Off-White
In the first show since Virgil Abloh’s death, “Spaceship Earth” saw the likes of Bella Hadid, Kaia Gerber, Cindy Crawford, Gigi Hadid, Serena Williams, Kendall Jenner showed the last collection that Abloh had designed for the brand. The collection showed a mix of the label’s ready-to-wear along with a new high-fashion-meets-couture line that was conceived by Abloh and completed by collaborators.
Balenciaga
Demna, drawing inspiration from his own life as a refugee, paid a moving tribute to the time of war with a show conceived as a snowstorm to recreate the difficult journey that refugees often have to undertake. The models were often seen holding disposable bags that were meant to showcase how refugees would have to flee their homeland with whatever little belonging they could gather. Rumours of an Apple collaboration were rife as invites were sent on old iPhone 6 phones while an Apple logo was also spotted on the runway.
Dior
In collaboration with feminist artist Mariella Bettineschi, Dior presented ‘The Next Era’, which started with a surprising bodysuit that regulated body temperature. The inspiration for this collection ranged from Aphrodite and Athena to iconic feminist movements. Technical knitwear and waterproof fabric also found a place in the collection. The showstopper was mom-to-be Rihanna, who entered wearing the brand’s lingerie with elan.
Chanel
“Devoting the entire collection to tweed is a tribute. We followed the footsteps of Gabrielle Chanel along the River Tweed, to imagine tweeds in the colours of this landscape. Like that of a long pink coat mottled with blue and purple, or a burgundy suit with a delicate gold shimmer. This is what Gabrielle Chanel would do on her walks through the Scottish countryside: she would gather ferns and bouquets of flowers to inspire the local artisans for the tones she wanted,” said Virginie Viard in show note. Presented at the Grand Palais Éphémère, the tribute to tweed saw a mix of feminine silhouettes with masculine, oversized elements that added an element of chicness as well as a carefree spirit to the looks. The colours were a mood with Viard even drawing inspiration from Gabrielle Chanel’s love affair with the Duke of Westminster, whose jackets she made her own. “There’s nothing sexier than wearing the clothes of the person you love,” added Viard. The collection is yet another affirmation of why nobody can do tweed like Chanel!
Givenchy
Luxury, utility and great tailoring were combined together by Matthew M. Williams to present a high-fashion take on couture. Graphic jersey T-shirts, practical layers, an influence of athleisure and craftsmanship found their way to the stage. The showcase also included a new sneaker line to build on the extension of their footwear line.
Valentino
Pierpaolo Piccioli chose a very specific shade of pink to take to the runway. According to reports, the designer chose the same colour to be able to focus only on finer details of the silhouette and design. Eighty-one looks for men and women made up the collection where pink was used to dissociate its meaning from the usual adjectives that the colour warrants. Suits, overcoats, bralettes, bubble dresses — the glorious pink had everything in it.