The way a fish is sliced can make or break a dish. And in Bengali cuisine, cutting fish isn’t just a prep step; it’s a ritual passed down through generations.
The Bengali cut is a departure from the Western boneless fillets. It is about flavour, fat, and a deep understanding of how each part of the fish behaves in a curry.
Whether it’s rui, katla, or the prized ilish, the fish is cut with purpose into gada, peti, lyaja, and muro, each with a specific place in the Bengali culinary universe.
PS: The fish eggs, fat, and bile (pitti) are carefully removed. The process of eliminating the bile requires expert precision. If ruptured, it can cause the fish to turn bitter.
Gada
The gada, or upper back portion, is thick, meaty, and holds its shape well. It’s ideal for frying or slow-cooked gravies, where you want the fish to soak in the flavours without crumbling. Gada is often the first pick for auspicious occasions. This is the ring piece with the skin on the sides. This piece often holds the eggs. The cut can be made from the mid-section of the fish to the tail.
Dishes to try: Shorshe Jhol, Doi Machh
Peti
Ask any true Bengali, and they will tell you that the peti is the crown jewel. The fatty belly portion releases oil into the curry, adding a rich taste and texture. The rectangular piece has the skin on one side, and the bones are all aligned. This piece is convenient for those who cannot debone fish. It’s perfect for dishes like macher kalia or tel jhol. Some even argue that the ilish peti is the best part of the fish.
Dishes to try: Bhaja, Machh Bhapa, Paturi
Lyaja
The tail-end, or lyaja, might look lean and bony, but it has its own charm. Often cooked with vegetables in a light machher jhol, it’s the piece that novice fish eaters might be afraid of. It is less glamorous but more meaty — and bony.
Dishes to try: Ilish Lej Bhorta
Muro
The fish head, or muro, is a taste enhancer for some authentic Bengali dishes. Used in legendary dishes like muri ghonto or muro diye dal, it brings intensity and depth. It adds the much-loved fishy note to dishes. The muro can either be kept whole, made into half or into four pieces according to the needs of the recipe. It is also considered sacred. So you might spot them in elaborate birthday lunches and aiburobhaat spreads.
Dishes to try: Muri Ghonto, Muro diye Shaak, Kochu Shaak with Ilish Maccher Matha
With Bengalis moving to other cities, this cutting technique also migrated. In Delhi’s CR Park, fish sellers now sell fish as gada-peti mix, ilish peti, or rui muro. In Bangalore, Bengali customers at HAL market or Russell Market ask for their preferred cuts, and vendors there have learnt the lingo.