Being from Karnataka, Dandeli was one destination that was always on my wish list and it was only recently that I had an opportunity to come up close with its many sights and sounds.
Forest Calling
A roughly 70-minute flight from Bengaluru to Hubbali (Hubli) and an under two hour drive had me at my destination at Stone Wood Premier in Dandeli. The journey itself is a breeze, courtesy the verdant forests that are interspersed with small villages and sugarcane farms with the crop in full bloom.
After I quickly check into my pool- facing villa aesthetically done up with pine wood and stone, I walk around the property that is located on the periphery of the forest. Spread over 2.5 acres there are 31 cottages as well as a dormitory for 32 people and an in-house restaurant that serves delectable cuisine where I have a quick breakfast before heading out for a guided nature walk.
Apart from the swimming pool, there are a host of adrenaline pumping activities as well including white water rafting, kayaking, water zorbing, roller, archery, and ziplining. Walking along the edge of the jungle I spot a green bee eater, Malabar giant squirrel, and a golden orb weaver spider. The forest also has flowering species like Chromolaena odorata and Senna occidentalis.
As we reach the road and walk back towards the resort, the naturalists stop at a giant fig tree and I spot many more birds here from the yellow-browed bulbul, Malabar barbet, Malabar grey hornbill and the heart-spotted woodpecker. I look for the Malabar pied hornbill, but it remains elusive. Nevertheless, thrilled with my sightings, I head back for lunch where I sample a hearty local vegetable biryani before heading out for the jungle safari.
Jungle Jaunt
The Kali Tiger Reserve has government-run safaris in the morning and afternoon and can be booked at the office. The Jeep safari costs ₹600 per person and needs a minimum of five people in one Jeep. After a short wait, I set off on the safari, amazed by the lush jungle known for its teak trees. As we headed into the jungle, I suddenly noticed some movement in the teak trees and as I looked through my camera lens, I was thrilled to spot the Malabar pied hornbill. In fact, there was a flock of five to six birds that were flying around the thick trees and I knew that this was the best start to the jungle sojourn.
As we drive along, we spot a few turtles in a pond, gaurs as well as monitor lizards on our way. A few spotted deer as well as a very friendly peacock also made an appearance in the safari. I am told that this jungle is well known for the elusive black panther, but perhaps that was for another day.
At one point in this safari, we are asked to get off and walk to a view point from where you can get a stunning view of the Western Ghats and its biodiversity from a bird’s eye view. As we return from the jungle, I look back one last time to catch a gorgeous sunset where the forest is infused in an orange hue, giving it a mystical feel and I know this has been a well spent couple of hours.
A River Flows Through the Jungle
Dandeli is home to the majestic Kali River that is also where most of the white water rafting happens. There are several rapids here and this is a much sought after activity among those who love an adrenaline rush. However, I was looking for something else and found out that a river safari is an option too.
The next morning, I headed to the Starling River Resort where a speed boat is waiting to take me for a river ride. The experience is great as I spot several crocodiles, meet a farmer fishing on a coracle, as well as spot birds like the brahminy kite, white-throated kingfisher, woolly-necked stork, and little terns. Towards the end of the ride, my driver gets a little adventurous and twists and turns the boat for a minute before we head back to the shore.
Avian Love
The next morning is also spent at the Timber Depot that is said to be the hot spot for birding. I am lucky to be with locals who know their way here and soon enough I am ticking off more bird sightings from my list. Apart from the Malabar pied hornbill, I also spotted the jungle owlet, brahminy starlings, a sleepy grey fronted green pigeon who refused to open his eyes, plum-headed parakeets and the stunning white-bellied woodpecker that has a red mop on its head.
In the afternoon, I head to the Old Magazine House, a resort operated by Karnataka Tourism’s Jungle Lodges, for more bird watching from a bird hide, after taking prior permission. At the hide I spot species like the orange headed thrush, Tickell’s blue flycatcher, paradise flycatcher, verditer flycatcher, white-rumped shama, bronzed drongo and golden oriole among many others.
It is almost dusk when I return and as I look at my pictures, I cannot help but think how fruitful these two days have been. And I can say that Dandeli is easily one of the best kept secrets of Karnataka. Not only is it off the beaten path, but it is also a place that allows you to reconnect with nature in more ways than one. When are you going?