Barrackpore biryani, in recent years, has earned a devoted fan following far beyond the cantonment town. Foodies from Kolkata and other nearby towns often drive down to Barrackpore just for a plate of Dada Boudi Biryani or D Bapi’s biryani. While it may share the roots with Kolkata’s biryani, the two are distinct in flavour, texture and technique. On World Biryani Day, My Kolkata explores what makes the Barrackpore biryani a completely different genre.
A bolder spice story
While owners of the two iconic restaurants gatekeep their recipes, patrons say the biryani in Barrackpore is more of a rustic version of the Kolkata biryani. It leans towards heavier spice and large portions of meat.
According to food and film writer Poorna Banerjee, the primary differences lie in the ingredients, spice profile and cooking process.
“Kolkata biryani differs significantly from Barrackpore in the way it uses spices, the ingredients, and the meat and rice used. While Kolkata biryani depends more on green cardamom and mace for its delicate aroma, Barrackpore biryani draws much of its character from cubeb pepper, or what is locally known as kabab chini, and cloves”, she said. These spices create a deeper, more robust flavour and often give the meat its darker appearance.
She believes the recipe evolved to balance local preferences with the generous use of spices, resulting in a biryani that is more robust without losing its finesse.
Richer, softer and made to be mashed
But differences do not end with the spice. Banerjee also points to a distinctive serving ritual of the Barrackpore biryani.
“Barrackpore biryani also adds an extra step of adding a layer of mutton fat on the biryani after the handi is opened and before they start serving, lending the rice an extra layer of moisture that leads to ease of mashing with one's hand, to make a dawla (clump)," she said.
She added that “the rice is extra long but holds its shape until touched because of the twice-cooking process of biryani, further anointed with mutton fat before being fluffed up.”
The result is an exceptionally soft meat, moist potatoes and rice that stays fluffy yet comes together effortlessly.
Where to head for the real experience
When asked where people should go for an authentic taste, Banerjee picks the top two places.
"The only two places I recommend are Dada Boudi and D Bapi," she said.
Chef Rahul Arora also believes Dada Boudi remains the benchmark, but insists it should be eaten fresh. “If you want to relish Dada Boudi, you must eat it there. That biryani is only a bomb when hot. I love it,” he said.
Arora describes it as “a richer, slightly flashy cousin of the Kolkata biryani.” He added, “The meat is quite generous and fatty, not like the mass appeasement size in Kolkata biryani. The flavour is bolder and more like a walima biryani, like it's made to celebrate and not eat daily.”