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Gyarani — a borar jhol recipe that carries the taste of undivided Bengal

Food researcher and historian Dipankar Dasgupta shares a cherished family recipe brought from Pabna to Kolkata after Partition

Some recipes survive because families refuse to let them disappear. Food researcher and historian Dipankar Dasgupta shares a recipe for Gyarani, a dish passed down through generations of his family. This delicate borar jhol travelled from Pabna in East Pakistan to Kolkata during Partition, carrying with it memories of home, summer lunches and togetherness.

Prepared with motor (white pea) dal fritters simmered in a light posto-based broth, Gyarani was once a showstopper of leisurely family meals cooked by Dasgupta’s grandmother, Tarubala Dasgupta, whom he fondly called Babuma. Over the years, this summer recipe found its way from grandmother to daughters and grandchildren, preserving a taste of undivided Bengal in every spoonful. 

Ingredients

• Motor dal (yellow split peas): 200–250g
• Poppy seed paste (posto): 40–50g
• Whole dried red chillies: 2
• Green chillies: 2–3 (optional)
• Bay leaves: 2
• Mustard seeds: ¼ tsp
• Radhuni (wild celery seeds): ¼ tsp
• Ginger paste: 2 tsp
• Sugar: 1 ½ tsp
• Salt: To taste
• Mustard oil: For frying and tempering
• Ghee: 1 tsp

Method

• Soak the motor dal overnight. Drain and grind into a fine, thick paste. Add a pinch of salt and whisk until light and fluffy
• Heat mustard oil in a wok and fry small round fritters until golden. Keep aside
• In a clean wok, heat 1½ tbsp mustard oil and add dried red chillies, bay leaves, mustard seeds and radhuni
• Once aromatic, pour in 400ml of water along with salt and sugar. Bring to a boil
• Add the poppy seed paste and gently place the fried boras into the broth
• Simmer on low heat for two minutes
• Add green chillies, ginger paste and ghee. Simmer for another 30 seconds and switch off the flame
• Let the dish cool slightly before serving with steamed white rice

— My Kolkata Web Desk