In a quiet bylane of south Kolkata’s Purna Das Road, tucked behind flowering garden hedges and shaded by trees, stands Kimli — a 25-year-old Chinese restaurant that has long been a local secret. With its modest decor and generous portions, Kimli doesn’t just serve food — it serves nostalgia. Owner Payel Bose shares the journey of the past two decades, as she plans upgrades while sticking to old-school dining.
Kimli was established in 2000, a time when Tangra-style Chinese food was riding a wave of popularity. “There was a huge craze for Tangra Chinese. People loved it, but in south Kolkata, there was nothing that matched that flavour,” said Payel. Spotting the gap — and sensing a Bengali’s eternal love affair with Chinese food — her father, Pratik Bose, teamed up with a Chinese home cook from Bentinck Street, Mr. Lee, and together, they set up Kimli in a garden space at their home. What began as an ambitious experiment soon grew into a household name.
Payel with mother Ratna Bose
Initially managed by Payel’s mother, Ratna Bose, Kimli remained a family-run operation for two decades. But it was the COVID-19 pandemic that brought about a turning point. Payel shares, “After the lockdown, my mother felt unsure about reopening. But I told her, ‘Let’s not stop. Let’s give it a try.’” That quiet determination slowly drew Payel into the fold full-time, and by 2022, she had become the second-generation torchbearer of Kimli.
Mixed fried rice, and duck in black bean sauce
While staying true to its roots, Payel has gently ushered Kimli into a new era. “People my age started telling me that Kimli food is amazing, but it’s not modernising. Our customer base was aging — we had to evolve,” she said. But evolution, for Payel, didn’t mean giving up on flavour. It meant refining it. She focussed on quality — replacing dense maida-based batters with lighter coats, ensuring chicken was the hero of a dish and not its deep-fried shell, reducing oil, and cutting out MSG. “Because the food was so tasty, people didn’t complain before,” she laughs. “But I knew we could do better — and healthier.”
Kimli’s menu has more than 400 items inspired by Tangra-style fare
Kimli’s sprawling 400-item menu might sound overwhelming, but loyalists know exactly what to order. The bestsellers? Classic chilli chicken and mixed fried rice, of course — staples that still reign supreme in Payel’s sales charts. But it’s the red pepper series — an in-house innovation — that has become Kimli’s unique signature. “Our red pepper chicken, fish, drumsticks, and shredded lamb are hugely popular. It’s spicy, garlicky, and full of flavour. You won’t find it anywhere else,” said Payel.
Over the past year, Kimli has also introduced dim sums — Payel’s personal favourite — to much fanfare. “I love dimsums, and I noticed the younger crowd did too. So, I thought, why not?” What started as a culinary indulgence has turned into one of the restaurant’s hot sellers.
Despite these innovations, Kimli has no Instagram-friendly neon signs or chic plating aesthetics. “You come here for the food. It’s not Instagram-worthy, but the feel is authentic. We only focus on food,” says Payel, candidly. That might change in the near future — plans are already underway to renovate and refresh the decor — but Payel insists the food will remain the heart of the experience.
No fancy decor, Kimli’s serves up an old-school dining experience
And in that growth lies the charm of Kimli — a restaurant that doesn't just serve Kolkata Chinese, but continues to honour the legacy of Chinatown in a way that’s both delicious and deeply personal. “Come to Kimli because it’s magical. You won’t regret it,” signed off Payel. The 56-seater restaurant also has a private dining room for small get togethers. They have also ventured into catering fresh Chinese food for party orders.