At the intersection of craft, creativity and technology, designer Felix Bendish’s new clubwear collection is all about optical illusion. Presented as a sunset show at the House of Glenfiddich presents FDCI India Men’s Weekend at Diggi Palace in Jaipur, Bendish’s creative inspiration was lenticular print technology and Rorschach’s inkblot psychological test. For the designer who loves taking risks and challenges, and is equal parts involved in design and business, innovation was at the core of his debut apparel presentation at this weekend show. Monochrome served as a meaningful palette for the designs, featuring reflective shapes and shadowy patterns that spoke to themes of projection, identity and duality. Besides technological innovation infused into the garments, techniques such as foil printing, flocking and digital printing seamlessly found place in the collection along with intricate hand-embroidery. A t2 chat with the designer on the collection, creativity, wearability and more:
You have showcased your accessories before at FDCI, but this is the first time you presented your apparel. How does it feel?
FDCI is the apex body in fashion and the best platform in the country. Sunil Sethi, the chairman, knows his designers and their capabilities. My expertise lies in hand-embroidery, and I crafted it onto accessories. Taking the concept further, I wanted to blend it into clothing. It gives me access to expand my horizon. It feels great to showcase along with my creative fellow designers.
It was lovely to have that Rorschach card on our seats before the show. What drew you to the concept?
Being my first clothing line at FDCI, I wanted the touch and feel effect for every individual seated out there. I wanted the audience to see art in front of them. The wet paint inside the card invite was created to set the theme of my inspiration. On the invite fold, it turned into a mirror image of the ink blot. I call this a fashion art memory.
As a kid, I had this compass box which used to change images on a plastic sheet called lenticular technology. I was always fascinated by optical illusions. The Rorschach inkblot is all about perspective and perception. Hence, I called the collection Noema.
The lenticular technology was specially made according to my Rorschach motif and was then incorporated into my clothing line.
The choice of monochrome was so visually striking for your theme of identity and duality...
I love colours, but for this collection I went with white and black because the theme demanded it. I was very confident that the collection would come to life, as it was a 5pm show. The mood was just right.
How important do you think fashion is in shaping the identity of an individual?
Fashion could be very different from individual style. As designers, we must get something innovative and interesting to the table. India has always been known for its craftsmanship, design and textiles. The world is now acknowledging our fantastic Indian designers internationally.
Could you take us through the process of creating this collection of clubwear that shaped up at the intersection of new-age technology, handwork and psychology?
Lenticular lens technology is very technical and expensive. I had a lot of trial and error in creating my motif inside the lens. I knew that using this technology on accessories and clothing could make a fashion statement. The Rorschach inkblot I used was my creation, and I used it in the entire collection. I used this with my embroidery idea to create a balance.
How much weightage do you give to wearability and creativity as a designer when experimenting with technology in your design process?
Fashion is very subjective. I love experimenting with my fashion. I would say it is a 30-70 situation in my mind, where I give 30 per cent emphasis on creative clothing and 70 per cent on wearability. My fashion is all about comfort, and yet it is creative that translates to the fashion business.
Priyanka A Roy
Pictures courtesy: FDCI