Walk into any café or pub in Kolkata today, and you might find ‘Gondhoraj-infused cocktails’ or ‘Kaffir lime-infused mocktails’ on the menu, often used interchangeably. But the truth is, the two citrus varieties are entirely different in origin and flavour. “Bengalis, who are deeply engaged in multi-cuisine culture, often confuse Kaffir lime with Gondhoraj Lebu. While both have a strong aromatic note, their personalities in food are worlds apart,” said food anthropologist and chef Amrita Bhattacharya.
Two limes, two worlds
The Kaffir lime, known in culinary texts as Makrut Lime or Thai Lime, traces its roots to Southeast Asia, mainly Thailand and Indonesia. Its scientific name, Citrus hystrix, hints at its thick, knobbly rind and deep green leaves. “Kaffir Lime’s juice is rarely used in cooking. It’s the leaves and zest that lend the bright, citrusy perfume to Thai curries, soups and curry pastes. The juice itself is quite sharp and slightly bitter,” Bhattacharya explained.
The Gondhoraj Lebu, on the other hand, is Bengal’s own fragrant treasure. Believed to be a local variant of the Rangpur lime, it grows across south Bengal and parts of Bangladesh. Its oblong shape and thin rind make it easily recognisable. “The magic of Gondhoraj lies in its smell. Even if the juice is lesser, the aroma is enough to lift an entire meal,” says Bhattacharya. From Panta Bhaat and dal to a simple plate of bhaja and rice, the fragrance of Gondhoraj lebu adds an instant freshness that appeals to Bengali nostalgia and appetite alike.
Beyond the Gondhoraj
(L) The Shatkora Lebu and (R) The Kagzi Lebu
Bengali households also swear by other lemons, each with a distinct personality. The Kagzi Lebu, or Key Lime, is sharper and more acidic, used mainly in sherbet or fish dishes. The Shatkora Lebu, a prized variety from Sylhet, is chunkier, used in pickles and meat curries. “Shatkora has a bold, bittersweet flavour and thick rind that softens when cooked with mutton or fish. But Gondhoraj is never cooked — it’s too delicate. It belongs on the plate just before eating, not in the pan,” Bhattacharya explained.
The power of aroma
In Bengali cuisine, aroma often precedes taste. “Lemon leaves, coriander, kasuri methi, each adds its own freshness. But the role of Gondhoraj is unlike any other. It doesn’t preserve or balance spice; it revives,” Bhattacharya explained. And that, perhaps, explains why this green citrus fruit continues to hold a cult status in Bengal’s kitchens — even as the global flavours of Kaffir Lime find their way into the city’s fine-dining menus.