ADVERTISEMENT

A culinary legacy

Three decades of Mainland China and a new feat on MasterChef India: The restaurant chain that shaped India’s love affair with Chinese cuisine

Anjan Chatterjee, founder, chairman and managing director, Speciality Restaurants Ltd Mainland China, MasterChef India and The Telegraph archives

Zeba Akhtar Ali
Published 31.05.26, 07:45 AM

For generations of Indian diners, Chinese food has not merely been a cuisine category — it has been a ritual. Birthday dinners under glowing red lanterns, family celebrations around steaming baskets of dim sums, office lunches punctuated with crackling starters and chilli-spiked gravies, and late-evening cravings soothed by Hakka noodles and Manchurian. And somewhere in the middle of this collective memory sits one name that changed the way India understood Chinese cuisine — Mainland China.

As the iconic restaurant brand from the house of Speciality Restaurants completes 30 years, it marks the milestone not with nostalgia alone, but with reinvention. In a first-of-its-kind collaboration, Mainland China became the first Indian restaurant brand to host a MasterChef India takeover, bringing together the pressure-cooker creativity of television’s biggest culinary competition and the deeply rooted legacy of one of India’s most recognisable restaurant institutions. It was more than a promotional collaboration. It was a symbolic meeting of two culinary worlds: one built on consistency and emotional memory, the other on innovation, experimentation and performance. Together, they created a dining experience that reflected where Indian dining culture has arrived in 2026 — experiential, collaborative, story-driven and deeply personal.

ADVERTISEMENT

For Mainland China, the anniversary is not simply about longevity. It is about relevance. Few restaurant brands survive three decades while remaining emotionally woven into the dining habits of an entire country. Fewer still manage to evolve without abandoning the familiarity that made them iconic in the first place.

And perhaps that is exactly why the MasterChef India collaboration felt so seamless.

Speciality Restaurants chief Anjan Chatterjee recalls the journey...

We are extremely thankful to God that we have completed over 30 years of Mainland China. It has truly been an incredible journey — one that started long ago with the very first Mainland China in Sakinaka, Andheri West, Mumbai.

The inspiration was simple yet powerful: to bring five-star dining at non-five-star prices, and ensure that the upwardly mobile middle class felt pampered and valued. During my childhood in Calcutta, I had seen many restaurants where customer care was not really the priority. The guest focus and hospitality standards that we learnt at the Taj and other luxury hotels were missing in standalone dining spaces. I wanted to change that.

Chinese food had always been deeply embedded in Calcutta’s culture. We grew up eating Tangra-style Chinese food, and Calcutta, being home to India’s only Chinese community, had a very special relationship with the cuisine. Based on this insight, I felt there was an opportunity to create a standalone Chinese restaurant that went beyond the familiar.

Back in the early ’80s, hardly anybody was serving dim sums, duck, or Cheung Fun. Most Chinese restaurants in India were essentially Sichuan restaurants dominated by red chilli pastes and repetitive flavours. With Mainland China, we wanted to introduce diners to the true diversity of Chinese cuisine.

After all, Mainland China represents the heart of China — Beijing, Shanghai, Guangdong, Hunan, Chengdu — different provinces, different flavours, different culinary philosophies. We worked extensively on the menu to bring together these regional influences and present a more authentic and sophisticated Chinese dining experience.

I’m very happy to say that speciality standalone fine-dining restaurants were pioneered by us, and today it gives me immense joy to see standalone dining flourishing across cuisines — Indian, Chinese, Italian, Southeast Asian, and more.

Being a Calcutta boy at heart, after the proof of concept in Sakinaka, we opened in Ballygunge, Calcutta. At that point, dining culture in the city was largely concentrated around Park Street. But I strongly believed that if the product and pricing were right, people would travel for a destination dining experience. Thankfully, they did.

Those early days were not easy. Authentic Chinese ingredients were almost impossible to find in India. Soy sauce brands like Ching’s or Oh! were among the very few available. I still remember travelling abroad with my family and physically carrying back sauces, ingredients and condiments to maintain authenticity in our food.

Innovation became part of our identity. Dishes like Crackling Spinach, Chilli Pepper Chicken, and Prawn Cheng Fun became iconic. Many restaurants later followed our path — some even copied our menus line by line — but I’ve always believed imitation is the best form of flattery.

What makes me happiest is that we built an institution. Today, the group has over 152 restaurants and confectioneries across India and internationally, including London, Dubai, Muscat and Abu Dhabi. Mainland China has travelled far beyond where we first imagined.

I remain deeply grateful to Calcutta — the city I belong to — for the love and acceptance it gave us. I continue to believe that if Calcuttans approve of something, it stands the test of time and can succeed anywhere in the world. Most importantly, throughout this journey, we never believed that restaurants were only about food. Hospitality has always been at the centre of everything we do. Service alone is black and white — rational and procedural. Hospitality requires emotion, warmth and colour. We have always tried to ensure that every guest walking into Mainland China or any of our restaurants feels special.

None of this would have been possible without my colleagues and senior team members who stood beside me from the very beginning — chefs like Chef Dubey, Chef Ranjit and Chef Rajiv, many of whom came from the Taj family. Together, we built not just restaurants, but relationships and memories.

Looking back, it has been a beautiful journey — one filled with passion, risk-taking, authenticity and, above all, gratitude.”

A Brand That Defined Indian Chinese Dining

Before “Asian dining” became a broad umbrella term and before sushi bars, ramen counters and Korean grills entered India’s urban vocabulary, there was Indo-Chinese cuisine. Adapted, localised, fiery and unapologetically comforting, it became one of the country’s most beloved food cultures. Mainland China arrived at a moment when Indian diners were ready for a more refined and immersive interpretation of Chinese cuisine. The brand introduced consistency, ambience and sophistication to what had largely been experienced through neighbourhood Chinese eateries and street-style favourites.

Over the years, Mainland China evolved into more than a restaurant chain. It became an institution. Its signature dishes entered urban food memory. Families returned to favourite orders with near ceremonial loyalty. Diners developed emotional associations with specific soups, sauces and starters. The restaurant understood something important very early on — people don’t only revisit restaurants for food; they revisit them for familiarity.

That emotional connection formed the backbone of the anniversary collaboration.

According to Speciality Restaurants managing director Anjan Chatterjee, the takeover was rooted in mutual respect between two culinary powerhouses. “Mainland China has always stood for consistency, depth of flavour and a distinct interpretation of Chinese cuisine in India,” he says. “It was an honour and pleasure for us to be chosen as the only restaurant for MasterChef India. The creative was co-created between the production team at Sony and our teams, fusing this into an opportunity through the theme of Indian street Chinese.”

That theme became central to the collaboration’s success. Instead of attempting to dramatically reinvent Mainland China’s culinary identity, the takeover explored the emotional familiarity of Indian-Chinese cuisine while inviting contestants and judges to reinterpret it with fresh eyes.

When Television Entered the Dining Room

Cooking competitions traditionally exist within controlled environments. Contestants create dishes under studio lighting, carefully timed edits and isolated judging conditions. Restaurants, however, function differently. There are no retakes during dinner service. Guests expect consistency. Food must arrive hot. Flavours must hold up repeatedly across tables. Dishes must survive operational pressure.

This was the challenge that transformed the collaboration into something unprecedented. For the first time, MasterChef India contestants were asked to execute food inside a functioning restaurant ecosystem — one with paying guests, established standards and real-time expectations.

“Usually MasterChef formats happen within a closed environment,” said Chatterjee. “This was the first time contestants were asked to perform in a live restaurant environment.” The contestants were given freedom to conceptualise menus using available ingredients, but the dishes had to satisfy a critical test: repeatability.

The judges — Ranveer Brar, Kunal Kapur and Vikas Khanna — evaluated not merely creativity, but whether dishes could survive the operational realities of a professional kitchen. Execution became as important as imagination.That shift fundamentally changed the energy of the challenge.

Ranveer Brar on Respecting Legacy

For Chef Ranveer Brar, the collaboration felt deeply organic from the outset.

“The idea floated by the MasterChef team felt very organic,” he explained. “Mainland China has, for decades, defined how India experiences Chinese cuisine — it’s not just a restaurant, it’s a cultural reference point.”

Brar’s longstanding personal relationship with Chatterjee made the collaboration feel less transactional and more intuitive. “Given my long-standing personal association with Anjan Chatterjee and my genuine fondness for the brand, the collaboration felt less like a formal partnership and more like a natural coming together of shared culinary sensibilities.” That sense of familiarity shaped the culinary philosophy behind the takeover. “The intent was never to disrupt the identity of Mainland China, but to have a conversation with it,” added Brar.

The distinction is important. Reinvention for the sake of novelty often alienates loyal diners. Instead, the chefs approached the menu as an evolution — layering nuance and contemporary interpretation onto a familiar foundation. “There was instinct in understanding what would resonate immediately within the Indo-Chinese palate that Mainland China has mastered,” Brar explains. “But there was also a conscious effort to explore nuance — textures, plating and slight shifts in flavour profiles.”

The result was subtle rather than theatrical. Guests encountered dishes that retained comfort while introducing moments of surprise.

Kunal Kapur and the Philosophy of Harmony

Chef Kunal Kapur echoes the same sentiment: evolution over disruption. “The idea was not to disrupt the DNA of the restaurant but to gently evolve it,” he said. “We focused on harmony.”

That harmony extended beyond flavours into collaborative process. Rather than treating the takeover as an opportunity for individual chef branding, the judges focused on building a unified menu identity. “It’s not about three chefs putting their signatures,” Kapur elaborates. “It’s about one menu speaking in a unified voice.”

The approach reflects a larger shift within global dining culture. Increasingly, modern restaurants are moving away from ego-driven culinary experiences toward collaborative storytelling. Food today is expected to carry narrative. Diners want to understand the emotional and cultural context behind what appears on their plate. They seek experiences rather than isolated dishes. And few cuisines embody emotional memory in India as deeply as Indo-Chinese food. Kapur believes creativity functions best when anchored in respect.

“We didn’t want to be different for the sake of it,” he says. “We wanted it to be meaningful.” That philosophy shaped everything from flavour layering to presentation. Instead of shocking diners, the menu aimed to intrigue them. “There are small twists, thoughtful plating and deeper flavour layering,” Kapur says. “We didn’t want to shock the palate; we wanted to intrigue it.”

Vikas Khanna and the Human Side of Food

Chef Vikas Khanna’s involvement added another emotional layer to the collaboration. Known globally for his ability to merge memory, storytelling and food philosophy, Khanna approached the takeover through the lens of emotional continuity. Like Kapur and Brar, he recognised the cultural significance of Mainland China within India’s dining landscape.

“Mainland China already has a very strong identity,” he said. “The idea was to gently evolve it.” Khanna emphasised that successful food experiences are rarely built on flavour alone. “A great dining experience is not just about taste,” he says. “It’s about intention, execution and memory.”

That statement perhaps best captures why Mainland China has endured for 30 years. Its success has never been built solely on technical cuisine. It has thrived because diners associate the brand with emotional familiarity. Restaurants that survive across generations become repositories of personal history. Families celebrate milestones there. Couples return for anniversaries. Children grow into adults while ordering the same comfort dishes their parents once introduced them to. The MasterChef India takeover tapped directly into that emotional architecture.

The Reality of Restaurant Pressure

Television glamour often obscures the gruelling discipline of restaurant kitchens. One of the most compelling aspects of the collaboration was how it exposed contestants to the operational realities of hospitality.“On MasterChef, the pressure is internal and competitive,” says Brar. “In a restaurant, the pressure is external, you’re accountable to a paying guest who expects consistency and excellence.”

That distinction changes everything. In competitive television, one extraordinary plate can define success. In restaurants, consistency defines credibility. “You have to earn it with every single service,” said Kapur. “A restaurant doesn’t allow you to hide — it reflects your discipline daily.”

The contestants worked alongside Mainland China’s kitchen teams, tasting, refining and recalibrating dishes repeatedly. The collaboration became less about performance and more about adaptation. And perhaps that is why the takeover resonated so strongly. It stripped away the spectacle often associated with television cooking competitions and brought the focus back to hospitality.

The Dish That Stood Out

Among the many dishes conceptualised during the takeover, one emerged as an unexpected star: Pushparaj Chicken. According to Chatterjee, the dish demonstrated both guest appeal and commercial viability. “The team who created the dish ensured to keep it on the higher side because they had conviction that it would be most ordered,” he says. That confidence reflects another important aspect of modern dining culture: diners today are increasingly willing to engage with personality-driven menus.

Food has become conversational. Guests are curious about the stories behind dishes, the inspirations that shaped them and the people who conceptualised them. The success of dishes like Pushparaj Chicken highlights how experiential dining now intersects with entertainment culture, social media engagement and culinary storytelling.

The Evolution of Experiential Dining in India

India’s restaurant landscape has transformed dramatically over the past decade. Diners today are no longer satisfied with static menus and predictable formats. They seek immersion, exclusivity and emotional engagement. Pop-ups, chef collaborations, tasting menus and limited-time experiences have become central to urban dining culture.

The Mainland China takeover arrives at the perfect cultural moment. “Collaborations like these bring in a dynamic layer of storytelling and engagement,” said Chatterjee. “They allow us to keep the brand relevant, introduce new culinary voices and create limited-time experiences that excite our guests.”

The collaboration also signals something larger: television and hospitality are increasingly converging. Shows like MasterChef India have transformed chefs into cultural personalities. Diners now want access not only to food, but to the worlds surrounding that food. They want participation. They want proximity. And restaurants are becoming platforms where those experiences materialise physically.

Why Mainland China’s milestone is significant

Thirty years is an extraordinary milestone in hospitality. Restaurants close constantly. Trends disappear rapidly. Diners evolve unpredictably. Yet Mainland China has remained relevant across generations. Part of that success lies in the brand’s refusal to become static. Even while preserving familiar flavours, the restaurant has consistently adapted to changing dining expectations. Ambience evolved. Menus expanded. Service styles modernised. Yet the emotional core remained intact.

That balance between familiarity and reinvention is extraordinarily difficult to sustain. The MasterChef India collaboration reflects that philosophy perfectly. Rather than abandoning its roots, Mainland China invited a younger, more experimental culinary language into its ecosystem — while still preserving the familiarity diners cherish. It was not reinvention through rupture. It was reinvention through dialogue.

The Future of Chef-Led Collaborations

All three judges see the takeover not as a one-off activation, but as the beginning of a broader culinary movement. “I see this more as a starting point than a one off,” says Brar. “There’s immense potential in bridging platforms like MasterChef with established restaurant brands.”

Kapur believes collaborations represent the future of food culture. “The future of food is not competition — it’s collaboration,” he says. That idea feels particularly relevant within India’s rapidly evolving hospitality industry.

As diners become more globally aware and experience-driven, restaurants must increasingly offer narrative-led engagement rather than transactional dining alone. Chef collaborations, television partnerships and immersive dining experiences are likely to become more common.

Chatterjee agrees. “Experiential dining is becoming increasingly important,” he says. “If there are such opportunities in the future, Mainland China would surely look at being part of them.”

Beyond Food: A Cultural Marker

Ultimately, Mainland China’s 30-year celebration is about more than one restaurant chain. It reflects the evolution of Indian dining culture itself. Three decades ago, eating out remained occasional for many urban families. Today, restaurants function as social spaces, lifestyle markers and cultural hubs. The way Indians engage with food has fundamentally changed.

Diners are more curious, more informed and more adventurous. Yet even amid global food trends, Indo-Chinese cuisine retains a uniquely emotional hold over Indian palates. Perhaps because it represents adaptation itself — a cuisine born from migration, reinterpretation and cultural exchange. Mainland China understood that emotional connection long before experiential dining became fashionable. And that understanding remains its greatest strength.

A Legacy Still Being Written

Anniversary celebrations often lean heavily on nostalgia. But Mainland China’s 30th year feels forward-looking instead. The MasterChef India takeover demonstrated that legacy brands do not have to remain trapped within their past. They can evolve without losing identity. The collaboration worked because it respected memory while embracing curiosity. Guests entered expecting familiarity and left discovering something new.

And maybe that is the true hallmark of a lasting restaurant brand — the ability to comfort and surprise simultaneously. As Mainland China steps into its next decade, it does so not merely as a survivor of changing food trends, but as an institution still willing to experiment, collaborate and adapt. In a dining culture increasingly obsessed with novelty, that quiet confidence may be its greatest achievement of all.

Mainland China MasterChef India Anjan Chatterjee Chinese Food
Follow us on:
ADVERTISEMENT