Bargarh town in western Odisha has transformed into a living stage as Dhanu Yatra, billed as the world’s largest open-air theatre, brings the Krishna Leela to life with the mythological king Kansa holding sway over the area.
A man wearing a crown rides an elephant through the town, barking orders at passers-by. With an imperious wave of his hand, he stops a truck speeding down the highway that cuts across Bargarh. The driver is pulled up for crossing the speed limit and asked to pay a fine, which he does meekly. Government officers present themselves at his durbar and submit their report cards, watched by amused onlookers.
The scenes are part of the Dhanu Yatra enactment, where the character of Kansa, the ruler of Mathura in Hindu mythology, becomes the most celebrated and colourful presence in the town. For 11 days, Bargarh turns into Mathura, with the enactment of Lord Krishna’s life unfolding across streets, fields and public spaces.
During the festival, Kansa’s word is law and his court can summon even top government officials. Former chief minister Biju Patnaik is said to have once appeared before Kansa’s court following his orders. Deeply rooted in western Odisha’s folklore, Dhanu Yatra remains a powerful cultural symbol for the region.
Chief minister Mohan Charan Majhi appeared before the court of the demon king on Tuesday night, the seventh day of the Dhanu Yatra. Riding an elephant, Majhi reached the durbar of Kansa, who sought an answer on the steps taken for the development of Mathura Nagari (Bargarh). As per the king’s order, the chief minister presented a report card outlining development plans for the district.
Majhi informed the mythical king that his government has already launched 123 projects worth ₹1,362 crore for Bargarh district. He also said foundation stones had been laid for 85 projects worth ₹980.58 crore, of which 38 projects costing ₹382.26 crore have been inaugurated.
The chief minister highlighted welfare measures for women, including the woman-centric Subhadra Yojana under which ₹10,000 is given to a woman in a year in two instalments. He also spoke about paddy procurement and said Odisha would witness industrial development in the coming days.
Majhi further informed the king that the state government is trying to secure Unesco recognition for Dhanu Yatra and plans to construct a Ranga Mahal at a cost of ₹12.8 crore. He announced a festival grant of ₹1.5 crore and stipends for 200 artists.
Bargarh has been decked up for the Dhanu Yatra, which began on December 24 and will conclude on January 3.
The 11-day cultural and theatrical extravaganza will end with the death of Kansa at the hands of Krishna, his nephew, symbolising the triumph of good over evil. What makes Kansa the toast of the festival, however, is his larger-than-life persona, which people admire and even try to imitate.