Imarti, or Amriti as Bengalis call it, is one of those sweets that Kolkata has humbly accepted and made its own. It is not a Jalebi, though the two may look similar to the casual eye. With a deep orange hue and intricate flower-like pattern, this fried fritter dipped in sugar syrup has its origins in the royal kitchens of emperor Jahangir, where Persian dessert techniques inspired this delicacy. Today, from Jaunpur in Uttar Pradesh, where it has earned a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, to the lanes of Kolkata, Imarti holds a distinct place among India’s beloved mithai.
A royal legacy from Jahangir’s kitchen
Historical records trace Imarti to the Mughal period, when it was created in the imperial kitchens as a refinement of Middle Eastern desserts like zulabiya, the ancestor of the modern Jalebi. In the 17th century, Jahangir’s royal chefs are said to have experimented with local ingredients like urad dal to give the sweet a denser, richer form. Over time, the confection travelled to north India, finding a permanent home in Jaunpur, where sweet makers like Beniram’s (still operating since 1865) perfected the craft. Imarti was served at royal feasts, festive occasions and even as prasad in temples and during Roza iftar.
In November 2023, Jaunpur Imarti received its GI tag, officially recognising the sweet’s historical and cultural significance. The registration notes that Imarti from Jaunpur is made with green urad dal, desi ghee and raw sugar, following the same recipe that has been passed down through generations.
Imarti vs Jalebi: A tale of texture and taste
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Though both are spiral-shaped sweets soaked in sugar syrup, their similarities end there. Jalebi is made with maida (refined flour) and sometimes a hint of curd for fermentation, which gives it a tangy flavour and crisp, glassy texture. Imarti, on the other hand, uses urad dal paste as its base, resulting in a soft, chewy bite and a mildly sweet taste. It is fried in desi ghee instead of oil and soaked in a lighter sugar syrup infused with cardamom, rose essence and saffron.
While Jalebi is golden and thin, Imarti is thicker, deep orange and designed with concentric floral loops — a pattern that skilled halwais master. Each piece is heavier and more filling; a single serving (about 60 grams) packs roughly 200-220 calories.
Ingredients and the art of making
Authentic Imarti begins with soaking urad dal and rice overnight. The mixture is ground to a smooth, fluffy batter with a touch of saffron and rose essence. The batter is poured into a cloth with a small hole and piped into hot ghee in circular, flower-like designs. Each Imarti is fried slowly on both sides till crisp, then immersed in sugar syrup flavoured with cardamom and lemon juice.
The result is a sweet that gleams like amber, aromatic with ghee and spice, and holds a soft, juicy core under its delicate crust. Unlike Jalebi, which is crisp throughout, Imarti’s charm lies in its softness and balance — sweet but not cloying, rich but not oily. It is often served warm, sometimes paired with buttermilk in northern winters.
Where to try in Kolkata
Kolkata’s sweet shops and breakfast joints have long included Imarti alongside Jalebi. Stop by Tewari Brothers in Burrabazar or Nasta on Manicktala Main Road for fresh batches made in pure ghee. Gupta Brothers and Bhims in south Kolkata also serve their own versions, while some old-school eateries around College Street still fry Amriti early in the morning for breakfast crowds. Each piece is priced between Rs 10 to 20.