Design kaleidoscope

After I cleared immigration at the Moscow airport and was greeted by team members of Moscow Fashion Week at the visitors lounge, I had to wait a while for other delegates from different countries who were all flying in to attend the fashion week and the BRICS+ Fashion Summit. One by one they started arriving, a motley group, with people of varied nationalities — from various African countries, a journalist from Argentina, another Indian gentleman, from Mumbai... and more. That small group of five-six people, in a way, is a tiny representation of the melting pot that greets you at the Moscow Fashion Week and BRICS+ Fashion Summit, organised by the Russian Cultural Foundation of Fashion and Design Development, Fashion Foundation. People of different ethnicities, from diverse nations in Asia, Africa, Latin America, and even Europe, converge to create a kaleidoscope. Also, of different professions — media, designers, merchandisers, fashion week owners, entrepreneurs, cultural ambassadors and many more — all tied by a common thread to the fashion world. Every one of them present to soak in a global celebration of fashion — appreciating great design, exchanging ideas and concepts, discussing issues plaguing the industry, and offering solutions for the future of fashion.

The Moscow Fashion Week this year was held from August 28 to September 2, and showcased designers from various countries — from China and Brazil, to Armenia, India, Turkey, and of course, a strong contingent of Russian labels. The mind-blowing diversity in design narratives, shaped primarily by the diversity inherent in the cultures of the various countries, yet some commonalties keeping in tune with global fashion trends — that was my takeaway from the fashion extravaganza that engulfed the Russian capital for those six days. I, however, could attend only the first four days of the fashion week, as I had to fly back due to personal commitments back home. Here’s bringing you the highlights...

LOOM WEAVING

ARMENIA

A beautiful blend of bold and delicate looks, this Armenian label by designer Inga Manukyan looked to the “late 1960s and early ’70s, channeling icons like Jane Birkin, Elsa Peretti, Paloma Picasso, and Betty Catroux” for the collection. Knitwear tops paired with flouncy skirts, mesh skirts paired with sweaters, turtlenecks with suede skirts and ponchos, knitted boot-cut pants styled with tailored jackets or mesh tunics, and fringed mini skirts with knit tops. The palette was primarily in pastels and neutrals, with pops of red and blue cropping up. The clothes had a simple elegance to them, with fuss-free styling and minimal accessorisation.

ALEXANDRA SEROVA

RUSSIA

The much-anticipated show by the Moscow-based brand was the high point of Day One for us. Alexandra Serova showed a collection high in glamour yet elegant and understated. Structured silhouettes gave way to flowy gowns as the show progressed. Embroidered fabrics, hand-finished details, and feminine silhouettes made up the line. From tweed suits and denims to evening gowns, every piece was adorned with sequins, beading, and embroidery. The palette was muted and ethereal, in icy blue, nudes and beiges, with some striking pieces in blacks and browns. Impeccable tailoring and refined detailing made the collection stand out.

SOLANGEL

RUSSIA

One of the most awaited shows of Moscow Fashion Week this season, the runway was the long-winding Floating Bridge above the Moscow River, creating a picturesque backdrop as it offered a view of the charming city’s skyline and many of its monuments. The Moscow based label showcased a very elaborate collection that presented a modern vision of Slavic heritage, seamlessly weaving traditional craftsmanship with technology. The result was a modern reinterpretation of tradition with a hint of cottage core aesthetics. The eveningwear line celebrated Russian cultural motifs through a contemporary design language. Drawing inspiration from nature and heritage symbols, the gowns featured lace detailing, threadwork, and botanical patterns. Elaborate hairdos and head gear created drama.

139DEC

RUSSIA

St. Petersburg brand 139Dec explored the crossroads of avant-garde fashion and architecture, with a collection of structural pieces. Known for subtle deconstruction and refined experimentation, the label presented complex designs translated effortlessly into daily wear. Sans any ornamentation, the focus was on creating shapes and textures — embossed leather, crinkled textiles, metallic coatings. Sharp, tailored lines and asymmetrical silhouettes made it a bold collection for both men and women. The colour palette was entirely dominated by blacks and neutrals.

ARTEMISI

BRAZIL

Brazilian label Artemisi brought a futuristic vision to Moscow Fashion Week. Known for combining avant-garde aesthetics with modern technologies, the brand unveiled a collection merging the medieval inspired castle core trend with fashion of the future. Influenced by the cinematic universe of Andrei Tarkovsky, the focal point of the line was metallic chains — in everything from skirts and dresses to corsets. Metal studs, crystals, fringes and 3D detailing further added to the futuristic feel. The palette was mostly dominated by black, with some neutrals, and rare bursts of red, blue and bright green.

DAVID TLALE

SOUTH AFRICA

This South African designer brought two distinct collections to Moscow Fashion Week. The Bhabha line embraced a serene palette of beige and white, featuring soaring swallow motifs throughout the garments. The Phenduka collection offered a dramatic counterpoint with its dark aesthetic — rich blacks and graphite tones anchored pieces adorned with intricate lace, metallic embellishments, and fluid asymmetrical silhouettes. Abstract splash patterns and avian imagery created visual movement across the garments. The two collections were in stark contrast and demonstrated the designer’s range of work.

404 NOT FOUND

RUSSIA

The Moscow-based brand unveiled its Fall/Winter collection Insomnia, inspired by lingerie and sleepwear. Sheer nightgowns, lace-trimmed bloomers, and boudoir pieces were layered with black veils, dark dresses, oversized hoodies, leather accessories, and textured jackets. Designer Alena Feliksova built the collection around contrasts — soft fabrics against hard textures, delicate details beside bold accents. Whites, pinks, nudes, reds and blacks coloured the line.

SASHA BARBAKOV RUSSIA

The designer unveiled ‘Gardens Bloom in the Soul’, a deeply personal collection rooted in childhood memories of his grandmother’s garden. Drawing inspiration from Soviet-era fabric patterns his grandmother once wore, the designer created a nostalgic tribute to family heritage. Floral motifs formed the collection’s core, cascading across skirts, T-shirts, bustiers, and dresses. Beyond traditional prints, blooms manifested as three dimensional elements — emerging from delicate lace work and creating textural crushed line details on structured jackets. The collection transformed intimate memory into wearable poetry.

SOL SELIVANOVA OLGA

RUSSIA

The Moscow-based brand presented one of the most striking and beautiful collections of Moscow Fashion Week this season. Titled ‘I’m Creating the Life of My Dreams’, the collection showed a mix of utility pieces and dreamy numbers. Structured trenches and oversized clothing on the one hand, and delicate laces and flowy fabrics on the other — the collection showed a wide range. Signature abstract prints, heavy layering, headscarves, corset belts, and fancy handbags recurred throughout the line. A standout in the show was a pregnant model on the runway, followed by another carrying a baby in her arms.

SUNIL SETHI Chairman,

Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) FDCI and Moscow Fashion Week have got into a formal agreement where their designers will show in our fashion weeks every season, and our Indian designers will show at Moscow Fashion Week every season. So we give them a choice from a few designer names every season and we let them choose. So two Russian designers have already shown at our fashion week, in the Mumbai edition, and till now we have sent seven of our designers to show there.

It so happened that the Indian ambassador to Russia was present at the inaugural edition of Moscow Fashion Week. And we were so excited when the first time this collaboration happened that we even sent a musician, a singer, a Manganiyar from Barmer, for a show there… they had never had something like that in their shows, so it was quite a hit. So now, every Indian show at Moscow Fashion Week is a houseful show, and India is the flavour now in fashion, at least at Moscow Fashion Week. We have shown khadi there, we have shown handloom, we have shown streetwear and out of-the-box with Nitin Bal Chouhan, we have shown bridge-to-luxury and we have shown glamour this season with the Shantnu & Nikhil show… so we have shown all that India is known for.

So it has been a very good collaboration so far and I would like to thank Mr Alexander Shumsky, the president of Moscow Fashion Week, for this.

YANA BESFAMILNAYA

RUSSIA

Closing the second day was a regular participant of Moscow Fashion Week — Yana Besfamilnaya. The collection by the Moscow-based designer drew inspiration from après-ski aesthetics and the chic atmosphere of Courchevel. The sets were created to replicate the relaxed feel of a ski resort, with lounging chairs and champagne buckets thrown around. The collection comprised heavy winterwear pieces — winter jackets paired with shorts, insulated corsets, waterproof Alladin pants, business suits embroidered with Alpine motifs, fluffy bodysuits, oversized sweaters, and cloak-scarves. Heavy layering added to the wintry feel. Red, black, white and beige were the primary hues colouring the line.

SUBAI

CHINA

Chinese label Subai showed how traditional silhouettes and fabrics of a culture can be reinterpreted for the modern era and made palatable for contemporary fashionistas. Designer Ma Guai presented both the Chinese traditional qipao and the national hanfu with a contemporary twist. The line of jackets, dresses, blouses, and vests were accessorised with oversized beads, patterned belts, fluttering ribbons, tassel threads, and dangling earrings. There were no intricate embroideries or jewel inlays as seen in traditional Chinese garments, instead, the clothes were stark and elegant in their minimalism. Jewel tones of red, blue and green were interspersed with blacks and browns.

EMRE ERDEMOĞLU TURKEY

Returning once again to Moscow Fashion Week, Turkish brand Emre Erdemoğlu showcased a collection where leather took centre stage in all its variations. From maxi trench coats and oversized biker jackets to tailored suits, leather dominated the runway. Suede accents and fur pieces complemented the aesthetic. Suede fringe, leather harnesses, and wide belts highlighting the waist echoed Wild West motifs, while dramatic details such as long gloves and beaded embellishments completed the outfits. Shades of brown, blue, beige and black coloured the line.

SHANTNU & NIKHIL

INDIA

Presented by the Fashion Design Council of India, the Indian brand showed an all-womenswear red-carpet line at Moscow Fashion Week. The collection called ‘Armoure’ drew inspiration from the sensuality of the 1930s — an era where unapologetic women became icons of both romance and resistance. The silhouettes were sculptural, architectural as well as draped, layered with embellishments, cascading crystals, pearl-studded embroideries, and rich metallic brocades. Reds, blacks, silvers, and pearls made up the colour palette.