I could have sworn I was in Nevada, near the Grand Canyon. I stepped out of the SUV rubbing my eyes in disbelief and in awe after a brief catnap. This was certainly not the Oman I envisioned. The rugged Al Hajar mountains, with views of the snaking roads below, packed the same raw appeal as the Grand Canyon. The views only got better as I approached the summit.
Oman’s ‘Rocky Mountains’ (Al Hajar translates into Rocky or Stony Mountains in Arabic) are the highest mountain range in the Eastern Arabian Peninsula and separate Oman’s low coastal plains (the mountains lie 50-100km inland from the Gulf of Oman coast) from the high desert plateau. Jebel Shams (the mountain of the sun) in the vicinity and Jebel Akhdar are the highest points of the Al Hajar range.
The ‘Green Mountain’
A panoramic view of the village of Birkat al Mawz, Jebel Akhdar Ashwin Rajagopalan
It wasn’t before the 2010s that the Sultanate of Oman unveiled the Green mountain (hence the name Jebel Akhdar) to Omani and international tourists. It’s just two hours away from the Muscat international airport, but a world away. The road up the mountains begins at the quaint village of Birkat al Mawz on the Muscat-Nizwa Road. I make a quick photo stop at the Bait al Radidah, a renovated fort at the fringe of this village. This compact yet elegant fort almost blends with the sand-brown landscape and surrounding mountains.
Bait al Radidah, a renovated fort at the fringe of Birkat al Mawz Ashwin Rajagopalan
Diana’s Point
You will always hear local legends in this part of the Middle East about how one of the world’s most famous couples were mesmerised by the sunset here. It’s come to be known as ‘Diana’s Point’ almost from the moment Lady Diana and Prince (now King) Charles caught a magical sunset in 1986 during happier times. They flew on a military chopper for this sunset. For decades, Jebel Akhdar, the crown jewel of Oman’s Al Hajar Mountain range was off limits. The army and the local villagers were the only people who had access.
Diana’s Point – now a deck at the Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort
Diana’s Point is now the sunset deck at the Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort, the highest luxury resort in the Middle East. It’s perched 2,000 metres above sea level on the curving rim of Oman’s very own Grand Canyon, in an area that’s known as the Saiq Plateau. The resort’s design is inspired by some of the royal residences in the region and offers a choice of expansive private villas and canyon view rooms. It’s easy to understand why the royal couple was mesmerised by the sunset. There’s a brief passage of time when the sun bathes the entire mountain range in shades of ochre.
Adrenaline high
It’s great fun to navigate the steep mountains and rocky boulders with a steel cable fastened Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort
The morning after the tranquil sunset was a complete contrast. The Al Hajar mountains are now a hub for adrenaline seekers from across the Middle East and beyond. Since 2011, Al Jabal has become the principal climb in the Tour of Oman road bicycle race. The team at Anantara ensured I had my ‘Batman moments’. The area around the resort is now a Via Feratta route that has outgrown its popularity beyond the Alps. It’s great fun to navigate the steep mountains and rocky boulders with a steel cable fastened. I tried my hand at abseiling and defied gravity as I walked sideways down a small section of the Green Mountain. These pursuits were enough action to build up an appetite for Oman’s national dish. The chefs had started working on this dish even before I boarded my flight from India – the lamb shuwa is cooked for 24-48 hours underground. Enough time for the subtle spices to seep through the meat and for the lamb to turn tender.
Lamb shuwa, cooked for 24-48 hours underground Ashwin Rajagopalan
Village trails
Abdullah is a resident of one of the ancient villages around the resort and is now a designated ‘mountain guide’. We set off to walk through four villages in the area at sunrise, a journey that takes me not just to another place, but another time. From winding alleyways to carved doors, there are photo ops at every turn as we walk through Sogra. It’s the ancient irrigation system – falaj (now recognised as a UNESCO World heritage site for its historical and cultural significance in the region) that completely captivates me. It takes water from a small dam to villages in the area where everything from pomegranates and the legendary damask roses (an essential fragrance ingredient) are cultivated.
Legendary damask roses (an essential fragrance ingredient) are cultivated in the region Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort
From the landscape to the adventure sports to the views and sunsets from the resort and the walk through the rustic alleys of the nearby villages, Jabal Akdhar is a part of the Middle East that is beyond your imagination.