Cosmetic con: Why makeup knock-offs found in Kolkata markets can be a costly affair

In Kolkata’s bustling markets — places like New Market and Hatibagan — rows of stalls sell big-name cosmetics knock-offs, from fake MAC lipsticks to HUDA Beauty lookalikes. Over the years, these places have become hotspots for affordable cosmetics, which are versions of high-end makeup and skincare products without the luxury price tag. With Chaitra Sale on, the prices are even more lucrative.

But, what about the underlying risks of using cheaper chemical formulation? How do these affect the skin? With these questions in mind, My Kolkata spoke to skin experts in the city to find out more.

Dupes vs knock-offs

Dupes, both makeup and skincare, are not the same as knock-offs. Cosmetic dupes are products that mimic the formulation and functionality, sometimes even packaging, of products from luxury or imported brands. Many homegrown brands have products that offer the same makeup look or skincare benefit but at lower prices, often because they are manufactured locally thus reducing import tariffs. For example, Makeup Revolution Ceramide Swirl Lip offers the same look and feel as Givenchy Rose Perfecto Liquid lipstick, and Minimalist is known to provide alternatives from skincare brand The Ordinary. In Kolkata markets, one can also find small, locally made products under brand names like Kiss Beauty, Me-on, Comy Melody, and more, which are often of an inferior quality.

Counterfeits or knock-offs, like the ones found in New Market and Hatibagan, on the other hand, are illegal imitations of high-end brands. While the packaging and logos of the branded products are duplicated with minimal alterations, the product inside is of an inferior quality. Some popular counterfeit products available in the Kolkata markets include lipsticks, eyeshadows, bronzer, blush, nail polish, primer, and more, which replicate the logo and packaging of brands like MAC, HUDA Beauty, NARS, etc.

Are the dupes and counterfeit cosmetics trustworthy?

While dupes from bigger, popular Indian brands can be trusted, skin experts strongly warn against using counterfeit products sold on the streets of the city.

Dr Sanjay Agarwal, a dermatologist at Calcutta Medical Research Institute (CMRI), Kolkata, warns consumers of the silent dangers of using counterfeit cosmetics. “Counterfeits are not safe in cosmetic products, no matter how beautiful the effect is at first,” he says. While these products may mimic the look and feel of high-end brands, their contents often remain a mystery, and thus potentially harmful.

What are the side-effects of using knock-offs?

The long-term side effects of using such products can be alarming. According to Agarwal, “At best, they do not work, but at worst, they are culpable of allergic reactions, skin irritation, rashes, pigmentation, and even in the worst case, scar production on the body.” Unlike approved cosmetic lines that undergo rigorous dermatological testing, fakes often contain unregulated or banned substances, increasing the risk of long-term skin damage.

The concern isn’t limited to just creams or foundations. Even products that don’t seem to come directly in contact with the skin, like nail polish, can cause damage. “Repetitive ownership [of products like nail polish] normally leads to hand-to-face contact, which could be a source of allergens or harmful chemicals,” Agarwal explains. Ingredients like formaldehyde and toluene, common in substandard nail products, are known irritants. Prolonged exposure may result in contact dermatitis, a skin condition marked by redness, itching, and swelling. Dr Surajit Gorai, MD, Dermatologist, Apollo Hospitals also points out risks related to fake lipsticks containing harmful ingredients. “Traces of the product can be ingested, and in the long term, any heavy metals present can cause poisoning. If the lead and mercury are not used in correct proportions it can be a problem in future,” he says.

How does it affect children and teens?

Teens and children have sensitive skin, which has a higher chance of being damaged by the use of fake cosmetics. According to Dr Asharbh Raman, MD Dermatology and senior resident faculty at DPU Super Specialty Hospital, Pune, counterfeits can contain “steroids or heavy metals”, which can cause “hormonal disruptions.” Further, it can cause acneiform eruptions — skin conditions that resemble acne vulgaris — as well as dyspigmentation, increased hair growth, worsening of pre-existing skin conditions, and allergic contact dermatitis.

How to identify these fakes?

While there is not always a definite way to know if cosmetics are fake, Raman says that there are clues that can be helpful — like extremely low prices, unrealistic discounts, poor quality packaging and printing, and spelling mistakes. “Additionally, one should look for missing batch numbers or expiry dates, no ingredient list or safety certification,” he adds.