think chicken is tasteless. It’s not true. If cooked properly without letting spices and oil mask its flavours, you can experience its original taste. Don’t think I will serve raw meat though! 

Will you introduce Kerala food?

Yes, I will bring some Kerala food to the menu as well. Definitely Fish Moilee. 

Are you a chilled-out chef or a terror at work?

Well, you need to understand a chef’s job for that. Suppose you have ordered for a fish. My stopwatch starts. Your fish has to be on the table maximum in 20 minutes. Nothing can go wrong. But in those 20 minutes other guests will also place their orders. So unless you are a master of Zen, you can’t keep cool. You have to be on your toes.

North Indian food vs south Indian food. Where do you stand?

Calcutta is where? (Laughs) Well, nothing like that. If I have to order I will start with a tikka, then will have a Malabar biryani. Biryani is my favourite! I don’t like Hyderabadi and Awadhi biryani though. I like the Malabar and Calcutta variety. They are not overwhelmed with keora or ittar.

Do you vote for the aloo in Calcutta biryani?

I like it. It should be there. The aloo helps in digestion. 

Who are your worst critics?

My daughters. They make honest comments. They know so much about food because of these TV shows!

Talking of food shows on TV, what’s your take on them? 

Well, these shows have certainly made this generation aware of food in a much wider sense. My children know about 10 varieties of cheese. I knew only Amul cheese (laughs)!

Sibendu Das
Pictures: Rashbehari Das and Sayantan Ghosh

 

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KNOW YOUR CHEF

Originally from: Alleppey, Kerala. 

Grew up in: Ranchi

Studied in: IHMCT (Institute of Hotel Management and Catering Technology) in Kovalam

Worked at: The Leela, Mumbai; JW Marriott Hotel, Mumbai (actively involved in the opening of the Lotus Cafe); Vivanta by Taj, Kovalam; The Oberoi, Mumbai; The Leela, Kovalam; The Lalit Golf & Spa Resort, Goa; Movenpick Hotel & Spa, Bangalore.

Celebs he loved cooking for: Richard Branson, Salman Khan, Abhinav Bindra

Comfort food: Biryani; roti-and-chicken curry

Cheese he loves working with: Emmental, Parmesan and Gorgonzola

Fave drink: “I drink everything but when left to myself, I am an Old Monk person”

Food philosophy: Eat local. “Meat, fish and greens will always be preferred local. Plus, I will try to incorporate condiments like kasundi into international cuisine”