In pictures: Food pop-up revives Raja Nala’s ancient ‘Hitahara’ recipes in Kolkata

On the occasion of World Sanskrit Day and Shravani Purnima, Paushtik Life hosted a unique 12-course lunch in Kolkata inspired by ‘Pakadarpanam’, an ancient Sanskrit text on culinary arts authored by Raja Nala. He was known for his unmatched skills in cooking and chariot racing. Raja Nala was believed to have been blessed with boons from Indra, Agni, Varuna and Yama. 

The special menu, curated by Paushtik Life founders Ruth and Sudip Chattopadhyay in collaboration with independent researcher and writer Dipankar Dasgupta, stayed true to the original recipes, using no mustard oil, chilli, potato, tomato or onion, instead relying on ghee, rock salt, fig, seasonal organic vegetables, palm jaggery and honey.

The experience was designed to take diners back to a time when food was considered a part of holistic living. Ruth Chattopadhyay said, “Getting back to the roots and cooking without refined salt, sugar, potatoes, tomatoes, mustard, etc., can be difficult in terms of bringing the taste our palates are used to. But then we have received good feedback from the guests. They said they did not miss these ingredients."

Sudip Chattopadhyay added, “We aim to promote sustainable eating and not just organic food. Sustainable eating should not be expensive. Through this food pop-up, we wanted to show that getting back to the roots and eating clean does not have to be expensive and complicated. We are not only showcasing the food and culture here, but also the enriching history of our roots.”

The courses unfolded like a sensory journey. It began with Fol-Pushpa-Paniyam, a fragrant beverage made from the juice of figs, banana stem and flowers like mohua with honey, setting a refreshing tone. Madhukheera, kheer sweetened with honey, offered a gentle sweetness, while Sudhyanam – plain hand-pounded rice – provided a grounding base. Unfamiliar yet captivating flavours emerged in Kurpatak Falam, bitter brinjal from the Brihati plant, and Pounanarbipatra-bajja, stir-fried Punarnava leaves, known for their medicinal properties. 

The delicate Oudumbor-Byanjanam, a fig curry, contrasted beautifully with Kumudkanda-Chingat-Ghonta, a hearty mix of waterlily stem and prawns. The comforting Taharjyannam – mutton khichuri – was balanced by Mudugbataka, crisp moong dal and kulthi dal fritters.

The sweet end of the meal celebrated ancient indulgence with Sahakarableha, a mango linctus, Bannispab Laddukam, barley laddoos, and Nabagodumchurna-Payasam, a broken wheat pudding. Each dish, rooted in the ‘Hitahara’ principle of beneficial eating, was a reminder of how Ayurveda emphasised harmony between body, mind and environment.

For Dipankar Dasgupta, the menu was also an act of preservation. “Inspired by the auspicious occasion of Shravani Purnima, the holy appearance day of Lord Balarama, the god of agriculture, and World Sanskrit Day, Paushtik Life is hosting this exclusive lunch to promote healthy meals and to create awareness,” he said.

The event was not just about eating, but also about learning, with talks on Vedic culinary art, sustainable agriculture and the cultural history of food. By the end of the afternoon, diners left with more than a full stomach; they carried the taste of heritage, a deeper respect for indigenous ingredients, and the realisation that the past still has much to teach about how we should eat today.