The Telegraph
Saturday , March 10 , 2012
Since 1st March, 1999

Abhishek Dutta sent out Epidemic, his 2012 resort collection. Futuristic purple lights, blue and purple lips and siren-y music set the stage. Cotton jackets and slim trousers for men, and comfy linen separates for women dominated the show. Drapes and details around the waist were big. He did a nice pair of pants — cowled on top and skinny at the bottom. Model Sania Sheikh’s boyfriend blazer in beautiful blue and purple lapels was also worth a dekko.


Garo — city boy Priyangsu Maji’s label — debuted in The Talent Box at LFW. Eclectic ensembles (pieces included sarong skirts, wide-legged pants and tunic kurtas), quirky patchwork, layered looks, lots of ikat, tie ’n’ dye and leheriya marked the collection. But amidst it all, his Bengali sensibility stood out. The fabrics were woven (what else would you expect since he did three years at the Sabyasachi school!) We liked how Priyangsu mixed saturated colours with pastels.


Sometimes you have to start backwards to understand the story better. So the last girl, Tamara Moss, walked in wearing jewellery — not statement-y but conceptual — by Eina Ahluwalia. The piece had many pieces within. A beautiful jaali door (“you”) that opened to another door of bloody veins (“within you”) that opened to the door of soul’s eye (the “perspective”) and then finally to the golden light (“the light that has the answers to all our questions”).


Eina’s collection was aptly titled Forgotten Jewel. There were hearts full of veins, smeared with red to resemble blood. There were jewelled eggs — large for the runway and smaller varieties for commercial purposes. There were eyes. Monocles styled as jewels with all three eyes, “the mind’s eye, heart’s eye and soul’s eye”. The garments were like second skin, mostly nude crepe maxi dresses. The highlight was jaali work, the handcrafted technique Eina is best known for. A favourite look was a dress with multiple clusters of eye brooches.

When she came to take her bow, you just felt proud that India’s only conceptual jewellery artist belongs to Calcutta.


Rimi Nayak’s bugs-inspired collection, Inset in my Closet, had too many creepy-crawlies for comfort. Bugs popped up in every little space available — as print, as accessory, as embroidery and even as silhouettes! But from little draped dresses in metallics to tunics and saris, Rimi showed quite a contrasting range. We liked her pleated shirt-waisters. Thankfully, this was in a solid shade.


Neha Agarwal’s Wake Up, Will Ya was a relaxed line of lounge-y separates, saris and dresses. Dew drops detailed like leaves was the recurrent print. As always, she layered easy, casual pieces to create mature, interesting looks with a restrained sensibility — a breather during fashion week. The colours were mainly black and white, cheered up with salmon pinks and cool blues. The peplum was another leitmotif.



Nupur Kanoi’s Kundalini Project played with asymmetrical lines on a colour palette of white, blue and black. The silhouettes were interesting, especially the skinny pants, which she calls “blind pants”, perhaps because of the panelling. Her triangular shrug is a shape-shifter. The structured tape jackets with delicate French knot clusters came together with translucent bias wraps and jaali-effect cuffs to tell an interesting story. The touch of military on her last maxi — epaulettes on the hemline — was quirky and cool. And Sonam Kapoor has already snapped up a look from the line!


Sonakshi Sinha opened the Karmic show in a JJ Valaya.

The launch of pret brand Karmic from the house of Kimaaya featured biggies like Anamika Khanna, Shantanu & Nikhil, Ranna Gill, Rina Dhaka, Rocky S, Neeta Lulla, Falguni and Shane Peacock, Kavita Bhartia and Rohit Bal. Each designer showed five looks, their signature style at their pret best.

The front row was dotted with designers. Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Rohit Bal, Tarun Tahiliani....


Bolly bling

Payal Singhal’s showstopper Tanisha had elder sis Kajol rooting for her from the front row. And what did our Bollywood beauty wear? A draped dress. Not bad!