In pictures: Ajrakh to Akola, Bagh to Batik: An A-Z guide to indigenous Indian fabric patterns

Most of us, at some point while shopping, have pointed towards a fabric pattern, perfectly pleated on a shop rack, and confidently asked the shopkeeper, “Dada, can you show me the Akola print?” only to be corrected: “That’s not Akola, didi, that’s Nandana.” Another ‘facepalm’ situation.

India’s textile traditions are rich, regional and incredibly diverse — but to the untrained eye, many patterns can look confusingly similar. For example, your enthusiasm knows no bounds while picking up Ajrakh kurtis, only to later realise they are actually Bagh.

Fashion designer Sujata Biswas said, “Recognising and understanding these crafts isn’t about memorising a textbook; it's about listening to the incredible stories behind it and the pure heart and love that our artisans weave into every single piece.”

Here’s a quick cheat sheet to help you identify some popular indigenous fabrics…

Ikat: The fabric that looks intentionally ‘out of focus’

To identify authentic Ikat, always take a look at the backside of the fabric, as it looks virtually identical to the front. Also the geometric or floral patterns have distinct ‘blurred’ or ‘feathered’ edges.

Bandhani: Tiny dots, big drama

A real Bandhani will have tiny dots spread across the fabric, often arranged in circles, grids or flowing designs. It is a traditional ‘tie-dye’ fabric art where small portions of cloth are tied with thread before being dipped into dye, creating tiny dotted patterns.

Kalamkari: When fabric turns into a storytelling canvas

The simplest way to identify Kalamkari is the motifs of mythological scenes, floral vines, temple-inspired artworks and the colours are mostly indigo, rust, black, beige and mustard.

Ajrakh: Geometry, symmetry and indigo magic

Ajrakh is characterised by complex geometric symmetry and indigo-madder palettes. The motifs are perfectly aligned in grid-like patterns.

Bagh: Bold florals and earthy charm

Often confused with Ajrakh, Bagh is another traditional block-printing craft, but its visual language is quite different. While Ajrakh is defined by intricate geometric symmetry and indigo madder colour palettes, Bagh is recognised by its bold floral, paisley and folk inspired motifs, traditionally printed in rich red and black pigments on a light background.

Sanganeri: Delicate blooms

The simplest way to identify a Sanganeri is with its unsymmetrical ‘no linear rule’ floral or botanical motifs made on clean, crisp white, cream, or pastel backdrop.

Batik: The artsy fabric

Batik is the easiest pattern to identify due to its slightly abstract, crackled designs, almost overlapping and no space — like a paint spreading on a fabric.

Akola: Tiny motifs and quiet old-world charm

When you see smaller, repetitive motifs arranged very neatly — often geometric or tiny floral patterns with lots of symmetry, it is usually Akola. Traditionally created using natural dyes and resist-printing techniques, the designs often feature geometric forms, delicate florals and understated compositions that lend the fabric a quiet elegance.

Nandana: Folk-inspired patterns

Almost similar to Akola, Nanadana is primarily a traditional folk-style motif that feels older and more decorative.

Pipad: Bright and large textile

Pipad fabrics usually stand out because of their large and bright floral block prints covered all over the fabric, almost festive, instantly catching your eye. Classic colours include maroon, black, indigo blue, ochre yellow, and dark browns.

Leheriya: Wave-like stripes

The pattern of Leheriya is defined by its fluid, diagonal, wave-like stripes that run across the fabric. The visual look mimics rippling water currents or shifting desert dunes.