The Mountain Table unfolded like a story passed down through generations — whispered in the steam of broths, the crackle of pork skin, the funk of fermentation. Hosted at Glenburn Penthouse, this two-day culinary event was curated by Gormei chefs Ishita Rai Dewan and Chef Katherine Lim. The duo transported diners from the lofty lounges of Kolkata to the kitchens of Kalimpong, Darjeeling, Sikkim, and Yunnan. My Kolkata dropped in on July 5 to experience the eight-course dinner paired with Hapusa gin cocktails.
The evening began with a Huangjiu Spritzer, a Hakka rice wine rooted in over 2,000 years of tradition. Made with glutinous rice from Shillong and yeasts from Darjeeling, Kalimpong and China. The aroma and taste of the Hakka rice wine, crafted by chef Katherine Lim using her heirloom recipe, was reminiscent of caramel with soft notes of toasted rice and a mellow sweetness that lingered on the palate.
The Mountain Platter followed with a sensory mosaic. Chives pakoras crackled with herbaceous zest, while slices of Kalimpong cheese brought sharpness. Pickled bamboo shoots and fermented Dalle chilli chutneys came alive on the tongue with tingling sourness, garlic punch, and the citrusy buzz of timur pepper.
Then came the Pahadi Taco by chef Ishita, a simple preparation of soft buckwheat pancakes with smoked mutton and topped with a gundruk dalle salsa and house-made chilli oil. The flavour was a tug-of-war between earthy nuttiness, meaty smoke, and the sour heat of fermented greens and fiery chillies. Chef Katherine’s signature Roast Pork Belly was a standout. Glazed to perfection with a blistered crackling, the pork was soft beneath its crisp armour. The roasted fat, spicy and earthy flavours, and smouldering chilli made the aroma arresting!
Fing Salad by chef Ishita, up next, offered a light interlude. Glass noodles tangled with monsoon greens, green chillies and seasonal vegetables with Kalimpong cheese, tasted fresh, and ever-so-slightly spicy. Then the chef presented the Mountain Streams soup with its umami-forward broth built on mud crab and prawn. There was a warming flavour of ginger-garlic oil and fragrant jimbu. The nutmeg and timur lent it spice and citrus lift.
The Barley Risotto brought comfort and complexity. Cooked pearl barley released a nutty sweetness, while fried oyster mushrooms coated in timur added crunch and a peppery sting. The Beer-Stewed Duck was steeped in beer and slow-cooked with aromatics. The duck was tender, and its aroma was rich and malty. It was served with Jasmine rice and chef Katherine’s stir-fried Morning Glory with Furu.
Dessert was a revelation. Paoluda, made with sago, black rice, coconut milk and condensed milk, brought textures and stories together. There were freshly diced mangoes for freshness, ice cream for indulgence, and crispy bread for crunch. It tasted tropical and nostalgic.
The Gormei Mountain Table traced the paths of culture and craft. Argha Sen, founder, Gormei explained, “We’ve taken the high road to the spirit of the eastern Himalayas. Celebrating the eclectic mix of Nepali, Sikkimese, Bhutanese and colonial culinary traditions of the Darjeeling-Kalimpong region, and cutting across the Chinese Himalayan regions of Yunnan and Tibet, it’s the mountains on a platter.”