Calcutta’s favourite dish could be at risk from the war in West Asia.
Owners of several eateries said disruptions in the supply of commercial LPG cylinders are posing significant challenges to cooking biryani in bulk. If the curbs continue, they may first have to reduce biryani volumes and, if the situation does not improve, stop making it altogether until normal supply resumes.
LPG is the primary cooking fuel in restaurants across the city. A supply crunch could affect more than biryani, forcing many eateries to shrink menus. Some outlets have already made changes: buffets have been suspended, and only à la carte orders are being accepted.
Shiraz, one of Calcutta’s old favourites, has a flagship outlet at Mullickbazar and five others across the city. Its central kitchen at Mullickbazar consumes 300 LPG cylinders every month.
“The biryani is prepared here and then sent to the other outlets. I have barely a couple of days’ stock left. Shifting to firewood is one option, but I am not sure if it is allowed. We are staring at uncertainty. We may have to reduce biryani volume first and see how things go,” said Ishtiaque Ahmad of Shiraz.
Debaditya Chaudhury, managing director of Chowman, Oudh 1590 and Chapter 2, said he requires 100 cylinders daily for his 35 outlets in and around the city.
“For now, we are looking at a reduced volume of biryani. If the crisis is not resolved, we may have to stop making it for a while. We can switch to electric cookers for fried items on our Chinese menu, but even staple noodles and rice require a high flame. LPG is best for that. The menu will have to shrink,” he said.
With the Strait of Hormuz cut off due to the war, India cannot source LPG from Saudi Arabia and is now looking to import from other sources, like the US, which involves a longer voyage. This has created a demand-supply mismatch.
Following instructions from the Centre, oil companies are prioritising essential supplies — hospitals and schools — over commercial establishments. The easy availability of domestic LPG has also been restricted, with the Centre imposing a 25-day gap between refill bookings.
Multiple distributors confirmed the restrictions. “19kg to go only to hospitals until further advice,” read a WhatsApp message from an oil company executive to a group of distributors.
A distributor in south Calcutta said he received frantic calls from a star hotel off EM Bypass requesting refills. “I could not provide them. I don’t have buffer stock,” he said.
Anjan Chatterjee, founder of Speciality Restaurants, which owns several fine-dining outlets, said: “The situation is precarious. We have a stock that would barely last three days. We will have to see what happens after that.”
Popular restaurants such as Mainland China and Flame and Grill have already suspended buffets. Mall-based eateries sourcing LPG from gas banks may also see curtailed supply.
“Our cafe runs entirely on LPG and has no induction infrastructure. Suppliers say they don’t have stock. If this continues, we may have no option but to shut operations,” said Urvika Kanoi, chef-owner of The Daily Cafe.
Sudesh Poddar, president of the Hotel and Restaurant Association of EasternIndia, said: “An overnight switch to electric cooking is not possible. The sanctioned load has to be increased.The entire industry is facing uncertainty. We have appealed to the Centre to allow LPG supply, even if limited.”
The shortage has hit roadside eateries as well. At Bedwin in Gariahat, the outlet relies on 19kg LPG cylinders, needing two refills every 10 days.
“We serve around 300 rolls a day. With current stock, we can make only 150 for the next two days,” an employee said.
The crisis has also triggered fears of black marketing. A Chinese eatery owner in central Calcutta said a 19kg cylinder is now selling at ₹3,000, up from the usual ₹1,800.
The crunch has spared none. “There is a severe (LPG) shortage. The club kitchen is operating with a skeletal menu, and members have been informed,” said an official at Calcutta Club.
Additional reporting by Sambit Saha and Samarpita Banerjee