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Cuban chains, signet rings, earrings and more: The changing face of men’s fashion jewellery

Kolkata-based designers explain how changing lifestyles, social media influence and gender-fluid fashion are reshaping the way men accessorise

Representational image Shutterstock

Sanghamitra Chatterjee
Published 15.02.26, 01:38 PM

The demand for men’s jewellery has surged over the past few months, say retailers across Kolkata. But is men’s jewellery still confined to cufflinks and lapel pins, or has it moved beyond these classic staples? While traditional pieces continue to hold their ground, the past decade has seen a clear shift.

Gender-fluid fashion, evolving lifestyles and growing digital exposure have reshaped the market. Today, statement pendants, layered chains, studs and quirky rings dominate the men’s jewellery section at stores. My Kolkata spoke to city-based designers and jewellers to decode the changing face of men’s jewellery.

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How has men’s jewellery evolved?  

There was a time when men reserved accessories strictly for formal suits and ceremonial occasions. Modern styling, however, has transformed jewellery into a versatile styling tool. As contemporary men transition between office, gym sessions, social outings and events in a single day, they seek pieces that adapt seamlessly. The shift reflects a desire for self-expression and individuality.

“Men are now more open to experimenting with different styles and pieces, moving away from traditional norms,” said Abhishek Kajaria of Avama Jewellers on Park Street.

Dhruv Jhaveri, director at Madanji Meghraj Jewellers on Ashutosh Mukherjee Road, noted that jewellery has moved from symbolising status to underlining personality. “Traditionally, men’s jewellery in India symbolised status — thick chains and wedding rings. Today it symbolises individuality. Younger buyers are influenced by global fashion and want jewellery that feels contemporary and wearable daily,” he said.

“Contemporary fashion rejects rigid ideas of masculinity in favour of personal expression. As a result, jewellery has become a vehicle for individual identity and emotion, not just decoration,” added Pratik Dugar of Indian Gem & Jewellery Creation on Camac Street.

When did the shift begin? 

Several factors have contributed to the transformation in men’s jewellery trends since 2010. Menswear has evolved from strictly business and formalwear to fusion and self-expressive, gender-fluid styles, with bolder colours and designs gaining prominence.

“Even the lapels and cufflinks chosen today are more distinctive. Men are selecting motifs, gemstones and finishes that reflect their interests, profession or personality rather than simply adhering to dress codes,” explained Bharti Bangur, owner of Bharti Bangur Fine Jewels in Alipore.

According to Yogesh Soni, director at Punamchand Jewellers in Kankurgachi, the transition began in metro cities between 2014 and 2016, before becoming mainstream over the past five years. It was backed by digital fashion exposure and the growth of gender-fluid aesthetics. Kajaria echoed this view, adding that social media and influencers between 2015 and 2020 played a pivotal role in popularising bold, distinctive pieces.

Jhaveri observed that a new generation entering the workforce seeks accessories suited to office, travel and social life. They are not wearing jewelleries just for ceremonies. This has fuelled demand for lighter, versatile pieces. “Items like beaded bracelets, bold chains, mixed metals and meaningful pendants are regarded as core accessories for everyday fashion,” said Dugar.

What defines men’s jewellery trends now? 

Retailers in Kolkata point to layered chains of varied lengths, often paired with bold pendants, as a key trend. Signet and statement rings, whether minimal or bold, remain central. These rings are frequently engraved or customised. There is also a growing demand for sleek pieces such as thin bracelets and necklaces for daily wear, office and travel. Increasingly, jewellery is transcending gender labels, with versatile designs worn irrespective of gender.

“Styling is becoming more curated — men now match jewellery to outfit tones and necklines rather than wearing the same pieces everywhere,” said Jhaveri.

"Jewellery is no longer a traditional add-on for men. The emphasis is on versatility — one piece that works across occasions," added Arvind Soni of Mahabir Danwar Jewellers.

Breaking down trends for 2026, Kajaria noted that meaningful pendants featuring symbols or engravings are particularly popular. Earrings have become a staple of men’s fashion. They wear studs or drop earrings on one ear only. Ear cuffs are also gaining popularity. Thick Cuban link and rope-style chains are trending, as are oversized, textured signet rings. Mixing gold, silver and black metals is another striking feature of the current trends.

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