The KFC restaurant in Hanoi is a sign how far Vietnam has travelled since the war with the US. Now India will be helping remove some of the conflicts remaining fingerprints. (AFP)
New Delhi, Oct. 8: Amaar naam, tomaar naam, Vietnam, Vietnam. After years of sloganeering, India is finally getting a chance to put its mortar where its mouth was.
New Delhi will help conserve a portion of My Son sanctuary, a world heritage site in Vietnam that has one of the largest collections of Hindu temples and monuments, the oldest dating back to the 4th century AD, outside the subcontinent.
The Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) will be restoring the damage done by a weeklong US carpet-bombing during the Vietnam War, when the slogan Amaar naam, tomaar naam (my name, your name) was coined in Bengal to show solidarity with the Vietnamese.
Bengal politicians other war effort had been to try and embarrass the Americans by renaming Calcuttas Harrington Street, where the US consulate is located, as Ho Chi Minh Sarani after the Vietnamese war leader.
Four decades have since passed but My Sons 70-odd monuments still wear their war wounds from the B52 bomber raids of August 1969. The surrounding area is considered dangerous even now because of undetected landmines, another legacy of the war.
A team of ASI officials has visited the site and is finalising the preliminary report, said ASI additional director-general B.R. Mani.
One reason the sanctuary was awarded world heritage status was that Unesco recognised it as an exceptional example of cultural interchange. It is the place where subcontinental Hindu architecture was introduced into Southeast Asia over 1,600 years ago and evolved for over 10 centuries, while intermingling with Buddhist culture.
For several years now, teams from Italy and France have been working on the site, dotted with red-brick shrines and other structures, mainly built in the Indian architectural style of Shikhara (tapering towers).
Our (Indian) help has been sought because we have expertise in Indian architecture, said an official of the ASI, which has undertaken the project under the foreign ministrys directions. We will be working on only one portion of the sanctuary.
The restoration is expected to be a part of next weeks scheduled bilateral talks with the Vietnamese President in India.
The temples at the sanctuary, set in a valley surrounded by high mountains, were built by the Cham rulers, who established the Champa kingdom towards the end of the 2nd century AD and soon came under the influence of Hinduism.
Most of the shrines are Shiva temples though some are dedicated to other deities. The earliest is dedicated to Bhadresvara (Shiva), a name that derives from that of the Cham king Bhadravarman.
The peak construction time was between the 8th and 10th centuries, when some of the most magnificent monuments came up here, the ASI official said. Later, the area came under the influence of Mahayana Buddhism too.
For conservationists, the challenge is that much of the construction technique of the Cham dynastys workers is still a mystery. Even the decorative carvings on the temples were cut directly onto the bricks themselves, rather than onto sandstone slabs inserted into the brick walls.
From AD 1190 to 1220, the Champa kingdom was occupied by the Khmers. From the 13th century, it slowly declined and was absorbed by the growing power of Dai Viet. It ceased to exist as a kingdom in the later 15th century, when worship ceased at My Son.
The site was rediscovered and introduced to the modern world in 1898 by a French scholar, M.C. Paris.