The Telegraph
Friday , October 12 , 2012
Since 1st March, 1999
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Kallol Datta

There was a baby skeletal print. There was a macro bone print. There was a “screaming” man with blurbs of “losing my sanity was not part of the plan”. There were knuckles that had “plagiarism” tattooed because “when you feel strongly about something, you ink it on your body”. Kallol Datta is clearly feeling very strongly about plagiarism. “In India it’s become so commonplace. Inspiration and plagiarism are interchangeable. It’s no more about influences or what comes from within,” he says with a serious face. Welcome to the moodboard of Kallol’s spring-summer ’13.

The collection is titled Grotesque Nonsense. Executed completely in white and parts (and print) in black, with metallic foil-like eyes and poker-straight hair against an interesting melange of music that he sourced from bands all over, Britain to Mongolia. Each look comprised multiple separates, and most were put together during casting. A shift from last two seasons’ long and lean, this time the pieces were long but more voluminous and 3D. “Unlike other labels, I don’t use pleating and ruching, so for me it’s all about pattern-cutting and achieving that 3D fold — that’s where magic happens for me,” says Kallol.

Pieces that stood out included some one-shoulders — not the sexy kind, just the one-sleeve-missing kind. There were some menswear too. And his men wore black nailpaint — we don’t have to look too far for where that came from! There was a hint of sheer, some doctor coats. Not surprising given the whole bone-and-skeleton thing.

Anand Bhushan

Anand Bhushan played around pretty blues and milky whites. High on texture and tone- on-tone detailing (lots of diamond motifs, very graphic in mood), these dresses, inspired by none other than Superman, can be easily imagined on the super-stylish party girls of Delhi. The colours moved from blue to smokey salmon and silvery hues, and bodycons gradually flitted between a couple of flirty evening numbers. Accented by some silver skinny belts, the show also saw some separates, waiting to be mixed and matched with your basics. Asap!

Pero by Aneeth Arora

It was country girl all the way at Pero by Aneeth Arora. As always, the hero of the show was her use of crushed cotton which she effortlessly mixed with gingham checks or delicate lace to create romantic summer separates and dresses. Cutesy crochet booties on their feet, almost every model had a headgear — a hat, a wreath or a checked cotton scarf.

From summer picnic dresses to playsuits or cropped pants, the silhouette story had enough to choose from. Very romantic-meets-retro.

Shivan & Narresh

Shivan & Narresh took the plunge from strictly swimwear to not-so-strictly swimwear. Sexy pencil dresses with wide open window-backs, boxy sleeves on shifts, the tiniest tops, cropped blouses, little capelets and some summer dresses that were dangerously slashed till the belly button. Of course there were some swimsuits — good ol’ one-pieces and some bold and brave monokinis. Also, a couple of their sarong saris. Most of the looks were either graphically colour-blocked or candy-striped, and the star of the colour story was a delicious shade of tangerine. Remember the lush orange of the orange stick?

Pia Pauro

Pia Pauro’s brand of style has steadily developed a strong signature, a must for anyone heading to the beach. Ikat and Aztec were recurring features for the designer’s S/S 13 lookbook, titled Isola Pia (‘Pia’s Island’ in Italian). Kaftan dresses, jumpsuits, playsuits, cropped tops, pencil skirts (beaded and sexy, not black and secretary) and maxis, all glam and neon, want to make you book a beach vacation pronto or at least throw a sundown party! Ostrich feather accents on the shoes and ears — as always, her accessories were as flirty and fun as the clothes.

Jenjum Gadi

Rich tones of purple and turquoise off-set pristine whites at Jenjum Gadi on Day Five of WIFW. In An Ode to Gota, the silhouettes were Indian-esque or let’s say, ‘fusion’. Kaftan tops, shrugs, draped kurtas and skinny pants, masquerading as churidars. As the show progressed, there was a splash of yellow in yummy shades, including mango and buttercup. Jenjum showed an effective range of white kurtas with bright crochet detailing on the yoke and cuffs that could make for an alternative to the Anarkali for ladies who lunch. But somewhere the style story got totally mixed up. Editing out some gota would have helped.