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Kolkata’s markets were abuzz on Thursday morning with the arrival of the first consignment of Padma ilish from Bangladesh, just days before Durga Puja. The first lot of 37.46 tonnes crossed the Benapole-Petrapole land route late Tuesday night and reached city markets early Thursday. The first lot of hilsa was sold out quickly at Manicktala, Lake Market, and Gariahat, despite premium prices, marking the beginning of a season that blends culinary nostalgia with cross-border trade politics.
The export began late Tuesday night after Bangladesh’s commerce ministry issued permits to 37 exporters to send hilsa to India. The total approved quantity is 1,200 tonnes for the period between September 16 and October 5. The decision followed weeks of speculation over whether hilsa would cross the border this year, given the political situation in Bangladesh and concerns over the declining catch in the Padma and Meghna rivers.
On Friday morning, at Lake Market, Gariahat and Manicktala markets, hilsa weighing around a kilo was being sold at roughly Rs 1,800 per kg, and fish above 1.5 kg were going for as much as Rs 2,200-2,500 per kg.
This year, the export price of hilsa from Bangladesh has increased to $12.50 per kg from $10 last year. The hike, combined with transport costs, customs duties and margins, has pushed up the final consumer price in Kolkata.
Retailers believe that the peak buying will happen closer to Saptami and Ashtami when families start planning their Puja feasts. “We are expecting lots of buyers during the weekend. Prices aren’t too high compared to last year, but it is still early in the season. The real rush starts a few days before Puja,” said Pappu, a fish seller at Manicktala.
The arrival of Padma ilish is also viewed as a gesture of trade diplomacy. Hilsa is a sensitive and prized commodity in Bangladesh, and exports are often restricted to protect the domestic supply during peak consumption seasons. This year’s decision to allow exports, despite lower catch, is being read as an attempt to maintain trade relations with India ahead of the festive season. Chandan Pandit, a Gariahat-based stock analyst and fish lover, offered a more pragmatic view. “While we see it as a festive gift, it is more like Bangladesh needs to export their ilish. And this is an opportunity for them to begin trade with India. So it is really not for our advantage, but for them,” he said.
On the consumer side, the excitement was palpable. “Just like Durga Puja is an emotion for Bengalis, so is hilsa from the Padma. This year, considering the political situation in Bangladesh, I had given up hope of getting Padma ilish. But when I heard that hilsa would arrive before Puja, I was really happy. I’ll go to the market myself and buy one on Ashtami, no matter the price,” said Sourav Sengupta, a businessman from north Kolkata.
